mungi mods

thanks for the positive comments !! powder coaters are being slow... i want my mesh daily rims back on the car!!!!! this will end up as a weekend race/sprint/hillclimb car so serious rubber is a must, full suspension travel is a must I just cut ,cut ,cut then work out what i need to do to keep it "stock---ish" to not attract po-po attention when everything is under the guards i find the po-po don't really bother you... should have my 15 x 10.5 meshies next week can't find any road tyres to fit them so they may get 225/50/15's stretched on or just go full racing slicks 255/550/15 by dunlop 15 x9.5 fronts are at the wheel shop Atm, getting straightened and all rash repaired should be back in a couple of weeks the rear flare works out at approx 75 mm over standard... all steel as i can't bog or fibreglass for s*#t not yet finished but as it is currently my daily driver .... got to keep it semi...legal will be welding a strip around the arch to effectively lower it by approx 35mm to give the apperance the car is even lower than it already is to do the drivers side the car will be off the road for 1 week as i have to remove the fuel tank etc to modify the inner guards and pump the guards

pics say it best..............

no problem.... happy to help out

nice project looks like a te71 coupe saw one of these racing back in the early 80's with flares and monster rims.....Phatt keep up the good work p.s wanna do mine ? lol

tip 1 to remove anodizing quickly without effort.. use Mr Muscle oven cleaner leave on for 1 hr wash off and sand lightly with 800 grit then reapply Tip 2 need a lathe to spin your rims as you polish ? what i do is jack up my car, put it on jack stands, wind up the drum brake on one side to "lock the wheel ', then bolt the wheel to be polished on the other side start the engine and wind up the idle to around 4000 rpm, put car into 4th gear and hey presto wheel spins at 60-70 km/h and makes it easy to sand and polish CARE MUST BE TAKEN DOING THIS Tip 3 take your time................ results like this are achievable at home for minimal outlay

Mirror, Mirror ........................ dish mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........

would have been me^^^ work in Eagle Farm what were you driving?

thanks ^^ wait till you see the new rims i have coming.....15 x 10.5 Meshies... :D :yes: work ewings are all polished waiting for the powdercoaters to finish their job ..Friday car is back reppin' the "rona's " on the back SSR mk2R "r" apart polished and centre in for powder coating as well on a side note weighed them today outer rim weighs 1.5 kgs centre weighs 3 kgs making a complete 15 x7.5 rim at 4.5 kgs.. superlight GTR is 6.7kgs +1 for jap race rims pics soon .................

ok got a set of rims that have seen better days? want to restore the shine and lustre? this is how i do it the rim in question anodizing is milky and there are some scratches and not really shiny also centres need a refinish step 1 remove wheel off the car step 2 if it is a 2 /3 piece rim unbolt the centre i will be getting my centre sandblasted and powder coated (cost approx $30 per centre ) step 3 dependant on the surface condition sand back with sand paper for badly corroded / scratched rims I start with 40 grit to remove all damage ALWAYS SAND AROUND THE RIM >>>NEVER ACROSS and use long strokes keep rotating wheel if your rims are not that bad start with like a 400 grit once the surface looks smooth and uniform use progressively finer grades of sandpaper 40 to 60 to 80 to 120 to 240 to 320 to 400 to 600 to 800 to 1200 to 2000 should get to a finish like this.. I also sand the inside clean with 800 grit and remove old balance weight adhesives etc next step is to buff the now smooth but not very shiny surface usung a buffing wheel on a power drill using a cutting compound grey first on a stitched wheel to make surface shiny and remove very slight scratches left from sanding take your time and don't load the buff up with too much compound then once the rim looks shiny wipe over with turps to remove excess compund. swap over to the rag buff with white compound and continue to polish to a high lustre will end up looking like this.. :laff: mmmmmmm shiny... :lolcry: then it's a matter of using a metal polish regularly to keep shiny and clean the above photo has not had any polish on it yet... but it will ( will be even shinier ) the compound and buffs and powerdrill to do this are available at bunnings total cost is like $60 - 70 but a worthwhile investment as you can polish pretty much anything alloy following the same steps above depending on condition will take anywhere from 1 hr to 4 hrs will update with more info and pics later along with a few short cuts and tips i have discovered to speed up the process.. :(

What are you trying to say.................LOL my grip monster will be fine in the twisty stuff, just not FAST

yes... buy falcon springs cut em in half and then fine tune you will need a pairt of sierra short stroke shocks to keep the springs captive check out other peoples rides and you will see how low other peoples cars are

as long as it's 4k friendly... lol will take a passenger if anyone is keen but car is broken

decided to restore my work ewings today Pics Finished...........

i'll putt putt 4k style..

been there did that....... new car under way more obese, bigger wheels, more offset , mucho dish .... same concept as above slightly different execution. the one that is half done swallows a 16 x 8 meshie and makes it look like a stocko rim in there....... close thread

the REAL owner

it all comes down to how much you need to flare them... 1 inch or less... roller will be fine more means more work cutting,boltons etc... pics help what wheels are you trying to fit? just get out the grinder and cut until they fit ... thats the Mungi Mods way lol..

spotted yellow ke30 JIP ** browns Plains.. parked in his driveway!!!! lol

got some new rollaclub sticker todayu Thanks JiP... on a side note stupid people at tyre shops... my front SSR's should have 90 degree valves but some rocket scientist decided to put short straight ones in.. there behind the mesh so ... to inflate tyres you first have to remove rims.... will be fixed tomorrow drives so much nicer on these rims... +1 for JDM spec rimmmmzzzzz

what happened to the quads???

new Daily rims n tyres reppin' the mesh Bro' specs are front SSR Reverse Mesh 15 x 7 +11 with 185/55 15 eagles ( 2.5 inches of flat Dish ) Rears are Work Ewing Mesh 16 x 8 +11with 205/50/15 Dunlop Formula r semi slicks # inches of flat Dish ) imo it looks FAT !!! all under rolled lip guards............WIN !!! Pics ( sorry for quality taken just now and it's dark out )

woops changed

delete thread

nope actually not a bad fit could remove the exhausts in place engine was back in the engine bay 120mm through the original firewall for weight balance as for box had a r154 supra box was a project drift car / something to do.... Cost engine $900 -1200 gearbox w with bellhousing etc $1400 R154 with bell housing etc $2500-3000 computer n loom etc $1400 extractors n exhausts $700-1200 body work to make it fit ............. willwood pedal box $800 then normal coilovers etc brake upgrade etc wheels n tyres not much change from $8000 doing it your self.... gone to china now...

yes $0.00 ummm .... ummmm ... ummm i think so....