LittleRedSpirit

My wife and I have a Christmas non aggression pact.

Ive been working on the left door, its a ʇ~~ɔ. Looks ok now though. Ive painted inside. Its a stealth sorta grey about 3 shades lighter than the primer. Mixed a custom grey, then ran out with a tiny bit remaining, then made a hail mary dregs mix, got a perfect match first go with no other option, and was able to finish with a little extra thinners. Joys of custom.

confirmed

You do neat work. I too enjoy the bundy (tube). I think it wants a P clip on the brake line for that factory look and fit. Plus I think it might stiffen the fluid system, less flex equals brake response maybe at some microscopic level.

Seems like mrs parrot is the only truly thoughtful wife on rollaclub. ;)

The real question is why hasn't every-ones layout evolved like this as all the menus in applications are up top so it saves a lot of swiping and lets me use a tiny amount of desk for the mouse.

Sorry didnt mean to find the nerve. :oops:

Yes David you are not rocking a red or green P, so the scrutiny level goes way down. I think if the system says you're over 30 they leave you be, I've been very lucky, even in the ae86 no heat as yet.

Check your part numbers, maybe they sent you towing springs instead for the rear, which is one letter different in the part number?

Did you cross check the part numbers and make sure you got what you requested?

What can we really say except you should expect an even reduction in ride height at either end, if you get anything other than this return the product and try again with someone else's parts?

Cool, my mate might have a rear disc conversion if it isnt already.

If I had ac I would have piped it to the carport, haha. Decided to have one final go at the roof front line, as an exercise in perfectionism. It had the faintest of low spots. Have been doing prep over the repaired B pillars. I noticed a pinhole in the drivers one yesterday so I welded it up, and have now prepared the pillars both sides, just waiting on a guide coat to dry hard to go over the left side once more. The left door has had a significant repair, with lots of spot welds evident from inside the shell, and quite a bit of filler down low. Its sound though so I'm prepping right over it, I'm not going to do a better job than the panel beater who did it first. There's also some slight malformation of the metal under where the rubber strips were originally. I don't know is this was a symptom of the repair or a separate issue caused by amateur rubber strip removal. Once these issues are addressed I need to finish the prep on the left sill and some of the lower edges of the doors, and thats it. Ready for a lick of the fine primer I have here. One final rub back, then inside, shuts and off to the booth.

Prep has gone on at a good rate. A couple of mates came to help me a couple days ago but it was in the middle of the ehat wave so we got bugger all done. Since then I have just been working on guide and filler. Once I'm happy with the whole exterior I'm going to mix up and paint the inside. Then the shuts. I still need to sand, and prep the gaurds. Very happy with the look of the arches and the car in general.

Put up pics to show ride height otherwise were just reacting your complaints and not adding anythign to the discussion. Maybe they ʞ©$ɟed up and sent you one pair of full height HD and one pair of lowered.

More or less

Good catch

2az likes about 16ms on a cold crank.

If you search for stuff on the site in the appropriate area you will find that we have discussed this at least infinty times over the last 10 years. On the forums the info stays there as opposed to facebook where it just rolls into obscurity.

Upgraded sway bars in my experience are an utter waste of time on a ke70. Car drives well without a rear one, so stock is fine with good bushes, I prefer a stock one with good bushes on the T series rear end. With a bigger diff, you get more inertia at play, so if you do a diff upgrade you may find the relationship between the motion of the diff and the body is in need of more control, then in that case you can add more stiffness, but usually this is within the margin of feel a change from rubber to urethane would give. If you add a big swaybar you increase the effect of the steering input on the rear axle, so the car might feel more powerful, but its just going to be less efficient at putting the small amount of power a ke70 has to the ground, more inclined to over steer, and just generally have less manners. Front swaybars are just a pointless as ʞ©$ɟ mod, all the bar sizes are way too big for anything street driven, stock corolla sizes are fine here even almost too stiff. They just create under steer, everyone who buys an adjustable one just runs it on full loose setting until they go to track with slicks, big brakes and added power and maybe then they may be able to flex it, otherwise its just going to stop the suspension behaving as its designed and create under steer. You need a certain amount of flex and roll to hold on and plant the cambered wheels flat on the ground, most morons set their alignment up for looks, IE low as ʞ©$ɟ, no travel, to stiff everything, and no droop, thick swaybars and too much neg camber and caster, its just a case of too much in every category.

Thank you. I filled the surge tank so I can just put it all back together and it will just start after a quick prime or two. Got it all buttoned up, its a work of art I think. Its good my hands aren't too big. Put in a lot of fresh hose and all new hose clamps. There is about 6mm above the lift pump to the floor. Fuel filter is easy to get to. Line to fill the tank

Fuel systems nearly complete again. I have reinstalled the tank, new surge tank and the high pressure pump I'm working on now. Had to slide it over 2 inches and put a longer piece of hose on it, but it should just fit inside the old mountings. Looking good. Taking a break to let some spilled fuel evaporate, then Ill go finish it. Might see if the lift pump will prime itself too, or whether I need to manually feed it to begin.

Hello thanks for the reply. A good mate of mine, (andostack on AE86DC) James, has offered to help, he is a mechanic, should be no worries doing it, however I'm still kinda interested in some head work. Mainly some performance valve seats and just clean up the ports lightly. Id be curious what you could come up with. I've got head and rod bolts, and the 88.5mm HG and pistons/rings kit for 11:1, so I'm ready to go I guess.

I have an auto technica wheel here new in the box with a piece of paper from the manufacturer claiming it meets adrs. It came from Repco. Same as what I have always used. Never had a ticket for it but never been offered one. I think the wheel is a good red herring to distract a friendly yet misinformed policeman from the other mods. You could look at almost any other stock wheel from toyotas up to early 90s before they changed the spline I think. A boss kit catalogue will tell you which other cars wheels fit.