beerhead

Is the old block a 4K or a 5K? Does your current motor have dished or flat top pistons? Valve springs are just there to keep the valves sealed doesn't matter how many there is, they'll just give your motor more potential to rev (if everything else is right) and waste a little bit of power if they're heavy duty. The important thing is to run the head with the right dish volume so you don't end up with compression high enough for methanol, around 14-15:1 with a 5K head on a 4K bottom end.

Hey, I haven't done a CA18 into sprinter myself but have wired one in the past. Looked almost like the engine was meant to be there, was a bit tight where the AFM sat but apart from that seemed to be a pretty straight forward engine swap. The only real drama is custom engine mounts / crossmember ... your choice. What's the main shit hit the fan moment your thinking could happen?

Bahaha! Reminds me of mates paddock bashing in a WB V8 ute using a milk crate as a seat. Was a slut, there wasn't a shifter because the B&M had been taken so you'd crawl under the car and pop it in drive directly on the gearbox. Funniest part was there was $10K worth of receipts in the glove box for the reco 308 under the bonnet :jamie:

I'm pretty sure I've seen a factory AE86 speedo cable bolted to an S13 box in the past. Leads me to think a landcruiser speed sender may be useable. They bolt straight to the standard cable output. I'll get you a pic if you like.

Nothing wrong with a SOHC motor, they don't make as much top end power, but normally make up for it in the bottom end. Funny part I guess is that the top fueler's V8's are all 2V, so go figure...

Yep spot on, Mitsubishi apparently only have 3 stud patterns on the bellhousings. small medium and large, I wish toyota were as simple! You could possibly try making an adapter plate to run with a generic toyota bellhousing and a W58, It's been done before to get a 3VZFE in RWD on an R bellhousing. I think the hybrid engine is normally built if you want stupid capacity, it's handy that the 90's DOHC heads bolt on the 80's SOHC blocks hey! You can end up with a 2.6L DOHC setup if your really keen!

All the 4A blocks are brothers. There's a few different cranks pistons and rods internally, but the bolt holes for the engine mounts are all in the same spot. You'll need to cut and shut your manifold or buy a RWD one off ebay.

I'm pretty sure in the members rides you'll find someone who's done a KE20 4G swap, I reakon you could follow along his lines. The biggest problem is gearbox selection. Dellows no longer make the supra gearbox adapter, so you stuck with a sigma or a starion box... neither of which are very strong or enjoyable to drive. It's not going to be an easy conversion, most people who want a turbo motor in a corolla just go SR20 or CA18 because of there factory RWD configuration. Can you do most the work yourself?

Apparently most the air flows from the sides of the bell mouth and a full wrap around radius like the ones attached to the carby flow the best.

lols, all that attention over a 5K turbo! There must have been someone there with non bolt in motor.

Damn, this will be one sweet ride once its done. I almost cry every time I go looking on trademe and see how cheap you lot can get a beams :P Hopefully I get my 3S sorted soon! Just an old gen2 but I think it's pretty overrated inside... will see.

Nice! Haven't seen much activity from the TRD brothers of late, hows it all going? This going to be another PRC 5K powered car?

20B's haven't been done much hey, definitely be a little rocket when you're done. 5 stars for originality.

If its an SA63 celica box it'll bolt straight up.

Damn dude, nice setup. That engine sits back heaps good with that right angle adapter for the dizzy. Hows the drive with the 3S? Taken it down the track or to the drags yet?

It depends how well your motor runs on the stock ecu I guess. Sometimes the power gains with an aftermarket are negligible, sometimes when it's a Jap import ecu the gains in drive ability can be quite noticeable. Being a 3SGE being able to throw away the dizzy cap and rotor button may let you improve the engine placement in the bay, but it depends on what the cars for. BTW have you got any pics of your 3S sump setup, it'd be great if you could post any info you have here - 3S oiling thread

Yeah I've heard the Gen1's aren't that flash when stood up, but I've read about an RA28 on toymods with a Gen2 3SGTE with just an oversize sump and baffles having no troubles in track conditions.

I've read every thing I can find on the net about it 3 times, hence trying to find people who've done this conversion before... What gets me though is the oil drain people say to fit is on the same side as the 3 large factory oil drains anyhow. I've read in a build thread of on toymods about someone who just put the bigger sump with baffles and had no drama's what so ever with a 3SGTE stood up on the race track. I think some people possibly don't address the windage tray issue, and without it on a revvy motor you'll be sloshing your sump of oil around pretty badly.

How bigs the cam in the 4K? You'd think it'll be a little on the rich side hey. I bet they just bolted it on with factory jets.

