beerhead

WTF? Hectic AE86 lovers not wanting you wheels, they're retards, the shit you do could only be replicated with a time machine to the 80's.

Loving this build, so glad to see that head off toymods ended up in such good hands. Track battle's coming early 2011 me thinks :)

Now with that much carbon HTF isn't this in the tech builds section! Just wondering too, when my KE is on the road - give or take a month now :) I'm looking for some driver training, you keen to come abuse my KE down QR?

Sounds porn dude - great to see you've got the beast on the road - I can see the light of the tunnel on my KE now - can't wait for the joy of driving it.

Cool. I've got a 20,000km old box for one of these if you break it, but most people upgrade to an ST205 box which is fairly much bulletproof and run Porsche style syncro's.

Call these guys - Hartley engines They made a twin cam hayabusa into a quad cam V8 - probably have all the gear to sort you out :lolcry:

Should just work fine then. Resister pack + Low impedance or High impedance without anything.

The only problem with the black carbon is it show's up the white stain's left by corolla lovers :lolcry:

You can, but you'll have to open up the ecu and bypass the built in resistor that drops the voltage to an acceptable level for the low impedance injectors, but if the resister pack is external you can just cut it off and bridge the inputs and outputs to allow full voltage to the injectors.

If its anything like how the KE70 clips work you start at the back and twist the strip from the base up a few degree's and push forward and they pop off with a bit of jiggling. If your careful you'll get them off and they'll have only a slight twist that straightens up when you put them back on.

The early 3SFE and late 3SFE are different animals. If you've got an early one you can get the late model cams which have a larger base circle and have them ground down to get a little more duration and lift. Late 90's model rav 4's also come with a wasted spark ECU, which would be good for a RWD swap. The late 90's toyota spacia(noah in japan) came with a factory RWD 3SFE, even a model with a supercharger. Port's on the 3SGTE and 3SFE exhausts have the same spacing, but are missing 2 of the bolt holes, so you can run GT4 / MR2 manifolds, but of course they're FWD config apart from custom gear.

Dude, love the KE70 guard mod you've done, really gives it a bit of stance. Can't wait to see some fat wheels under there. Later.

Ah, thats what I should have done to my sump bung to get it sitting lower! I Was planning to use a brick under the back drivers wheel when draining it :lolcry:

Fancy Terry having some epic new shoes for his old rolla! Looks the goods, I can't recall seeing wheels like that with dish, look good hey.

EFI LPG is too expensive you're going gas and can run a carby instead, keep it simple I think. I'd recommenced a Gas Research LPG throttle body, can be had as a side draft or down draft setup. If you get an EFI motor you can bolt the throttle body where the factory EFI throttle body used to be, and convert it to 4k/5K electric or points ignition, if you get a carby motor, you can get the down draft model and your sorted. Gas hats work, but don't work as well as the gas research gear.

Dude, that's awesome, I love people who think outside the square, taken it for a cruise yet? The only drama you may run into is the back cylinder not getting as much air with an intake manifold without a taper, but it'll still work fine.

Dam, and i thought my sump was a nightmare! Looking good though Matt, will be a nice bit of gear when you're done. Should be great offroad too, all that torque and an auto really lets you do the low speed stuff smoothly.

I've read about someone adapting a 6 speed IS200 box to a 4age to make use of its close ratios. They work well with a revver, 2-5 just about match the TRD T50 gearset or something along those lines.

Car-Go metallic sealup FTW! Seals those niggly leaks really well.. $10 a bottle and lasts for years if your lucky.

