philbey

Bolts are tricky if you're a first timer. Practice young padawan. Work on a few cars and you'll realise how easy it is to take the manifolds off a K engine!

All the typed characters I'm going to waste on this fairly pointless debate are as follows: The turbo's making the same power more efficiently, therefore he doesn't use as much fuel, therefore he's heavier at the end of the race, thus he loses. Ok somewhat tongue in cheek, it really is pointless discussion.

They've probably never changed their pattern or their machining program/jigs/fixtures and likely wont anyway. Honestly it's better to have too much than to have not enough.

If you don't care about the law then why even ask the question; just turbo it.

It's very hard to get a casting prefectly flat, don't blame redline it's a pretty standard problem with. Plus extractors (if you have them) have thinner lasercut flanges than the factory cast exhaust flanges. Don't waste time and money machining it, us a file on the nut face of the flange. I filed mine down carefully, it's free and easy, it's only Aluminium. Best that you never touch the head side of the manifold if possible.

Just found my own list of specs on my engine when I calculated compression. My head combustion chamber was 18cc. Specs:

This is the overview of mods that are not allowed for P Plate drivers: Their examples include Extractors and Camshafts From this page

Cool thanks Lou that's good to know ill just whack it in. I did a list of terminal connection changes for the wiki so I'm up to speed on what wires need changing.

Hah that would grind my gears too, having to buy my girlfriend back off someone....

Yeh I might be interested....

Spacer is marginally better than 2 head gaskets but still dodgy. Altezzaclub I'd have no qualms about opening the compression chamber to the full periphery of the cylinder instead of the kidney shape it is currently. I reckon taking out the little bulge in between valves would have minimal impact and gain some volume. Failing that source a head which hasn't been skimmed to excess. Flycutting pistons or opening out the bowl would be another good option as kickn5k mentioned.

I've got am copy of this and it's a good read. Will answer all your questions. http://highered.mcgraw-hill.com/sites/0073129305/information_center_view0/

it doesn't help that weird directly contradicts the I before E except after C rule. (so does science)

Alloy does not mean Aluminium people. Jesus. Steel is an alloy (of iron). Bronze (copper), Brass (also copper), Gunmetal (copper again), Grey and White Cast Iron are all alloys. There are many more. Aluminium is not an alloy. Aluminium alloy is an alloy... surprise. so when you say it's made of Alloy.... WHAT alloy?

That's exactly what I was looking for when I started this thread originally, fantastic. I still need to look over the wiring diagram for the KE15 vs the KE10 dash to see if it'll work.

Too high. Read this webpage and then download the Dynamic CR calculator. You'll need cam specs as well, to target a Dynamic comp ratio. (the 13.9 you have measured is Static compression, the website explains the difference) http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html I suspect you wont get your DCR down low enough, even with a very large grind. Honestly, 2 head gaskets is a bullshit K-sev full-sick drift-hack fix. Twice the gaskets = twice the chance of failure. My engine builder advised me that .038-.040 inches is the value they work with for a compressed gasket thickness on a K motor. That's around the 1mm mark. You are taking the engine to a builder, let him look at your compression ratio's. The best thing to do in this case is to increase the volume in the head, its fairly straightforward as there is plenty of meat there for them to remove. Do it once, do it properly.

Do the cap and thermostat, while you have the system empty, put a bottle of cooling system cleaner through it. These are all cheap and simple maintenance items. If the problem continues then you may want too look at the radiator recon. I paid about 95 bucks to have mine pulled apart and properly cleaned.

All good mate. yeh that's right, twin dellortos. If I flat stick it everywhere I'll push it to 11L/100. I don't see many lights or traffic on my journey, most of it is just cruising through 80 zones, if I were in a heavy traffic commute then it would defintely get higher.

More digging - looks like the datsun guys have the same problem when switching to Electronic ignitions... http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1429&hilit=electronic+tacho

Hi Brett, Keen as mustard to know what front end setup you run? Ditched the leaf spring I'm guessing? Coilovers?

I hate spelling mistakes as much as Redwarf but I usually just bite my tongue.... I particularly hate some of the gaffes that you read in the paper and hear on the news; it's certainly on the rise and when a "Journalist" can't use the language correct, surely that reflects problems with how we educate people?

Bullet55, You're new here, welcome to the rollaclub. Please take the time to look over the forum rules; don't bump threads within 2 hours of posting, if you want an immediate answer, an internet forum isn't the place. And posting "dunno" as a response to a question is also uneccessary. I get 9.5 with a heavily worked 5K. Others are getting down to 6.5L/100 on the open road

A big cam won't help. I have a damn big cam for a street car and I only just got away with it. Your static compression will be much higher. Look up a compression ratio calculator on Google. You need to measure the volume of your head, volume of piston, piston crown Dia, piston at ring land Dia, bore dia, piston to deck height, head gasket dia and compressed gasket thickness, crank stroke. Feed into a calculator to determine static comp ratio. Aim for 10:1 to 11:1. Your overheating and gasket issues are from pre ignition from high comp. I bet this thing sounds horrible when its running? Best you look for either new.head or need piston. Piston will be 160 brand new from acl. Sorry about limited response I'm on the HTC not the computer.

Keep going on that figure. I had 9cc dish (ACL aftermarkets) vs the 22cc factory deep dish, and that was static comp ratio of 12.1:1 A big cam got me out of trouble. Your pistons in those pics have almost no dish it appears so you could be pushing even higher.

Honestly dave, forget that shit, acetone, turps, metho, petrol, forget it all. Get the CRC stuff I posted up, it is insanely good; spray on, leave for 15 minutes, wipe, anything left, reapply. If there's anything after that, it will garaunteed come straight off with a razor. It will lift paint in a matter of seconds, so mask up the block if you like your paintjob and don't put the can down on the guard. Wear gloves, nasty stuff, burns.