I've heard so many different rumours about rwding a 3S engine that it's hard to make full sense of it. Some people say to put an oil drain on the back of the head on the inlet side, when all the drains are on that side anyhow anyhow. I really wonder if all the fuss is just about people who didn't increase the volume of the sump, ran without a windage tray, and didn't put a baffle on the pickup. The factory 3SGE sump has an integrated factory windage tray and when the spot welds are drilled out, slots into the 2S sump with minimal fuss. There's a baffle right next to the pickup in the fwd sump hiding under the windage tray too. Compare it to the 2S sump and it has 1 useless horizontal baffle where the sump curves, and no integrated windage tray. My plan is to enlarge the 2S sump volume to about 6L, mod the 3S windage tray to suit, and add a few baffles around where the pickup sits. I've heard of many people getting away with the problems like this. I wonder if people who had problems just bolted on a 2S sump and pickup and said "she'll be right"... anyone had some first hand experience with a RWD 3S?

May not make power, but you'll get double the life out of your coils and they'll run cooler if you're running 1ZZ or similar coils with 4 igniter drivers.

Haha, yeah 4k's just keep on giving and giving. I sat in one spot with my KE55 doing a circle with my old KE55 with a 300+ duration cam trying to blow the thing once it got a little smokey. I shit you not the thing was on 7200 for about 25 minutes and all that happened was as it got hot it stopped making decent power. I turned it off waited half and hour and it started first turn of the key and was running as good as ever.

Apologies for the thread hijack... Not all motors respond the same way, I probably get things wrong sometimes because of being taught too much crap by 2V V8 people, but I've been told many times that advancing the cam gives you better bottom end torque, I wish I could have experimented on my own car though bloody chains! Here's a link I googled by some triumph lovers about cam timing, not too bad - Cam timing I'm not sure about aftermarket cam's having there timing offset from the factory, but I've never heard of people not finding drive ability in some cam gears, so I'd doubt it'd be very accurately timed in. Without a dyno run between each cam timing change it'd be hard to really notice any real gain or loss in power due to cam timing not really making or loosing power, just shifting it around a touch. I'm sure you would see the power move around a little on a graph. Who knows the head shave with the extra degree of retard may make more power, I'm sure the extra comp will cancel out any losses if the cam timing makes a loss anyhow... Even stock cams gain in driveabilty with cam adjustable gears from most accounts so factory timing isn't great to start with. Sam, I was talking about most modded 20V water systems in general, not about your kit, Yager motorsport have been fitting a similar setup to clubmans for nearly a decade now, I bet AE86's in Japan were wearing similar setups before we even knew 20V's existed :jamie: My biggest gripe with the 16V water system in a 20V is when I overlayed the 2 gaskets I saw that the layout of the small varying holes over all the water passages were not the same. To my understanding these are what control the coolant flow throughout the head, you put a small hole at the start of the chain and a larger hole as you go along as the pressure drops. If calculated properly the flow through each coolant port should be the same. The 20V gasket would not distribute the water pressure in the head the way a 16V gasket would, I'd expect that the head wouldn't be as evenly cooled. I'm sure day to day driving like a nanna and a quick blap here and there wouldn't be a change in reliability, but I bet you all the money in the world you put 2 20V's side by side, one with factory coolant flow one with 16V flow, both revving on the limiter with unlimited fuel and oil that's changed on the fly I know what one would blow up first.

When you shave the head of a clockwise spinning motor you retard your camshaft timing, pushing the power band further up into the rev range. It sounds good, but just makes your motor less ping safe, harder to tune, and drives your peak torque higher. I'm talking here about putting a big cam in a motor not about stock cams... Cam timing is one of the most crucial things to drive-ability when you're building a revver. If your fitting big cams to your motor you want to advance your cam timing to the point where you bring your peak torque back to a useable point of the rev range. My mechanic says you can get away with skipping a full tooth back on many applications when you're hitting 300+ duration cams (5 - 10 degrees advance). So 1.5 degrees of retard is probably fine on a stock motor, with close to stock compression. But the fact is a high comp motor with big cams needs the cam timing advanced to the point that you can take full advantage of the power band, or your not getting the most out of your motor. I really don't get with the "She'll be right" attitude when you're changing a variable that Toyota would have spent millions of dollars getting right. It's a little bit like the 20V motors running there water similar to a 16V. Does it work... yes, but toyota spent millions redesigning the water distribution of the head to cool the intake valves first to reduce detonation, allowing for colder intakes temps and more HP. Some people see replicating as close to factory Toyota conditions as possible crucial, some think they know better...

I'm gonna be getting one of those ottomoto coilover kits hey. I haven't heard good reports on dimitri's coilovers. Was it 12mm of strut clearance on one side and 2mm on the other according to someone who bought a pair Matt? They're the full weld on at the stub axel so they have to be aligned perfect. He obviously doesn't weld the tubes on the axel with a jig, or uses a bent jig, this kind of crap needs to be perfect, take it to a professional suspension place (No offence intended if the owner of the car is just running +12 +22 mixed offset wheels on the front... but it seems unlikely)