beerhead

I think you lot are taking my hypothetical thinking out loud as some kind of directive. All I intended it to help someone who wants to build a very hi comp 4AFE in the future. BTW, put in a decent enough sized cam in your car and all shaving your head will do is ruin your cam timing and make it 100% necessary to run cam gears.

Megasquirt are cheap ... yes, but doesn't have the features you want to really get the most out of your motor. You only can run your injectors in batch fire (factory manufactures stopped doing this mid 80's) You can only run wasted spark with an ford EDIS module and trigger wheel(1 igniter driver only) It's 2009 people! Get something modern with some bells and whistles that can milk every last bit of power from your motor. You want full sequential injection (4 drivers) if you're really keen many of the late model ecu's will let you choose the motors angle of rotation for when the fuel is being injected into the port, another few hp and heaps better atomisation of the fuel air mix. Coil over plug ignition rocks, no leads to replace and the coils generally get 300K+ You'll only get two really good days if you buy a microtech. The day you buy it and the day you sell it to someone else :worship:

OK, so early bigport with some recesses cut would be the way to do it.

If the 4AFE and 7AFE have the same head does that mean the that 4AFE pistons in a 7AFE give you a bit of a compression gain?

Went through boonah and didn't drop in for a beer and a paddock bash! I suppose you didn't know I was living out that way these days :P

Pretty much spot on :P Only thing is the R154 has a longer input shaft than the 5VZ R150, needs the shaft turned down or the bell housing spaced out 20mm or so. The biggest issue you'll have on all the FWD motors apart from the 3VZ is the starter motor. Littleredspirit is about to learn how hard this kind of swap is with no spot for the starter motor. Keep an eye on his thread if you're serious on ever taking something like this through to completion.

You better take me for a spin sometime Dave! It was ridiculous the change on Littleredspirits car with a rebuilt shifter. Almost made a 300K box feel good again.

This is a quick how to fit guide for the T18 pedal clusters into a KE70/AE71 (auto) chassis. There are probably other ways to make this work but this is how I did it. It's very close to a bolt in, very little modification needed. The 4 mounting bolts on the upper portion of the pedal box, 2 you can just see there, having 1 more above each you can see respectively. They sit about 10mm from the face that they bolt up to, so I used 4 17mm nuts as washers and longer bolts to bolt it it place. On this part on a T18 there's an extra piece of steel spot welded on. I levered it off with a screwdriver and a hammer. The rest of the bolts bolt straight up as per factory. The biggest problem with using the T18 gear is the steering wheel position. It ends up pointing at the drivers door at 10 - 15 degrees. So I made a small steel adapter plate to offset the stud location and lower the wheel a little. The clutch pedal is very close to the steering column, I'll revise this guide if I find there isn't enough throw to activate the clutch. If you want to do this the easy way get a 17mm socket and put it over the back of the stud for the master cylinder and tap it out with a hammer. Means you can fit the cluster once and just work around it to get the holes drilled. If you want it to be an easy job, I'd recommend forking out the money for an AE71 pedal box. It probably took me 6 - 8 hours to get this how I wanted.

All that effort blurring your plate and its in your signature :lol:

I'm working on a design for a set of pipes for my 3S / KE70 project. What do you think? Anyone done this kinda stuff before? I'm interested to hear anyones experiences who've run similar motors with both varieties of extractors. :y:

I flared the rear guards of a mates commonwhore with an axe and a piece of wood when it kept on bottoming out on the way to go camping. Not my mod, but my uncle was telling me about the local aboriginal family's car issues. The carb was clogged, so they just chucked a 6 year old with a bottle of petrol under the bonnet to trickle a bit of petty down the carby every 5 seconds to keep it going :y:

Those 2 piece ones always blow around the middle exhaust ports, there are some 1 piece asbestos ones that work a charm still floating around occasionally though.

lol, I should watch the credits ... "800hp Duratec" :P

Damn, I thought it was a PRC car! It just didn't look like it was gonna run of the track like that peug :P Maybe traction control is getting too good these days

Might be worth checking the plugs- High revs can cause spark plugs to have there spark blown out if the gap is too wide.

:P That's where you'll find the petrified human body. My rolla had a couple of sharps floating around too hey...

I think the sense of urgency may be due to the Peugeot in the original having of 600hp, double that of a PRC car. Creates a bit more urgency when looking for the brakes!

Only the inlet manifolds are different, you can use the rest of the gasket set though. Bigport come with 2 intake gaskets because of the TVIS plate.

Damn, tidy ride great purchase. Now all you need to do is throw away those RA celica coilovers so you can get some negative camber and proper scrub radius so it'll go around corners :P

Any updates? Must be getting close now.

Yes, but the FWD motors don't have a spigot end and have longer shafts with spline on them. When you add a 2S bellhousing with a stock 3S flywheel you end up with 8 - 10mm of the clutch plate spline that is not on the gearbox spline. I think using the factory auto 4mm flywheel spacer plate would be worth trying to get a closer to factory clutch throw aswell. I've been researching the 3SGE swap for about 7 years now :wink: Hopefully it all pays off.

Yep, they're on there tight. I think the best jig is a hydraulic one. Have the flywheel sitting on a piece of 10mm plate with a oxy cut hole that the flywheel can fall through, but catches the ring gear. Have a small frame over the flywheel and put a jack on the flywheel so that the head catches on the frame. Put about 200- 300kg of force on the jack and heat up the ring gear in a circular motion. In about 5 minutes the ring gear should be getting a little pink and at that point keep jacking the flywheel till the flywheel pushes through the hole leaving the ring gear on the bench. The fitment is a reverse process. I've heard it is possible to do it with a punch and an oxy, but this dude could put a wheel bearing cup in a hub in 3-4 hits with a punch... so I think that most people couldn't pull it off.

Without a speed sensor the factory 20V ecu's loose about 10 deg of timing advance at top end. Without it plugged in the motor also has a reduced rev limit so that in top gear you can't exceed the Japanese speed limiter. Either build a 555 timer circuit connected to an NPN transitor to make a ground pulse or you can do an indicator flasher wired into a relay to make a pulse to trick the ecu as a test :wink:

The Beams 6 speed is too tall for a standard KE/AE transmission tunnel, so it won't just drop in, firewall mods, be it sledge hammer or welding will be required for a beams swap to have the weight where it should be.

We have a thinker ! Got it in one. Use a double row bearing :wink: Many people don't realise that the crown wheel on a flywheel is compression fit. You just need to make a jig and heat up the outer ring with an oxy and hammer it off. Let the flywheel cool down, then reheat the crown wheel. Put the crown wheel on upside down so that the rounded edge teeth for the starter gear is facing the starter in RWD config. Hammer it back on with a punch on a flat sheet of steel. Many people get a custom flywheel, but it isn't 100% necessary.