beerhead

:abuse: wingate92, in one of those vids I can see through your firewall, not just suspension mods by the looks. Wish it was legal over here! Looks like a wild bit of gear, you mainly use it for drag or track work?

I think using wheel spacers is completely wrong. Get wheels that'll fit the car properly. So as best as you can work out how wide a wheel will fit under the guards, then use the hub mounting face to calculate the required offset. If you don't understand offset 0 offset being the centre-line of the rim, more dish is negative, less dish is positive offset. Requires a bit of visualisation lying under the car but you should be able to work out what will fit.

The anticipation.. looking tidy!

As long as there's 255's or wider on the back to match the 10.5's it's all cool. Will need some C4 to explode 195's onto them otherwise dude :happy: Anymore people have a smash in awe of the mighty panno yet?

The best example would be a tuner I know who went from complaining about them a year or 2 back to raving about them with all the refinements over the last year, ranking them up there with haltechs and motecs. Andy Wyatt was originally doing the adaptronic ECU as a 1 man band, but now there's 3 new engineers on the case and they've come a long way in a very short timeframe. My current adaptronic is still on the shelf waiting for me to get the 3SGE going, but I've seen litleredspirits car run smoother and smoother over the last few firmware updates, its behaviour 2 years ago compared to now is indescribable with words. I just like that they care enough about selling a quality product that they don't charge for any firmware updates. Greenmac, I just googled "microtech cold start" and there is talk that people bag microtechs because most people don't set them up, and that was on an MT4... I think half the problems people get with an ECU is the tuner being inexperienced with every ECU.

Adaptronic is 10 times the ecu of a microtech. With the latest firmware they do Volumetric efficiency autotuning which heaps of time on the dyno. None of this bullcrap charge you $200 for an update, you just plug in a standard pass through com cable (no crappy $100 dongle) and get the firmware off there webpage. Is the most powerful budget ECU on the market today.

LTS will need external igniters, LTX has them internally and they'll drive a coil directly. The biggest downer with a microtech is if you want to change do a different motor, they'll charge you $200 to rechip the ecu. With boost, they tune well, but with atmo cars most aren't impressed by how they tune up. That said none of my mates have tried to run one in years, as they've had a pile of bad rep, so maybe they work a little better now. I'm a big fan of the adaptronic ecu's, great bang for there buck, launch control, traction control, electronic boost control that you can set max boost in each gear to limit wheel spin too. People forgot though, it's all about keeping your tuner happy when you decide what ecu to use. Talk to people you know with modded cars and try to find out who's the best dyno tuner in your area and have a chat to them. Then get an ECU that they like to work with and you'll save a fortune in tuning.

Yeah, I abused my 4K on a daily basis, but the motor had no power till 4000rpm and I was readjusting the tolerances on a weekly basis for months :D Not really sure if there was something else that was wrong causing the issues with the mech lifters, but my mate with a 308 with 300rwhp at the time (now twin supercharged with 500rwhp) is still on hydro's and has never had to pull the rocker covers off to fiddle with anything!

Most of the worked 308 and 350 chevs are still on hydro lifters. I've had problems with solids with a 7500+rpm worked 4K, they just would unwind on the adjuster if I held the motor flat chat for too long. If the oil pressure in the motor is good, the lift of the cam should dictate how far the valve is open, but I bet the valve will open slower and you'll make less power with a hydro lifter due to the valve opening slower. Ahh - Sounds like you've already got the solid lifters, so go with it, I was under the impression you were going to spend money on some more parts. When I priced the conversion it was going to cost me about $200 in new parts, and I couldn't justify it at the time. BTW, dependent on how much lift the cam has you'll end up on the limits of the rocker adjustment with 4K gear, as the 5K head is a thicker casting than the 4K so you could end up needing to shave down the rocker posts too. Did you notice a performance increase with the solids taz?

Here you go - Pics say 1000 words. You can get crimp on ones too. I Googled "bicycle brake cable end"

I just went to a push bike shop and got a screw down brake pedal cable attachment. Cut down the cable and bolt it on together with loctite.

Totally different animal. they're a separate pedal, not 1 piece like an AE71

If your going solid lifter I guess your going a performance cam? It's just the ramp rate that's different, just tell the cam grinder what your doing and they'll do it to spec. Also remember unless your gonna rev it over 8000rpm there is no point to solid lifters, hydro's have there advantage. You never need to adjust the tappets, which my worked 4K needed every time you were up it for an extended period of time.

Always sad to hear of another rust free rolla going to china to get melted into soup cans. The hard part is finding a shell that is rust free, getting really rare. Biggest drama is that all K motors are so inherently reliable that 9/10, though rusting to bits still have a half decent drive line, so it isn't rare for a K motor to be problem free till past 400K kms if the owner believes in servicing the thing. These kinda things are hard line to choose, if you've got the space give yourself a couple of months the right shell could show up, if you can do all the work yourself than it isn't a bad move to shelve it to see what the future holds.

Looks bloody awesome dude! Those kamei lips really do the 80's cars justice.

Yeah I'm pretty sure that was it, nice guess, was a massive cam though. I also fitted a small bolt to the vacuum secondaries actuator to have them open a bit early too. Was an 88-42 cam or so I was told, extractors and 2 1/4 system. Was gutless down low but you would zoom past V6 commo's once it got on song.

I definitely got better power with a nikki over the stock carby with a cam, better fuel economy too. The stock jets are a little big though, go raid a mazda 929 and a mazda 323 of there jets that'll give you 6 different fuel jets and emulsion jets to play with inlcuding the ones in the carby already. A day of stuffing around and it'll go purrfect with a bit of patience. I made a tiny bit less power with my Nikki than a webber, but fuel economy went from 13L/100 to just under 10L/100, so it was a good move IMO.

I take you didn't notice the sticky thread in the Engine conversions section you just posted in. Remember to have a search, this question is asked weekly...

Double check the part number, 5S camry motors run one too and also run the same oil filter, might be worth a look.

Woot - Commo V6 rolla paddock basher would be nuts.

Too many toys Niz :P Haha sounds like you've got the Drag bug matt!!! Hopefully you don't end up with a 3 cylinder again after the next run.

I'd assume the brass plug is probably just a welsch plug of the right size, trying to find now as I need some for my 3S but those tweakit ones really look like the goods.

Go the baby blue rolla! Looks like an awesome package mate, will be pretty quick, can't wait for the 3SGE vs 7AGE battle. Can't wait to see the beast in action. You gonna run stock cams for now?

:P dam, I was hoping this was gonna be part of the paddock fleet. Of anyone deserving a free rolla on this forum its you mate. Good score.

I'm not meaning to be smart either, but to remove the old firewall he would have angle grinded it out, and to fit the new one welded it in :P