The wax pellet idle control on the early toyota's works like a thermostat on an air bypass to pick up the revs when the motors cold, and shuts with warm coolant as the motor heats up (though most are broken these days). If there's a 3 wire plug on a small plastic box on the side of the throttle body it'll have electronic idle control, take the 2 screws out of the solenoid body and check if the actuator still spins smoothly and easily. If its crusty pull it off and feed it carby cleaner or kero until it's smooth to moove with your fingers. Not sure about the gen1 ecu and closed loop, but most ecu's do after the early 80's do, so I'd suggest trying to reset the ecu again and load up the motor like I was talking about to see if it changes its behaviour. BTW is the oxygen sensor any good? Might be worth checking the error codes to make sure it's not the problem, or the ecu reset will do nothing but put it in the base map. The other thing that's worth doing is to take the cover off the AFM and at idle push the needle back and forwards to pick a different part of the map, not sure if you've played with carby motors in the past and heard the engine note change when you adjust the idle screw, but you'll hear the motor stumble if there's too little fuel. I'd guess a bit of extra fuel at idle would be good, 200cc larger motor now, so that's 10% more fuel needed from the get go. I'd undo the bolt that sets the base position of the needle and try moving it forwards the same distance that fiddling with the needle when the motor was running made the motor sound the happiest. Once again scratch a mark or use a paint pen so you know your starting point when you do these things, just in case..

I'm pretty sure the oxy sensor will adjust the trim of the ecu at low RPM points too. Was the ecu reset after putting the turbo gear on it? Make sure the idle control is working properly, though those the gen1 may just be a wax pellet like a bigport 4AGE. I wonder if the ecu has a closed loop at lower RPM autotune when you turn the ecu on after a reset like most others around? Might be worth trying turn everything on in the car, lights, AC/ Heater, dimister, and jiggle the power steering as you first fire the car up so that the ecu sets a new baseline for the map. If you want to fiddle with the AFM get a paint pen and put a dot somewhere on the big cog you spin around that adjusts the tension, then on on the body of the unit, that way you can easily set it back to your starting point if things go sour. Depending on what gear you were in you may not have hit the fuel cut yet, but I think it'll happen up in the top end. I'd retard the base timing a touch too, 5-7 degree's base will keep things happier until you get an aftermarket ECU.

Yeah 10psi on a stock AFM will definitely hit fuel cut which is when the AFM is at 100%. You could get it working better by putting in larger volume injectors and then increasing the tension of the air flow meter spring, to make the ecu progress slower into the map. A wideband with a datalogger would be ideal to get everything spot on, but with persistence good results can be had. An old fart I know does this to supercharge motors with stock atmo AFM ecus. I did the same adjustment trick with a 3SFE AFM on my 20V, people all say they won't rev out without an oxygen sensor, which my setup is currently missing, and it'll bounce off the limiter very happily.

MS65 Crown hubs are what you want for a bolt on, they fetch a pretty penny though - $300 a set, a quick shave and all the factory brakes will bolt up if they're redrilled to match. MS112 hubs needs machining and custom sleeves machined to adapt the bearing cups, but can be had for cheap. Generic trailer hubs run the same bearing too, if your upgrading the brakes you'd need to run a floating rotor setup on them, but I've never seen this done, but being a load rated I'd say the engineer would be happy with them (don't quote me ask). BTW hoppers won't sell you loose hubs, not legal according to them, as there brake systems are sold as a package.

Yeah I've pondered that one too, big drama is how wide they are, there's an MA61 with a VG30DET on toymods and it's really tight in the bay, I'm sure atmo won't need as much side room, but nice extractors take up a bit of space too.

I did piles of research on the camry 3VZFE V6 idea years ago. You can use 5VZFE prado/hilux extractors, bellhousing and intake (but the runners are really long because they're truck gear designed for torque) Dizzy comes out the back of the head so you'll need an aftermarket ecu to get good fitment. 1MZ has been done, and they're a nice light motor, sign up to toymods as there's a RA28 with one swapped in, he hacked a chuck out of the block to accommodate the starter, and used an auto 5VZ bellhousing with an offset adapter plate to get the motor to bolt W58, and custom manifolds all over. They run factory wasted spark so it would be possible to run on a factory ecu. If its a burnout car there's nothing wrong with a steel block V6 commo motor, it just won't steer very happily. A 1JZ is doable, but without firewall mods it won't be a great handler either. I think the alloytec commo motor might be worth looking into, the name says it all, 180ish kg which is a big improvement on the steel block motors.