coln72

Had a Ke35 that was originally a reddy brown metallic colour (russet????). Will dig up pics tomorrow.

Play it by ear. Set the timing to 10 or so degrees and go for a good drive. If it doesn't "ping" great either leave as is or change it. If you hear it "ping" (usually under load) stop and back the timing off a bit. Just know which way to turn the dizzy. (Used to have to do this all the time in my HZ when I was towing). By the way, I used to run around 12 deg in my modded 5K (higher comp, carbs, extractors and exhaust) on regular unleaded.

Distance isn't the problem - its getting the funding out of she who must be obeyed.......

Still can't see why people do this............

No Kylie's (the missus at the time)

Why does everything have to bo 3 hours away........... :D

"to redrill and tap the holes in the strut that the backing plate mounts to from m8 to m10x1.25 (intermediate thread). Bolt 30/55 caliper to backing plate." Or you could be dodgey and just use the 8mm bolts...........a certain white KE20 in the distant past had this done.

Nothing wrong strength wise with a leaf spring set up. If you are worried about the diff moving, all you would need be something like a panhard rod or a wattslink to stop the diff going sideways.

As far as regulators go I never had any issues not running one, either with tuning or reliability, with a facet in 15 years. My Holley pump was in the engine bay :sob: as I could not fit the thing under the car. It was freaking huge, but could almost pour fuel straight into the carbies from the drivers strut tower when it was turned on without the fuel hose attatched.

Mine was mineral processing. 2 hours in the hottest room on campus listening to a monotone reading straight from the provided class notes. ZZZZZZ

Ended up being under the boot floor on rubber mounts (the racers was solid mounted). You could still hear it but not too bad. Did that because it was easy to join up to the rubber hoses that come through the floor near the diff. No need for a regulator. The roadies was hooked up to ignition on, don't think a relay was used. The racer was operated via a switch on the dash and was wired up through the oil pressure sender so if it lost oil pressure the pump would stop :sob: With a facet there is no need for a primary pump. I found that I needed a primary pump when I had a holley red pump fitted. pump would stop pumpin if it got an air in the lines.

I usually slept through those.......

If its a facet type you wont have an issue. Ran them for years with single and twin asains. Just mount it some place where you wont hear it as they are noisy little bastards. Ran one under my parcel shelf for a while until it gave me the shits. In fact I still have one here if you want to come get it :sob:

noticed that today. Me bad.

My old 5k would pull 8000ish with out an issue. Would see the shift light constantly on when it was set to 7500rpm.

Try 10 Tenths Australian Motorsport Forum. There a a lot of people there that have info on Grp A Tourers. I had no luck with my resources - 90 & 91 is an era that I lack. If it was earlier or later I could help.

Me bad - as a metallurgist by qualification I got lazy.

Holy shit - dissolving the alloy!!!!!!!! mmm lightened alloy components for the win :no2:

Find out how it handles before touching anything. Handling is subjective, what suits me would not suit you. Work out what you would like the car to do eg. roll less, understeer less, oversteer less........ and talk to people in your car club on what you want to do specifically. There are also a few good books out there that may help you. By the way, my KE20's set up was cut fron springs, standard struts, relocated lower control arm mounts and strut top, and a specific alignment for the front. On the rear it was standard shocks with softened rear springs. This was a reasonably competitive car for stuff all money.

Have you tried a second hand wheel place for them. If your in VIC you could try WHEELS in Ballarat. They seem to be able to find most things.

you probably should but I never bothered :jamie:

Ran a reground cam in my 5k with out any isses with lifters. Just fitted it and fired her up. If you want to get carried away you could machine down the rocker posts.

need to do the same to some alloys as well.

Mine were similar but I kept the factory rubber stops and fitted the pins next to them.

typical Red - only thinking of himself :sob: