adam-__-

Cheers mate. :no2: All the best with your ride too! The engine's running all good now. Had to tweak a few things here and there, but it's very nice to drive now. After changing the head gasket, I installed the intake cam gear and it was a tooth out. That explained why I needed to advance the timing so bad for it to run right. When fixing that up, I used the timing light again and set it to the right setting, it felt like shit down low, but really really good up top. When you put your foot down, it just got weak, it turned out to be the throttle position sensor set up wrong. That was the last thing I changed on the motor, it's running good now. :S Oh I nearly forgot, I did a compression test on the motor this afternoon (after coming home from the drive with the fixed TPS) and I got ~200psi across all four cylinders!! (Maybe the motor was rebuilt! ;) ) One mistake I forgot to do was open the throttle in its max position. I'll be trying it again to see if I can get a higher reading. :D Anyway, this is the newest photo I've got of the car/motor. Took this about 30mins ago. Will try to get some good pictures of the car tomorrow.

I got the motor with the cam covers already painted like this so can't help you there. =/ Keeping it clean isn't a problem so far. Haven't driven the car much since the conversion, but it doesn't look like it'll get dirty too soon.

I just quickly ran outside to take this photo. hahaha. The loom still needs to be cleaned up a little. The black cam covers are in that wrinkle texture.

This is how mines done. Looks a bit dodgy because I haven't really tried to clean up the paint, but if you respray the area, no one will ever know. :S

With the hole which was used for the cable clutch, I just put some of my new loom into that. It looks like Toyota put that hole for the wiring from factory! hahaha

No worries. :S Could it be that one pair of the holes were made for the K50 cross member and the other was made for the T50 cross member from Toyota? Like they used the same chassis for both the KE's and AE's so they just made four holes altogether so that which ever model the shell was made as, the bolt holes were there? Hehe hope that made sense. Either way, we got the cross members to fit and all works well.

With my T50 cross member, it's being held on by two bolts (one each side). I'm not sure where you got '4' from? I just ran outside to take a look at my standard K50 cross member and that was only held on by 2 bolts too (one each side). Under the car though, there's two bolt holes each side. I just used the holes the cross member lined up with. Edit: I put in my cross member like this one, So that the cross member's bending like.... <-front of car (

What are the specs of new wheels? They look to have quite a bit of dish on them.

Okay, I think I know why this is happening. My speedo was originally out by roughly 5kmh, I was running 175/70/13 tyres, I moved up to 185/55/15 tyres and the speedo was better. I've now gone from the standard motor to a 4AGE which is using a ADM T50. The speedo is now out by 5 - 10kmh again (same as with standard tyres). If my speedo was correct in the first place, all I needed to do to correct the current speedo with the T50 is to run these 185/55/15's. I still don't understand why my speedo was off 5kmh at 60kmh in the first place. Oh well, I'll use this calculator again and see what speedo gear I'll need using standard tyre diameter, but then run these tyres (the 185/55/15's) to correct the 5kmh error it had originally.

I'm tempted to just pay someone else to do that as well at the moment, because I don't know shit about what's going on inside the gearbox. I'm willing to learn so I will take a look and if it's too complicated, I might just get someone to recalibrate my speedo.

Hey guys, Connex is willing to give $1 dollar for every message of hope you put on their website to the PETER MAC foundation! Please whore their site!! It's for a good cause. Please get everyone you know to add a message. http://www.connexforcancerday.com.au/ Cheers, Adam

I don't understand. :S I've got the standard diff (as far as I know) and they've got a 3.9 diff, I want to run a 185/55/15 tyre which is 0.585m in diameter. Using Jonny's formula, it tells me I need a speedo gear ratio of 20:6. Also from that thread, Jonny says that boxes which is originally run behind a 4AC has 20:6 standard. Then why does my speedo read incorrectly? I'm confused. :D I think I'll need to pull out the gears from my box and make sure it really is a box with the 20:6 speedo gears.

Cheers for that mate. I'll see what I can find and take a look at it tomorrow. I don't understand why with the standard engine and box, the speedo was off 5kmh. Would've thought there was something you can 'tune'. Anyway I'll take a look for that thread and see what I can find. Thanks Edit: For anyone needing this information, here's the link parrot is referring to, http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/in...l=speedo++cable

I've got a borg warner as far as I know. Is there any way of fixing this up? When I still had the 4k in the car, I would just drive ~5kmh over what it says it is, but I want to get this fixed up because the kilometer reading my car's giving is getting more wrong with every drive. I really drive 100km, but my counter tells me I've driven 120km for example. I don't want my car to look like it's been driven more than it has. :bash:

Not that I know of. :bash: The car was dead standard when I bought it so I don't think anyone has touched it since coming out of the factory.

Hey guys, I've got a KE70 which originally came with a manual transmission (K50) 4K-C and recently did a 4AGE conversion. I've pretty much finished the conversion, but still having problems with my speedometer. I used the standard speedo cable with the T50 box and it fits in fine, but the speedo reading is about 10kmh off. It reads ~67kmh when really I'm going 60km or ~90 when I'm going 80kmh. My speedo was originally off about 5kmh with the K50. I've changed from a clock cluster to a tacho one and no change. I was just wondering what speedo cable you guys have used when doing the 4AGE swap? Can I do anything to correct the error in the speedo or is it best/easiest to pick up a AE71 speedo cable? Cheers, Adam

