philbey

a mate has a 300kw 1600 and he's paranoid about some tyre-changer backing it into a pole when he gasses it and loops it. simple fix - multiple ecu maps on a controller. #4 is Chooch-mode, fuel and ignition cut at 1500 hundred revs. Set to chooch mode, unplug controller, take it with ya.... enough revs to get to 60 to check the wheel alignment and balance!

Tombstone, best movie of all times, is loaded with favourites: "Yes, but there's just something about him. Something around the eyes, I don't know, reminds me of... me. No. I'm sure of it, I hate him. "

Wow felix that's pretty bloody good. I run 98 octane, that's a must for me because the comp is high, I have been forced to run Caltex 95 this week and damn does it ping a lot.

Yes cranks are the same, you could most likely bore a 4K out for 5K pistons. Probably easier to just get 4K pistons from mahle, or alternatively build a 5K block. Great racecar by the way, got any other pics? LOL snot beat me too it, should refresh my page.

I've done the exact same thing Jono suggested and used a felt tip white/black for the tracers. You can get the small (3m) Narva rolls in the full range of colours with tracer, but nobody ever carries it on the shelf. Your local auto store could likely order them in though.

Is it definitely a torsion bar? Because the earlier rolla's had coil tension springs.

Sand casting is definitely the easiest option, if you have access to a cnc, you machine up the pattern. Or, even better, with the cost of 3d printing coming right down you could have a pattern printed. Even wax printed and investment cast wouldn't be out of the question. Considering fitting a head to a different block requires relocating head bolts, water jacket ports, cam guides, oil feeds etc, and that's before you look at combustion chamber suitability, I still maintain the cast head is the easier option.

I wouldn't bother, that motor has obviously been cooked if it's cracked that bad, even with a resleeve you may still have issues. New block should be easily sourced for 50-100 bucks

I wouldn't bother, that motor has obviously been cooked if it's cracked that bad, even with a resleeve you may still have issues. New block should be easily sourced for 50-100 bucks

Yeh just use the same as 4k torque. Lifter preload has nothing to do with the rocker post torque settings though.

I use an app on my phone as my fuel gauge is crook Cammed twin 40 dellortos. Average fuel consumption 9.61, best is 8.74 and worst is 14.18 The economy comes from a properly tuned set of carbs, and also very high comp/good volumetric efficiency. Also, the driving I do closely represents the standard for combined driving, some open road high speed, not many lights or congested traffic.

ACL/Mahle supply 20, 40 and 60 over pistons for 5K's, I would chase them in the first instance for the 4K stuff as well.

pmp16, I had very little trouble with the 5K build. The dellortos went in fine, they tuned up fine and have held the tune for 2 years. Biggest issue was the 8cc pistons from ACL bumped the compression ratio right up but I got lucky with the Camshaft I bought being particularly large. You'd need to go with a pretty big cam for the same build, otherwise the alternative would be to take some meat out of the head. 68kw at the rear wheels. I've since had the manifold port matched and I'll put an MSD programmable 6al on eventually and hopefully push to the 100 horsepower mark!! Tojo, not sure of the exact age but I suspect they're fairly old Enkei's, especially given that the last Jap 4x110 wheels were on early RX-7s in the 70's. I actually started chasing down the actual enkei centrecaps but had awful trouble, you can get them in the US for around 50 bucks apiece!! Then just on a whim I found out that the stock KE30 centrecaps are almost a perfect fit. I did put some electrical tape around the base as they were slightly loose. I really should polish the car and wheels again and photograph it.

Fly cutting them (Evans video) is probaly the neatest way to do it though. avoids tool chatter and would give you the most consistent finish?

I say go for it. If you can get the right bore spacing that's a start. But it's only a start, still a long way to go from there! Having worked with a bloke who designed and cast his own engine head, I reckon that it would be easier to go down that route. Look up the OS Giken twincam head for a datsun L series, that's an interesting story.

Hi mate, Please provide a price. Thanks.

Hi pinsx3. Did you even read the earlier posts in this thread? Nobody makes them off the shelf. Custom items only, call special piston services, 1250 for a set.

This is a fantastic build thread. Top work mate. Thats a Chris craft isn't it? My mates old man has been trying to sell me a woody hull for years, much smaller than that beast, and it's only a clinker deck, not the full hull. 17 foot, I'd love to drop a flathead in it and do a bit of wakeskatin behind it!

Early galant mirrors are nice lookin but hard to find. Look like the aftermarket one on that wagon, but better quality. The aftermarket ones are chrome plated plastic.

I know where this is going.... No can't tell you what it is sorry.

Gc, gd, etc galant master cylinders have the same dimensions bolt to bolt, and there's a couple of diameters available so you can work out the right pedal feel for the slave cylinders. You should have a similar diameter to the brake donor car. Larger diameter will have a shorter stroke but require greater pedal force. Smaller is the opposite. I don't think boosted brakes are necessary in a ke10. Take a look in my rides thread,, there's a pic of my engine bay with a vh44 remote booster mounted to the rhs strut tower. It isn't actually operational since I went with the dellortos, but I've been too lazy to pull it out. Brakes work fine.

Like I said.... if it gets any worse, I'll shut it down. Scar92 your question has been answered, the AE86 is the best. Honestly, KE70's main advantage as far as drift goes is that they are cheap and there's plenty more if you stove one. It's less about how well they handle and more about how easy parts are to get. Unfortunately this turned into a flame session and that's where it stops. As for some of you other blokes:

Bullshit. I got pulled over years ago in a turbo bluebird wagon that looked like crap but happened to be engineered and roadworthy. It had a pod and it was borderline to loud (92dBa). I was polite, I was accomodating and the copper really really wanted to do me. But he didn't. Because he couldn't. The best corolla to buy for sliding is an AE86. I've driven KE70's and they handle fairly unimpressively in stock form. High rate springs and 15mm to the bump stops will make your granny's little tartan market trolley "slide". This thread irks me. "sliding" irks me, I'm shutting it down if it gets any worse. Full sick. With matching tote bag.

Crow Cams 4220 double valve springs. Much better solid height than stock, standard retainers and collets. 120 bucks a set delivered. http://www.crowcams.com.au/media/catalogues/50.0%20Std%20Replacement%20Springs.pdf

You know I've never been game to do a keybanger in my rolla, it pops through the exhaust so much when you back off, I'm pretty certain a keybanger is going to blow my muffler up.