beerhead

Are you running the TPS or MAP sensor as the primary feedback loop? You'll need TPS mode to tune those throttles. You won't be using enough of the tune table if your using vaccum mode for the engine to work properly.

pretty sure they run off an SV21 camry wiring harness, or you can re pin the bigport loom. You can set them up with the hand controller and they do fuel and ignition.

Did you try wiring the ground and the 5V backwards on the TPS? I just remembered some ecu's don't take toyota's signals and need to be inverted.

If the calibration doesn't work - Check with a multi meter which wire of the TPS you're reading from. The 4 wire 20V sensors has a throttle closed switch and a variable resistor- I reakon you've wired up to the switch rather than the resistor, pop 1 pin and swap it in the TPS and hey presto it'll work.

Yeah man, he's far to kind to that corolla, abuse of late 20 sumthing year old rolla's need less lube!!

Haha trying to guess the time before it flashes, pretty sure I got cut there rambling :yes: Still heaps more in it with some gearbox abuse!

Dam what a nice collection of classic toyota's. Best holiday ever mate?

What people forget about is torque delivery. A high flow water system just lets the motor rev out without strain. A dyno just tells you the peak efficiency of a motor, not the the way the power is put down, its all the area under the curve and every thing that reduces the strain on the rotating mass of an engine will make it pickup faster.

My bet is on a cold start idle valve that's under the throttle being sticky. Get some carby clean and spray it down the holes inside the throttle body and let the motor sit for a while, then start it up and spray it down them as the motor idles. Then give it a little spray of WD or silicone spray once you get it working. I find if I tap my throttle body with breaker bar when this happens it free's up and the revs drop. Alot of people delete these because when the motors old they get unreliable.

Yeah, you won't gain any huge amount of peak HP, you're still putting the load onto the alternator. But you're taking a restriction off the motor and letting it rev easily. The motor will pickup faster as it doesn't increase the flow rate of the cooling system as the revs climb, plus the water pump doesn't need to pump all the water through a restrictive thermostat. 1/4 mile run before and after and see if there's any difference if you go ahead with it.

Looks great, top effort getting it scrub free Terry!

A parts interpreter I know told me once that king springs ended up with a bad reputation due to there own stupidity when they were bought out about a decade ago. The new owner decided that all springs with the same physical dimension would become the same part, without care for the spring rates or the weight of the car they're intended for. I've personally had no trouble with kings, but I bet that opinion changes depending which model the parts are intended for. If your planning on hitting the track, I'd think about getting something a little heavier, but if its just a street car I'm sure they'll be fine.

Trev's on the money, narrow bands are only really good under fixed throttle position, as they take a couple of seconds to react to exhaust gases the reading is useless under acceleration. Wideband sensors take a fraction of a second to tell you what the mix is doing, definitely worth while IMO. Jaycar do a wideband kit too, just need to make sure it can datalog.

3SGTE needs custom, intake, turbo manifold, sump and electronics, they never came out as a RWD motor. Some fit oil drains in the head, some don't. I've lowered the height of the center drain in my head on a 3SGE, hopefully that'll help the cause along side of an oversize sump. An AWD/FWD 3SGE/ 3SGTE to RWD is not a conversion for the faint hearted, as the other guys have said the beams 3SGE IS200 motor is the way to go, 150kw atmo, use 3SGTE forged rods and pistons and a nice size turbo and it'll make more power than you need. It's a superior motor over an SR20DET, but bang for buck its a hard call.

Had a chat on the phone today, hopefully he's had a win :yes:

Very nice box of tricks there, gotta take me for a spin when its all together.

Camry now purr's it's on when we manage a dry night. Need to track down a helmet hey.

Looking good man.

T50 is a much nicer box to deal with than a K50. BTW the exedy webpage has all the clutch spline and diam data online.

How big a turbo are you running and whats your estimated peak HP?

AE70 and AE85 gearboxes are the cable type clutch gearboxes that'll bolt up to an A engine. You'll have to split the gearbox in half, as the bellhousing is integrated into the front section of the case. Find a T50, definitely a better gearbox.

Putting in bigger injectors is the old lazy way of fueling up a standard ECU setup if you're running lean after doing engine mods. The factory 235cc factory injectors won't run out of puff till 200hp, it'll just force you to run an aftermarket when the engine isn't modified enough to warrant one. My 2c would be extractors and exhaust, port the head and fit a 0.8mm gasket to bump up the compression a touch. Add some adjustable cam gears and get the peak torque where you want it, and spend the rest on some koni's or kyb adjustable shocks.

It goes in the same hole as a dizzy, if its a gen1 bigport GZE it will run a dizzy anyhow.

Here's a dirty idea for someone, offset regrind the crank, 4AC rods and you'll have a stroked 5K and not need to deck the block :) Should be close to 1600cc.

Factory Dizzy base has the needed signals, you can mod a bigport dizzy to work too, or pay some decent coin and score a GZE CAS.