beerhead

Yeah you can cut and shut the manifold, or even better find a JDM AE86 intake.

Sounds like you don't actually have a problem. If the cam timing is all on the timing marks with piston 1 at TDC, and the timing marks say 10 deg BTDC when its really at TDC then the motor is really running at 16 deg BTDC at idle when you're gun says 26 deg. Get a white paint pen and put a new TDC mark lined up with zero on the crank pulley when the piston is at the top of its stroke. I bet the timing is where you thought it should be. 20V timing pulleys are offset, I'm sure there's more out there that are the same from what others have said. Need some pics to help, but if the motor isn't getting hot and the pipes aren't glowing at idle then you should be fine. Making reasonable power?

If you want power get a regrind cam, extractors, 2" system and shim up the valve springs to get better revs. Induction wise run a re-jetted gemini nikki carb or 32/36 webber. Even the standard carby runs quite well with a mild cam. EFI only gives you efficiency, unless it's fully programmable and you have engine mods like listed above you won't end up with any extra power. It'll cost $1000 minimum to go fully programmable efi, that's if you can do everything yourself, another $300 to get it tuned properly. I think an aftermarket ecu is an investment, it can be used on any motor you choose to run in the future. Not trying to stop ol mate selling his EFI gear, but it's only part of the equation.

$3000 for a beams and 6 speed box these days. If you really want it to hammer I'd do that without hesitation. You get a sweet gearbox in the package too, but they don't fit that well and need some sledge hammer love to make them fit in the tunnel nicely. Microtech's bottom of the barrel for ecu choice IMO, fine on boosted motors, but not that flash on an open throttle motor. They don't run mixed mode tuning, so you can't use MAP for the first 5% of the TPS signal and go to TPS tune after that. Adaptronic is one of the best bang for buck ecu's getting around these days and the features are amazing. I'm doing a GEN2 3S in my KE70 with a W55 box, alot of stuffing around to get it right, I read too much crap and just confused myself. I think there's as many ways to get a 3S in rwd as there are 3S's in rwd ...

Electronic dizzy will definitely be needed. What you need is dependent on what ecu you want a run. Most 5K's run electric already, have a look under the cap to see if there's points in there, the old bosch jetronic system runs off a simple 4 point trigger the same as the 4KE, but most have an internal igniter module, so you'll have to do some stuffing around to get the signal to a stock 4KE ecu to make it run. If its aftermarket, get a 7KE dizzy as that gives the signals that'll let you run full sequential injection. Many also go to crank mounted hall effect pickups for aftermarket installs. Maybe a full set of stock 7KE electrics could be used to run it, but I haven't done it so that's up to you to try. You looking for power or economy?

So when the crank is at 10 deg are the cam timing marks line up on the cams? Take a pic of both. I reakon both your cams are out of wack no other way for the pipes to glow red. Ignition timing won't do that, only cam timing.

What a head f*#k, I thought I had some sort of handle on the 4AGEs, like hi comp 91 model bigports WTF??? If it's def a higher rated jap ecu then you should have made more power with it. I really don't think japanese fuel in the early 90's would have been that good. I'd try wiring up your speed sensor, if that doesn't help then you've proved the JDM vs ADM ecu debate is load of crap :jamie: Aftermarket may be the only way to scratch a few more HP out of your motor.

That is no question RWD ftw!!!

What do you mean? I just thought the only difference was that it had a 7 rib non oil squinter bottom end.

Easy way to test the timing mark is to pull out the spark plug on cyl 1 and put a long screwdriver in the hole. Wind the motor back and forward a bit and make sure the timing mark is lined up correct when the screwdriver is at its highest point

I'm pretty sure only the AE86 was rated at 96kw, I've never heard of any other bigports talked about with the same rating. Did you do a run with a wideband up the tail pipe check the AFRS to see if injectors will help? Check the ecu codes and see if its saying speed sensor, might be worth a shot wiring it up. Would be good to see it now with a AE86 ecu, maybe it's all a load of crap. But that said, you've got more torque in the mid range which should give you better acceleration.

4.3's are in the auto's.

Cool, I still have fond memories of my mates VL turbo, still the fastest car I've ever driven. Will be stealth till it comes on boost, after that more than a few necks will turn. What ECU you planning to run?

