parrot

If the plug fits, you'll be right.

Acid dipping won't damage the alloy? I have some intra alloys I need to clean up, mainly crappy peeling lacquer.

Sob....... :D

Make sure you get one that has the matching plug to your loom. The later bigports have a different loom plug. Various map sensed Toyota's of the same era had the same MAP sensor, just with variations on the bracket. I have proper AE86 ones, AE82 twincam and another of some other Toyota I found at pickapart. All work just the same.

As if they would know. Cordless drill to drill out the spot welds and cordless angle grinder for the rest. Both available very cheaply at bunnings

You win!

This one was the best of the lot Shot with Z750i at 2009-08-04

Welcome! And more pics!! This could be a fight to the death in the scrabble for KE15/17 parts.........

I was there Sunday but didn't go near it. Was still there a few weeks ago. I posted this on the Bellett forum last year http://www.bellett.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=222 But as KEhendo notes, it is fairly well stripped now. It is in the back left corner as described above

GA61XX (an absolute legend if you ask me) over on Toymods has done a guide with lots of pics on how to convert a Nippondenso 2T or 2TG, 3T-c & 18R-c to an electronic dizzy very easily using donor parts from an RA60, RA65, RT133, or '85 RT142,( Not the '86 ) dizzy. Essentially you take the coil /ignitor plus the dizzy internals and install them into your recipient engines dizzy body. See his photo here I wonder if they will fit inside a K dizzy body..... I only have one K dizzy here in my K engine which I am not inclined to strip at the moment, but if you are keen, I picked up all the parts on the weekend for only $55 at my picky wrecker (and that included a complete dizzy as I was in a hurry). Full thread is here

Be a little careful with Gira. He is adept at not answering questions he doesn't want to. Or saying he'll send photos, then doesn't. You sitting there thinking, will I bid or not. He does sell on a bit of rubbish, but also sells good stuff too. YOU just need to sort the wheat from the chaff. Bit late now, cause this auction is nearly over.

That would be the one :wink: He was trying to give me some motivation to get on with mine, so we can get out on cruises together. Just may have worked........ God does that thing pull!

I have some new KE1x balljoints coming by post, and some new KE2x ones in the shed so can specifically measure and compare in a couple of days. I can tell you they are different part numbers.

Replied regarding rear quarter in your other thread. There are 4 KE30's there now, three in the Toyota row and one with the Commodores. All are reasonably poor panel wise other than the quarter I have told you about. Otherwise nothing new. There is a new very tidy RA60 there if anyone has one of those. There is also a complete T18 in the carpark for sale, no price shown. Has a bad repair to the C pillar however, at a quick glance. May find its way inside.

Just got home from having a quick blast as a passenger in one of the import jobbies. Mmmmmmmmm! Perhaps the KE15 can wait a bit and I'll do the TE27 first :wink:

There are 4 KE30's at Centre Rd this morning. A new one arrived while I was there, plus there is another one around in the Commodore row for some reason. Only one of the left rear quarters is reasonable (in the Toyota row). It has a wheel well full of water but I think that is since it arrived with the boot left open. It has a rust bubble at the wheel arch but otherwise is reasonably good, there is a small indentation near the petrol filler. I took a photo on my phone but can't download that on this computer, will try and remember at work tomorrow.

Never for general sale. There are a couple of private imports getting around. There are a few more "tarted up" KE25's around, or in the process of being built up.

I'll be there tomorrow so will have a look.

Finish the repair, paint etc, then you spray fish oil inside the cavity. It just puts a coating on the surface that resists water getting in. You can buy it in pressure pack cans these days, one will be enough. Really good to protect cavity areas you can't otherwise reach via a small hole. Once you get started, you will end up spraying the whole car with it.

The ONLY way to fix it for ever, is cut back to clean metal, weld in a replacement section and then fish oil it. Then make sure your boot doesn't leak. As well as checking the seal, make sure there is no water and muck getting in from the back of the wheel well. The section near the fuel filler is a little trickier as it has that swage line very close. Presumably that came about due to damage. It really depends on how large the damage and rust area is as to how you manage that.

Hi Caliba Have a look at Raven's thread. It explains all you need to know about KE2x dashpads. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=21963 Essentially the answer is they are different but they fit, and only one pad is now available new anyway.

I'll pay that! It's called a joddler or joggler. As described, it puts a very small step into metal sheet when fabricating panel repair sections. This particular model can also punch a neat hole so you can "spot weld" with the mig.

If you look at Adam's photo above, the top O ring is the critical sealing ring, BUT if the two insulators aren't sitting right, the injector will be too loose allowing the injector to move about and possibly not seat correctly - thats bad. You can't see the bottom insulator in the photo very well, but the ones there are screwed. Worthwhile checking you have the correct fuel rail spacers also.

VERY close. It does do that, but has a more interesting main purpose.

Come on rolladudes, someone must have an idea what it is?