beerhead

Just like drc_ke20 said. I was taught years ago by a mechanic to throw away any rubber/cork sump gaskets that come in a gasket kit, they are inherently unreliable. Just use permatex blue or any other good quality oil safe silicone based sealant, I've never had a problem doing it this way.

:P haha I am the drunk3nmas7er

It all depends on how far gone the motor is. If you only need to freshen up the motor, new rings bearings and a head reco, $800 might cover it, but if you need to go to oversize bearings and pistons I'd say it'd cost near double that. If you've got a micrometer you can work out if you need to grind the crank, but otherwise I'd pull it to bits and drop the crank and block off to a good engine conditioner to have checked out.

Wow, I never would have thought an ecotech would look so at home in a KE11. You can tell it's an ecotech because the throttle is in the middle of the plenum, the early motors have the throttle at the rear of the intake. BTW, don't bother wasting your money on an aftermarket ecu. The factory AC Delco is completely reprogrammable and even has provisions for boost control, auxiliaries and piles of other goodies. The aussie built twin turbo LS1 silvia drift car competing around the country with 600hp is running a factory delco ecu :P

All toyota ECU's have the pinout code names written on the inside next to the pin header. So if you're unsure of the wiring just take the lid off :bash:

The most common ones around are on the 5K liteaces, or the carby 7K's. Pretty hard to find most of the time.

I would have thought boost pressure has nothing to do with the reliability of a supercharger. Isn't it the fact that to get the extra boost traditionally you're over revving the charger, and the teflon can't handle the centrifugal force and falls off? In your application the larger volume of the supercharger, and the smaller the capacity of the engine, means you will develop higher boost levels than say a 1.6L GZE or a 1GGZE at a lower charger RPM. I'd get that motor balanced with a big aftermarket pulley like that on the front too, bearings won't be happy about it at all.

People who have the time to go around bitching about other people and waste there time trying to force there values on them.

When you're buying a JDM import motor you're guaranteed that it hasn't seen as many oil changes as it should have in its life. For a rotary to last any period of time it has to be serviced properly and regularly, due to their ultra fine tolerances. I've heard 100's of success stories from people buying a $500 SR20 crate motor and feeding it 14 psi for years. Most of the people I've known who've previously owned a rotaries are saying they're expensive to run and service intensive I tend to believe what they're saying. People who've had success with rotary's always look after them, and don't have the mod bug too I'd suggest.

Looks like a pretty decent build. But I'm mystified by why you'd run such a heavy rear spring rate, most 5 tonne trucks have springs that heavy. How's the traction in this thing?

Option A) Bash in the firewall with big hammer and run the factory dizzy- Very cheap. Option B) Aftermarket ECU $1000 - 4000 depending on what ecu you get and whether you can wire it up yourself. Make sure you connect all the 2S sump and oil pickup to the new motor, or you'll run into oil starve issues.

Dude, on a public forum giving advice like this is kinda frowned upon eh. People can do whatever they like at the end of the day, but we all should be following the letter of the law when building cars. This is more for our own protection than anyone else when it comes to matters like this. The only time when things like this will get back to you is when someone dies or is seriously injured in a crash and someone wants to point the blame towards someone. It's probably not worth the risk at the end of the day. As others have suggested spend your cash on suspension mods to begin with, worry about a power once you're off your P's and you've had a few more years on the roads.

Don't forget very low boost friendly compression when you put a GE head on an FE bottom end.

Yep, those fine tooth ratchets are worth their weight in gold, especially the ones that you twist the handle and the ratchet spins. They're the best tool I've seen for tight spots eh, more useful then a ratchet spanner I reakon.

If you get some spool 7AFE forged rods, and some standard 4AGZE pistons you've got a perfect starting point to a 7AGE or 7AGTE. That way you keep the same engine number and keep the fuzz happy. You'll probably need a 4AGZE gearbox to get the right ratio's to make the most of the 7AGTE aswell. Pretty doable depending on how much work you can do yourself.

Nice find mate, how odd are those rear wind down mini windows in these old KE's! All your plans seem pretty good eh, apart from using RA40 struts. The kingpin angle is wrong on them and they tend to make a poor handling car. Get XT130 corona struts and grab the lower control control arms too. That will give you 1 degree of negative camber and have superior steering geometry over the RA40 struts which induce positive camber and bump steer issues. AE86 gear is a bolt in item when using the correct steering arms and swapping the top hats too.

Mazda B1800 rear ends are 4x 114.3 too eh. just measure the distance between the studs center to center across the center of the wheel to get the true pcd. PCD is the diameter of the circle that the wheel studs fall in.

Ah sweet, I'll keep an eye out for ya down my way hey. They're an old box though, gonna be hard finding one that doesn't need work.

Damn, that's a shame dude, only a slight set back though. I've heard CA18 and SR20 have the same gearbox pattern, does this mean that an earlier CA20 or CA18 auto box from a pintara might be smaller and worth trying? Just a thought.

It's up to another moderator to warn LRS if he's exploiting his powers over the masses. "The letter of the law" was broken, but the way party's have gone about this is stupid, ffs he does half the work cleaning the BS up and you stoop to this.

Try posting in the WTB

Looks like a decent project mate, gravel driving is soo much fun. If you're planning to rally it, it might be worth trying to make it PRC compliant. The kinda car's you'll be racing with a non production motor under the hood won't make for much fun racing. Just a thought just in case you haven't considered it yet.

Yeah the K stuff will work as long as it's the electronic ignition type coils. The points coils are lower voltage and will melt down with 12V going through em.

Exedy clutches are very good for standard to medium HP cars for daily use. My camry's exedy took 170,000km's of use and abuse and only slipped when flatshifting 3rd gear at the end of it's life. +1 Exedy 13BT_KE20, what drama's have you had?

seconded. KE70 pajero !!! :P