parrot

Absolutely as per Felix regarding spare radiator hoses & water as above, and at very least stuff to block off any heater hoses that blow on the way. Probably some brake fluid as the seals have probably dried out and you may need to top up. Don't give them a workout, and make sure calipers/cylinders haven't seized.

And if it doesn't work, you can stick a regular gasket back on.

Presumably any EFFECTIVE method of reducing heat to the inlet manifold without reduction of inlet charge / exhaust gas flow has to be worth a try. I say go for it.

You can definitely use the stuff you have there. JDM or ADM doesn't matter. Only problem is if you try to use late bigport sensors / injectors etc on an early bigport loom. They have different plugs and won't fit. "Early" plugs are generally yellow or green, with greyish injector plugs. i.e. what you have. But that loom is a mess. If you can wait, I would recommend sourcing a rear wheel drive loom from somewhere. They come up often enough and don't generally cost much.

Coil / ignitor, dizzy, map sensor, TVIS actuator VSV and tank, cold start injector (on plenum), intake air temp sensor (on plenum), fuel pressure regulator (on fuel rail), fuel pulsation damper (on fuel rail), throttle position sensor, TVIS diaphragm, block on back of the head with start injector time switch & water temp sensor. You don't need any of the idle up VSV's (2) unless you intend to make the effort to wire them up. Most conversions don't bother.

For what it's worth, I went through that magazine and cannot find a table like it. Potentially someone has read through it and interpreted it. Realistically, it doesn't matter. You wont get a AFM bigport loom here, and even if the motor originally came from somewhere as an AFM engine, you would likely never know and it would run perfectly with a MAP loom. I'll see what I can do re photo's. The detailed wiring looms are here (although for an AE86) and an excellent more basic wiring diagram is found in the Diagnostics manual.

There were no ADM AFM bigports, and I have never seen a JDM AFM bigport. Having said that, Toyota produced many variants for many markets. And you can never rely on the cam covers! I have that magazine and will check it, and also check my Levin & Trueno Mag collection.

ce7tt Bigport looms are MAP sensed except for USDM, so you can get looms from UK for example, as I did. UKDM ECU's have blue stickers by the way, so you can't rely on that. You need to check the part number. JDM looms are MAP sensed, I have one of those too. Bear in mind, that in Japan, 4AGE's were also fitted in Celica's and Corona's, so a JDM computer may have come from one of them. God knows which looms they may work with. ADM looms out of AE82's are easy to come by and it really isn't worth the hassle and pain of trying to patch up some one else's butchery. If you decide on a AE82 loom, just get another one. When converting to rear wheel drive, you need to lengthen some parts of it I believe. Smallport looms / ECU's have different ECU plugs when compared to bigport. Don't go AFM, there is a reason US guys are always trying to convert to MAP. The intake doesn't relate to the MAP sensor at all so intake issues are separate. Vacuum is fed from the plenum to the MAP sensor. AFM obviously does impact intake. If using a MAP bigport loom, you just use an AE82 MAP sensor. I believe the ADM computers don't work in AE86 engine looms due to injector firing pattern differences. Finally, an AE86 bigport loom actually consists of three separate sections, the engine loom, the lights and charging loom, and the under dash loom. The lights and charging loom contains part of the idle up circuit. The dash loom contains the circuit open and EFI relay amongst others. To get it really running well, you need all three. Otherwise you compromise somewhere. You need to decide what you plan to do with it. Modify the engine very far, and the standard ECU will struggle. Then you are back where you started - modify to an aftermarket ECU, megasquirt, piggyback etc?

Agreed ^^^^^. I didn't really understand that either. I don't think we got isky cams in Australia, but you could always contact them to get some idea of the specs. http://www.iskycams.com/ Can I also suggest you have a look over at http://3tcgarage.com/ There are a lot of people on there with lots of T motor knowledge.

Untrue. There have been a few threads about gearing lately. There is a plastic outer gear that fits into the gearbox on a spindle shaft and can be easily removed from where the speedo cable attaches to the gearbox. Typically 19, 20, 21 or 22 teeth at least on a T series. Then there is an inner steel gear (typically 5 or 6 teeth) that is located within the extension housing of the gearbox so more complicated to change. My mixing and matching gears, you can achieve the desired ratio. Have a search for the thread that describes how to calculate what you need. Gears are about $50 new but you can easily pull them out of boxes at wreckers. K series plastic gears are larger in diameter than T series plastic gears so not interchangeable. Commonly an auto box will have a different ratio than a manual.

Do not get any sort of button clutch for street driving. If you do, you will regret it. Button type clutches of any type are for race cars. As above, you will likely destroy the rest of your driveline, possibly have an accident trying to drive normally about town, and almost certainly bring yourself to the attention of you know who..... :bash: Heavy duty will be more than adequate for what you propose whilst retaining driveability.

:bash: Amen to that.

My very first car was a Datsun 1200 sedan and it got absolutely hammered. God I loved that car. Unfortunately got written off when I T boned a Nissan Urvan that did a right hand turn in front of me from the left hand lane of a dual carriageway. Dickhead. So then I bought a TA22........

Years ago I went to a specialist plastics place in West Melbourne and they turned up some KE17 lower arm bushes on a lathe. That was for a car that ran slicks so whatever type of urethane it was, was intended to have virtually no give.