Got the exhaust done. Planned on only getting the front half done and make sure the motor's okay before purchasing the rest, but I ended up getting the whole system. Extractor back is 2.25" press bent with resonator and rear end muffler for $270! Not bad I thought. Not the system I was initially after though. I wanted a 2.25" mandrel system with a resonator AND muffler in the middle then twin 2.5" pipes from diff back. Oh well... Car's still a bit loud, but I think it's because it idles at 2.5-3krpms. All caused by the auxiliary air valve in the throttle body. I've blocked that up and still waiting for everything to dry before starting it again. Hopefully it idles around 1krpm. Tomorrow's plans are to start the engine up and fix the leak if it hasn't been fixed already by what I've done. That and probably adjust the timing with a timing light I'll be borrowing off a friend. I'll try to get a picture up of how the car's sitting now with the exhaust and engine work done (wheels have been put back on, couldn't stand the sunken look it had with the stockies). :) Edit: I was just wondering, what speedo cable are people using when they've gone from a 4KC to a 4AGE? I've noticed that my speedo is out by about 10kmh! :bash:

The engine's all good now as far as I know. Hunting in the idle as disappeared with a little adjustments if the throttle position sensor. Tomorrow I'll be getting the front half of the exhaust made up. Once we know for sure the motor's okay, the rear half will be made up. Anyway, enough talk from me, here are a few photos and a link to a video of the motor running. It was supposed to have gone longer, but something happened to the camera. Wheels anyone? :no2: I've put stockies back on just for now. Looks ugly, didn't wanna take photos. And here's the link to the video. Enjoy.. Edit: The video shows me pointing the camera to the extractors area, I was doing that to show you guys I'm running no exhaust, but you can't see anything. :yes:

Happy Birthday mate! :yes:

I think the thing inside the box has TOO much contact that's why it's not moving when you've filled up or used the petrol. With my sender, they would only be in contact when the tank (or leaver thing) was below the half a tank mark. Anything above that wouldn't be touching. So I would have a full tank, the gauge tells me its empty, then when I reach half a tank, it would tell me I've got a half tank till empty. Hope that made sense. What I did was take the sender out and put a staple in beside a spring the sender's got inside that box. It now has contact at full and empty tank. It wasn't as easy as getting any piece of metal and putting in though. A piece too thick will hold it too much and not let the leaver arm move. Maybe you've touched it in the past to make it touch, but when you dropped your tank for the 4AGE conversion, rust as built up and made that contact too tight? I know I didn't use any technical words for the things I'm talking about and I'm sorry. I just don't know the names, but I hope what I wrote makes sense. :yes:

And she's alive once again!! This time without any problems so far with the oil ** keeps fingers crossed nothing does happen **. Pretty much just took the head off and replaced the 'TRD 0.5mm' head gasket with a standard Toyota item. Flushed the whole motor again and changed filter. I took the head gasket out and it doesn't look damaged at all. :yes: I don't think it was condensation in the oil from not starting for awhile either. The oil was REALLY bad. Oh well, changed it so we now know for sure it's not the head gasket, didn't want to run the risk of overheating and warping the head. Took one photo of the engine with the head off and a picture of the head gasket. The motor's pretty much ready to be driven, only needs an exhaust made up for it and for the hunting idle to be fixed. Apart from that, everything's all good so far. I'll try to get a video of the motor running. Didn't get a chance to record the start up I had today. Was fixing the timing and when I got it done, dad had already left (for work), leaving me to check out the motor by myself. Soon...

What were you doing on the way there? Why all the cops? :yes:

Okay, I just came back from being outside and while I was out there, I measured the bore of the piston and it turns out that it's the standard size, 81mm. I was told that the motor had been rebuilt with '40thou oversized pistons'. Don't believe what people say they've done this and that to a motor unless they've got receipts. :P My fault really for not asking for one. Just got too excited. The head gasket was supposed to have been a TRD 0.5mm head gasket too. I'm not sure on how to measure it, but I got a number bit over 2mm. So far I think this guy's a farkin dodgy kunt. Says this motor's had this and that done to it, but when the things arrive, one item is missing, motor gets started up, but is leaking coolant through the head gasket and when you try to get in contact with him, no reply. Sorry about the rant. :fuzz:

Yeah, we've got anti hoon laws far about a year now I think.

A little update of what has happened. Saturday morning, I went to my local wrecker for a browse and I happened to see a AE82 there with a 4AGE, pretty complete, but all I needed was the distributor so I took that from the car. Went home, installed it and tried to start the car. Crank crank crank, it never got started so I did the checks to see if I had compression, spark and fuel. Compression test passed, spark test passed, fuel... fuel... Had a bit of a hunt around and it turned out to be a dead high pressure pump. Tested it twice before installing it, but when the big day came, it decided to die. :fuzz: Today, I went and bought another fuel pump, went home installed it. Cranked it over then it took a few tries before it STARTED! Seeing that the motor was only just rebuilt, we wanted to keep the revs over 2.5krpms for 10-15mins. There weren't any problems doing that, but the car being a bit loud. We only ended up revving it for about 2mins in total, start, stop start then stop. First time we stopped because there were HEAPS of smoke, it turned out to be the paint on the new extractors coming off or something. Second time, there was coolant leak. The coolant which came out was the same colour as milk... 8| Drained oil, all that came out was milk milk milk! =) I then quickly did a search on the net to see what the problem could be. Many people said that it was the head gasket. Some said that was normal after leaving a motor sitting for a few months, but I don't think that the oil would've been that bad if it wasn't a big problem. I just thought it would've been best to change the head gasket in case. I didn't want to keep running it and risk stuffing my head up. Cut the story short, my dad and I pulled the whole engine apart, the head is currently off and sitting beside my car. Will have to check to see if there are any obvious damages tomorrow morning. If it wasn't the head gasket which was stuffed, I just wasted a good TRD head gasket. :( Sorry I didn't get a chance to take any photos or video anything. Didn't have enough hands and when I did, I wasn't happy. :P Will keep you all updated on what's happening.