You picked it too, I don't think it should idle that high, even at cold start up. Does the idle drop down once its warmed up? If not try pulling of the intake pipe and see if putting your fingers over the air bypasses stalls the motor. If it stalls try adjusting the TPS, you could be in the wrong part of the map from idle.

Not a hope. He has to give you a refund. You came in asking for an AE82 ecu and he said try this it may work. Just tell him you're within your report him to fair trading for fraudulent activity if he doesn't remedy the situation. He was the engine importer and therefore should be the person that knows what should work with what. If he wasn't sure it would work he shouldn't have sold it to you.

yep, definitely no good, I'll post up the pin comparisons in a tic, that thing is semi sequential, 2 banks of injectors, the bigport is batch fire. I doubt the CAS will even send the right signal to the ecu

You need an AE86 JDM sprinter ECU for the uprated KW and rev cut, I'm honestly not sure if the AE92 one you have there is the same deal. Plug it in and see how it goes. BTW I think the pins will match up, they're just printed underneath on one and on top on the other

If they're bush turbos do the rebuild yourself, unless the bearing has let go and the impeller has hit the housing you can normally get away without machining or balancing. should be under $100 a kit per turbo. Have a hunt online, I've read a few good articles over the years and it really didn't look too difficult.

Seen it done a few times, there's a wild 7AGE 20V turbo car in NZ and a few others around aus these days. Drama is rod strength, you need some spool moly 7AFE con rods. Run the factory 20V pistons with it and it'll all tie together. Can't remember the timing belt people use off hand though...

27 is too much at idle. Sounds like you could be out a tooth on the dizzy. Set the motor and 10 deg BTDC checking you can see the notch through the oil filler on the cam and you're truly at TDC. Insert the dizzy with the cap and rotor removed so you can see the number 1 tooth (the one the rotor button points at) teeth on the 4 tooth wheel perfectly aligned with the upper pickup in the dizzy.

The biggest drama will be the stud pattern. 4 x 100 vs 5 x 114.3. You could have the rotors redrilled, but you'd have to measure the stud spacing on the calipers and there offset to see if it'll work.

I assume you mean adaptronic ECU, not microtech. BTW, hall effect means a 5V pulse, all 4AGE dizzy's are a reluctance type sensor. Now if you want to save fuel and get a few extra HP you need to mod the Dizzy to allow for full sequential injection, either that or buy a 100kw dizzy or a GZE cas for the correct signals. You can setup the adaptronic to run batch fire, but it's 2010, so try and get the most out of the 25 year old motor. You grind off 3 out of 4 of the 4 prong wheel in the dizzy. Set the crank at 10 deg BTDC, looking to make sure you can see the notch in the top of the cam when you look through the oil filler. Insert the dizzy so that the remaining tooth lines up on the magneto pickup at that height. That's the home trigger wheel. The other 24 tooth wheel is the speed signal that is used to detect the angle the motor is at. Adaptronic are adaptable by name and nature, if you wire up the ground correct and the other two signals to the other 2 triggers it's just a matter of configuring the ecu to know what signal is coming in on each channel. LOL just saw the date on this post, hope you've sorted it by now.

Definitely the same part, go to www.toyodiy.com for the EPC online

Hating, and morally disapproving in someones actions are two different things. You've never done anything personally to offend me, so I don't hate you, but I didn't want to gratify you with a response as there's nothing you could say to me that'll change how I disapprove of your antics. You should realise that after seeing you delete Rollaclub and Driving club a few times in a ploy to extort money in various ways, I came to the conclusion that I don't know who you were, and I don't know what you stand for. I miss the old nick that loved his rolla and was full of positive input for the this car community. I don't know why it came to a heads between you and Rollaclub, but you confuse me even more by jumping on here and pretending like nothing happened. Maybe one day I could be involved in a car forum you're part of, but it would take a few years of not seeing controversies that you're at the center of.

The problem is there are car forums that behave like a community, like Rollaclub, and there are those that are run like a communist country by a dictator who doesn't, or no longer has interest in the car that their forum represents, who will turn to gestapo tactics at a drop of a hat in an attempt to make a community into a profitable business.