coln72

Fitted an aftermarket rear bar. U bolts on the diff and allthread through the floor for the body mounts

Soory guy but PHUKTD has been taken. It was on a car in Ballarat a while back. Stuffed how that got through the RTA

road ke35 had a single spinner in it and with the rear bar it was useless in the tighter stuff. Good for more open sweepers though.

My early rx7 alloys fitted well with 185/65/13's. Only have to chamfer the centre hole to fit on the front or the wheel nuts come loose and the wheel falls off :dance: in front of Red and all of the TCCA guys :lolcry: Also had the stuck wheel experience after painting my RX4 steelies. HAd to drive around in circles with the wheel nuts loose to get it off. The BIG rubber mallet wouldn't moove the wheel.

As I said, I had issues with it spinning up the inside wheel with the rear bar. Give it a go, you can always take it back off if it sucks.

Why do you need a rear bar for. Had one on my '35 and it would inside wheel spin like crazy. Actually would come to a stop on one roundabout. Makes the rear end really stiff in roll and to make the most of it you need a LSD. Fitted one to my KE20 and later removed it as it was very oversteery with the locker. Would be looking out the side windows in 3rd gear :dance: when powering out of corners on the local autocross track with the rear bar fitted.

Try and dig up a set of 3kb carbies. These are a factory fitted twin set up and will work well with a cam and extractors. If you are lucky you can pick them up cheap (have got them for $25 for a complete set and $0 for a manifold only). Noticable difference on a 5k. It actually ran better with the twins and still could get over 30mpg on the highway. When you got up it though.........

Nothing like that shows up in my KE20 parts manuals.

fitted one to my old '35. Just welded the body mounts on as there were no mounting pionts in the floor pan.

It was worth a look.

I was refering to the 1000

Thats the one on japanesenostalicar.com isn't it. Great to see some pics as the works internet blocks the pics.

You left the Maryborough?????? :) You should know that no one leaves................;)

Cheapest and easiest is to cut your originals. Ran cut springs in cars for close to 14 years without issues (guess it doesn't make it right but it wasn't going to kill me) and either car was very competitive in motorsports. Have a troll around any car wrecking yards with your standard spring in hand and look for something that is the same diameter but shorter. There a lots of cars in Europe that we have never seen so there's got to be one that will fit. Another option is to reset your original springs to the height that you want. Take them to a spring maker and talk to the guy that actually does that work, not the person behind the counter. They will tell you what is possible and what is not. Word of warning. don't go to low as you will completely stuff its handling. Think 2" should be absolute maximum in my opinion unless it is for show.

only 12000rpm tch, tch :yes: your just not trying are you :y:

just like real life :yes:

Found this showing some images from GT Legends. This almost makes me want to upgrade the computer :yes: game on

This may have been posted before but some of these are pure sex. click me click me!

just remembered. I by seatbelts from Hemco in Ballarat Vic for my human powered racers. hemco industries

should be able to buy new seatbelts. An ex got new retractables fitted to her KE20. For the door pulls, screw a strip of leather to the door, thats all mine had.

Local bike club do that as a fundraiser. Take three different engines. drain vital fluids and rev them until the go bang.

Some excellent shots so far. Hope mine are good enough.

used to run 225's on 6" rims so 205's on 7's seem ok to me.

run both - best of both worlds :poke: Seen a HKS kit for a 4AGE that did this.

Give it a go. I actually removed the "vacumm" butterfly on one of my carbies and it had no noticable negative effect. Can't say that it made any difference either.