Yes you will! And it seems we now have even more to talk about!!

Very nice, just been catching up on the last few months. Do you reckon the threaded rod is going to hold? i would be worried it might tip over. It is a great idea though. Bit of a job with that rust, you seem a dab hand with a welder, had you considered fixing it yourself? I have got myself a MIG and joddler and am quite looking forward to fixing a few things......one day.

This is my first toy http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1855/dsc00717w.jpg Built to Levin GT spec with various engine and suspension upgrades. Nothing bodged, all factory, especially the wiring. Nothing radical, I like things to be as factory as possible, with modifications within period, if you know what I mean. At the moment is at the end of a slow rebuild, and really only needs the rear calipers rebuilt and the guards put back on. Car 1985 ADM Red with sunroof Drivetrain 7 rib block, bottom end never touched (replaced a 3 rib block installed initially) Head ported and polished as per TRD bible instructions TRD 0.8mm head gasket Wade 268 degree cams, vernier cam pulleys. 2 1/4" mandrel exhaust (was meant to be 2" mandrel but they stuffed up) with cat TRD engine and gearbox mounts All rear drive ancillaries, water outlets, alt brackets etc standard Jap ECU with 185cc injectors but will be replaced with 225cc 1GGTE injectors TRD adjustable Group N ECU standard cast exhaust manifold reduction starter factory AE86 EFI tank, fuel pump and bracket plus GT fuel lines Camry V6 twin core radiator with electric fan ARC 'induction box' (standard Jap air cleaner for engineering) Mocal remote oil filter setup to setrab 13 row cooler UK engine loom GT engine ancillary loom (lights, charging, idle up etc) Drivetrain T-50 with JDM bellhousing Some heavy duty clutch, can't remember RA60 hard clutch line Stock LSD 4.3 cwp in GT T series disc rear Suspension Front: TRD springs on conventional strut with adjustable KYB inserts TRD rubber Castor tops Standard steering arms (power steer arms made steering too heavy) urethane bushed steering rack TRD front swaybar Rear: Low king springs koni red adjustable dampers TRD bushed trailing arms TRD rear swaybar whiteline adjustable panhard rod Brakes: Jap standard front vented brake RDA slotted rotors Jap standard rear disc RDA slotted rotors Mintex m1144 pads all around, fronts MDB 1193, rears MDB 1198 cusco brake master cylinder brace Goodridge stainless brake lines Jap brake booster and GT proportioning valve Factory GT handbrake lever! (there is a difference) Interior JZA70R Recaro's Twincam steering wheel Ditched the aircon removed interior sound deadening Jap under dash loom UK market dash cluster (240kmh) GTV door cards Other bits and bobs: Standard factory GT Front lip and rear spoiler WEDS Sport Albino's 14 x 6 wheels plus have a set of standard factory 14 x 6 Intra alloys old school strut brace Headlights, indicators Jap GT levin lights with eyelids, levin tail lights levin postbox grille with factory foglights late folding electric mirrors Number two is a KE25 shell http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8710/dsc00716wvh.jpg Shot with DSC-W35 at 2009-06-15 Currently looks like this! Was to be my next project and I have been sourcing all the various bits to turn it into a 3TG TE27, again with everything factory. Have virtually everything I need now, such as engine / gearbox crossmembers, transmission tunnel console, dash cluster, gauge clusters, master cylinder setups, pedal box, engines and gearboxes, badges and exterior trim. Main task recently has been roofing over the storage area. The shell is very good with minimal rust in the usual battery area only. However everything has been tossed up in the air as I recently acquired this (thanks SilverRA23), which will become my first priority once the AE86 gets out of the garage: http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9467/dsc00715w.jpg Was a great surprise when this became available, and I have always wanted one after helping a mate who used to race one with a 4AGE. After extending my roof over it, plans for it include some fairly minor rust repair (mainly surface rust) and an engine rebuild. Had been laid up for a few years before it resurfaced. This car is well documented in this thread. One other slight possibility is that I have located another one owner KE25 2 speed auto nearby owned by an elderly lady that has always been garaged etc and is immaculate. She doesn't want to sell it yet, but by the time I am ready to do the TE27, it may have fallen into my clutches! Anyway, time will tell. Why my love affair with Corolla's? This is me, many years ago. http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/6854/ke20mp7.jpg

Bear in mind, that you need to account not only for length of control arm, but also balljoint pin diameter (or substituting a different balljoint to suit both control arm and appropriate length steering arm) when considering different control arms. Apparently both length and thickness are important, or so my wife assures me. 8/ Messing with front end geometry is not as simple as you might think.

No - but I will try and find out for you.

Cressida arms in a TA22 gave about 2.5 degrees.

There was a 3K powered car at Historic Winton the other week. Kehendo had a good yarn to him so he may know more about it.

Is that a $7000 price tag in the window?!

I promise not to block up a general thread with anymore "car talk", it's illegal because the car doesn't comply with the ADR's thus requires engineering to certify the car is safe.

Sorry Trav, not having a go at you. This topic really 'grinds my gears' You may recall this thread. What your mechanic tells you is not necessarily true. Only the standards division of your state road traffic authority - in writing!

That is a pretty impressive collection, but you are owned by Dave. I couldn't believe it when I saw his little collection. I was even more amazed he managed to move them all.