beerhead

Run an extension lead from house and cut the end off. Solder the positive and the negative to $2 coins and leave the car unlocked with them visible in the center console. If your really lucky you'll even get roast dinner for breakky !!

I always remind the haters that bring emissions onto the table that the amount of pollution created making there fancy new low emissions car is more than my old rolla would make in a lifetime. Not to mention that half the parts now are sourced from China where environmental protection laws are unheard of. But yeah, losers who've never done anything in there life but work 9-5 and pay other people to do things for them aren't the kind of people that would be impressed by anything that didn't have new car smell, or made them feel like they're better than everyone else.

Haha, I should remember to get that off you sometime, thanks for reminding me where mine went ;)

Should have coughed and farted with the carby clean as trev said, are all the plugs are ok, definely the right temp ones too? Have a look at the map sensor signal on the laptop at crank, make sure its getting vaccum, also make sure the rpm at crank looks right. You've never seen the motor run right? Does it have compression? Is the cam timing correct? Good luck ;)

Most people end up with a 4AGE or a 4AGZE engine swap after looking into modding there FE. You're FWD so get a 20V halfcut and the conversion will be relatively easy. Open trumpets on a FWD motor is a bit of a no-no, you'll be sucking up air thats been heated up by the engine bay, it'll sound cool, but loose power.

Hey, thats the same ecu my mate had trouble with on a JZ, turned out he had the polarity on the cam reset sensor around the wrong way, some ecu's handle that kind of stuff, others don't.

If in doubt screw in 1 spark plug and kick the motor over by hand. I used to run EB falcon plugs in my 5K because they were a bit longer and put the spark closer to the middle of the combustion chamber.

Other option is external reeds, run it as a 2 stroke it and it'll do it easily.

GT35/40 on 10psi on a Haybusa motor makes 400hp at 15,000rpm, tuned in brissy too. Nothing till 9000rpm then all hell breaks loose. So yep - If you can rev it hard it enough it'll spool. Mech injection pumps straight to the cumbustion chamber and you get no detonation at hideous compression ratios. Add this to purchase order - - Monoblock copy of a 4AGE in titanium head to sump - headgaskets are for chumps. - 20,000rpm will need a desmodromic valve train from a ducatti or pneumatic valve springs, F1 motors only go to 15K on springs - call ferarri or cosworth and ask for a quote I dare you :jamie: - Fully sequential dog box that'll take 20,000rpm shifts - Maybe a more expensive turbo with fancier bearings is in order.

Got your work cut out there man! I knew there'd be more rust hiding away. You'll have some mad skills with that mig by the time you get to the end of this.

Looking very tidy man - 2L turbo in a corolla is going to have some get up and go. How flexible is that dynomat? It reasonably easy to get right? Looks good, and weights heaps less than the tarry crap I bet.

BTW swapping the steering arms you end up stuffing the ackerman effect too. What people forget is the lower arm in all these earlier rwd toyotas are very similar in length. What changes between the models is how close the struts towers are together. So they made a strut/ steering armo combo that's gemotry suits that car. By adding longer arms you're putting the hub at the correct angle, but in doing so you're spacing the hub further away from the car you've got the lower arm starting to point up in a lowered car. Then you need RCA's that are so tall that the control arms almost rub on 15" wheels to get rid of the bump steer. Sux that Ae86 driving club has been deleted too many times, so the threads with piles of people dumping there RA60 or ST141 gear from about 6-7 years ago are long gone. I remember slydar saying some other steering arm helped, might be worth searching for, but even the efficency of the shock is reduced when the shock isn't upright...

This was the last thread about microtech ecus. They work, but alot of people have had issues in the past with them. Microtech ecus. I say this to everyone who asks about ecus - find a tuner that you trust and ask them what ecu they like to work with. The cold air induction is a good thing in a FWD 20V. The intake is crammed up against the firewall, where the air that you'd be feeding the motor has to pass around the hot motor before getting to the intake if you had open quads. Some RWD 20V owners that I know want an airbox because of engine bay temps.

I love the workmanship, the only drama you'll have is the struts have the wrong kinpin angle for a KE. ST141 and RA60 struts are the worst struts you can fit to a KE. Bad if you like corners, they change the scrub radius of the tyre and most people end up putting XT130 corona or AE86 struts once they realise they've ruined the front end geometry. I bet this car has epic positive camber at the moment. Sorry for being a bringer of bad news, but if you're putting a powerful engine in the car I assume you'll want to get the handling right.

Just teasing, the irony is that there was an American inventor with a steam powered car with a hot box in the boot that was more efficient than any petrol car has ever been.

:fuzz: I'm still in stitches myself

:fuzz:

Have you ever double checked the cam timing? Trying to find some other dyno plots with torque of a 20V to compare yours too. Out of interest, have you ever done a compression test? Has to be a reason its not making as much top end as it should, and thats 2 different dyno's right? A tooth out on the cam timing or spinning the VVTI cam backwards when doing a timing belt could get the cams out of whack.

Yeah in the 60's is low, I wonder if they've fed it enough timing advance. Dyno to dyno though there can be alot of variance, they're just a tuning tool for loading up an engine. You ever lined up any other 20V's?

I bet it was serviced properly, as long as the rings still seal nice old bearings with looser tolerances in the bottom end should go better than new. You've got a golden goose bigport there trev, no doubt about it, but my 20V AE93 will spank it :dance:

Well I've read 100 times now, people saying that toyota inflated there power rating of the 20V 4age engine series. I'm quite certain this rumour is because all Japanese engines are rated in PS (metric HP) and people forget to take that into consideration. I'm assuming a 20% drivetrain loss for RWD vehicles. Crank power crank PS crank HP RWHP RWKW Silvertop - 160 157.8 126.2 94 Blacktop - 168 165.7 132.5 98 Now not everyone makes 94kw with there ST 20V, but there are many people that do. If you're making 85kw atw on a dirty old 20V with unknown km's on it you're doing fairly well. My conclusion is that there's as many bad tuners out there as there are rattly old 20V's at the importers. Concluding that Toyota overinflated there power rating based on a peoples experiences with 2nd hand motors that are getting close to 20 years old seems plain wrong. Especially when a majority of the RWD swaps have deleted the airbox and negated the factory coolant flow designed specifically to keep intake temps down(denser air = more HP). Is my logic right?

Haha awesome, best I've done is soldering wires with a ciggarate lighter and a paperclip, I might try a coat hanger with the tig sometime :dance:

Man stuff using paint, have them bead blasted and powder coated and you won't need to touch them for years.

Looks great. Hope you were flowing inert gas inside the pipe while welding though, otherwise the weld won't penetrate and you can get issues with the welds cracking under thermal expansion.

I'm guessing a supercharged Commo motor, but I reakon a hilux 1GRFE with a TRD blower would be the choice for a torque monster 4wd powerplant!