parrot

Actually rediscovered this the other day http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=19896 May be helpful.

Great work, though I reckon I would have been putting the good bits in the KE25, but that's personal preference. Buckleys of using a angle grinder around my way at 2am.......though it may have happened once or twice. Hmm, hacksaw for 1/2 hr or angle grinder for 5 secs??

Agreed that is a great job, BUT, and I hate to rain on your parade, as Felix says, it would be extremely dangerous for the passenger if you crash. Likely to do a good job of taking off the legs at the shin level - seriously I would suggest making another one out of the thin masonite stuff. If you steam it, should bend around a mould of some sort (rolling pin). I think you will find that is why it was made from masonite in the first place. Otherwise you could cut down a plastic tray from the wreckers to suit, then trim it as you have done. Much safer and still very sturdy.

Is it just me, are all the KE1x's in Adelaide and Perth! Looking forward to this one, good luck with it. Would love a spare K engine, but you are a bit far away......

Join up on Toymods http://www.toymods.net/forums/ There is a mass of quality info on there about 2TG 3TG builds including sourcing pistons and whatnot. If you try and search 2TG within the forum, the search term is too short and won't accept it. Use google advanced search, and search 2TG within the Toymods website.

So assuming you have a stock T series disc brake rear in an AE71. There is no adjustment at the calipers. The secret is to set it up properly to begin with. Disconnect your cables at the caliper. Wind the piston all the way in and refit the calipers and pads. DO NOT TOUCH THE HANDBRAKE. Bleed brakes if you haven't already, otherwise get a pedal by depressing the brake pedal a few times to get the pads seated and located up against the disc. Only now do you apply the handbrake. The problem with T series rears in AE86's that were S series equipped and almost certainly in AE71's, is that the front hand brake cable is too long when you put a T series in. Most people get around this by putting spacers under the nut at the handbrake lever end inside the car. This helps, but the handle is too high. The way to fix this is to use a shorter front cable. I have pulled front cables out of various 70's & 80's Toyota's to sort this, and found that in an ADM AE86 with a T series disc rear fitted with factory rear cables, the front cable from an SV11 Camry is a perfect length. Set it up properly, locate an SV11 front cable, and I am pretty confident you will be OK. Joker in the pack would be if the the AE71 lever is slightly different. If so, find a cable to suit.

Unfortunately I missed out. I have already got one however. Scanning the whole book is a big job. I have previously gone to the effort to scan up the EU and USDM AE86 electrical wiring diagram books, plus the 4AGE diagnostics manual and had them hosted on aeu86.org for anyone to download. Then some prick in the US started selling my scans on ebay! Oh well, that's the way of the world I suppose. Realistically you are unlikely to find one cheaper than $20 - 40 before postage. haven't seen it scanned online, but will let you know if I find it. Oh and welcome by the way! 3TCgarage.com (US based) is also good for your chassis and engine.

No, my math is good. You're just not looking hard enough. $1.51 plus $9.95 equals $11.46 for a neat copy. Was so cheap I bid on it myself! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...EOIBUAA:AU:1123 Might be a good idea to put your location in your profile, easier to help you out that way.

No idea what you are running or how it is breaking, but the front wheel drive pump is different to a RWD one. FWD isn't designed to have a fan bolted to it, plus the nose of the FWD pump is from memory longer. So, depending on what combination of pumps and pulleys you are running in rear drive configuration, possibly the belt deflection is loading the pump excessively? Does everything line up, or is the belt running at an angle?

Well if you are too tight to spend $0.99 plus $9.95 postage, I buggered if I am going to get of my arse and help you!

You will need to make absolutely sure, that the engine number in the car matches the engine number on the current registration documents. Quite likely the engine has been changed and Vicroads never advised. Otherwise you will run into problems in SA. If not, at an absolute minimum, you would need a receipt for the engine. And this is risky as anyone can write anything, you have no guarantee the motor wasn't stolen or whatever. Unlikely, but you never know.

Were there any KE1x's, KE2x's or AE86's? Forlorn hope, but will save me a trip!

Have a look on aeu86.org There is a bit to be found about Charmants on there. Edit: Sorry I should say, have a look on aeu86.org as well as checking the transaxle code as SamQ suggests

Nice one Cameron. Something else to add to my shopping list! At least now I will know they fit. I have another thing to post up to you so will get that off in the next day or so.

Hmm, to quote from a certain build thread. "Besides if I'm going to get pulled over i think my rear shelf is the last thing i have to worry about haha." No one said it had to be standard height, just a sensible height. Have you done anything to eliminate bump steer? And if you are running spacers, you're asking for it. I imagine with Adelaide being a small place, your going to come across these guys again. Step back and have a look at it from the police(legal) point of view, do what you need to, and it will still be an awesome car.

Agreed 100%. Just fix it. If you can't get it through, it shouldn't have been on the road in the first place. Having said that, I truly hope you quickly get it back on the road, just in a roadworthy condition. And as for the cube comment, so what. If any of you guys were cops, I reckon there would be a few smart arse comments coming out when you pulled some crappy Falcon/Commodore over! I know I would :jamie:

Not quite sure how that post deserved the flameage you copped. Anyway, perhaps write that one down to experience, and don't take it to heart.

Well have finally got my stock AE86 rear calipers apart. With the kids and everything, I sort of get 10 mins here, 30 mins there to do stuff. I was a bit worried as there is all this talk that you need special tools to strip them down, and the reference about some special tool in the factory manual is rather vague. Yes you need a tool to turn the piston, but they are readily available at any autopart shop. Seem to need some tool once you unscrew the piston, but in reality, they all come apart easily enough, and you just need some reasonably long internal circlip pliers to get at the circlip in the bottom. The first one came out with a bit of a struggle since the only circlip pliers I had that were long and narrow enough to just reach were fairly buggered. The second caliper one I couldn't get at due to the orientation of the circlip lug holes. So next day down to Repco where they had them on special at $12! Had the other circlip out in 10 secs. If you have the right tool for the job, goes so easy. The piston spindle is a bit of a prick to get out due to the O ring at the other end making it difficult to pull out. So just screw the piston back onto the spindle a bit and you have something to actually grip and pull. This didn't work for the second caliper, but by very gently levering under the lip either side of the piston with two flat drive screw drivers, it popped out easily. Inside, the caliper was filthy, with barely any crappy dried out grease. I can't believe they were actually functioning. So now I need to get on with reassembling them! Then once this set is done, I will get on and rebuild a second set I have to go on the TE27. Late edit. When reassembling the rear calipers, it is absolutely impossible to do without the SST tool that compresses the spring. Fortunately still available from Toyota and only costs $12.

Ha! While you are off your arse, you can come and do some of mine!

I think 18RG's are harder to find so you might get more for it.

It won't be a GTV, just an LT or ST that had a 2TG stuck in it. A rebuild engine will go for $400-500. Twin solexes with manifold are $150 - $250. They always need rebuilding and the kits aren't cheap. But yes, even if you decide to break it, it sounds a good deal.

Leave the stock manifold on there. The Group A cars had to run them and got decent power. Plus they will never break, rust through or cause you insurance and cop dramas. Spend your money elsewhere.

Great to see it worked out for you. I love a mod that works and costs bugger all. Sigma's had to have some purpose in life......

I'm in this month. I might even actually join up at last.....

Yes, the shank diameter will be the same, at least it is the same as an AE86 etc. I doubt AE92 changed. BUT, take along a wheel nut to confirm the thread.