parrot

CCCV was always better than TCCA though :)

Yeah I saw this recently too. PMP020 was after some recently, ask him as I am sure he will know which model and if there a fitment issues. I saw a set on a SAAB at Centre Rd wreckers (Melb) a few weeks ago, but don't know what the model is called.

If you cut it right against the plastic fitting, then when you remove the remnant left behind, you should have enough left to just reattach.

Ask your question on aeu86.org No Charmant's in Australia and the Euro guys seem fairly aware of Charmants.

I had a serious think about this too then forgot about it. See here

As far as I know, the dimensions of an excel radiator are the same whether they are fitted into an Excel, an AE86 or a KE35......... Also information about what sort of mounts they have maybe useful. Perhaps I'll just fug off and let him work it out for himself.

Not really. The AE86 rad is pretty wide. so most of your fins would be blocked by the front valance. May also run into problems physically fitting it in. I presume the ones you are looking at are twin core rather than single core like a standard AE86 rad. There would be better options. Early Hyundai excel radiators have become popular in AE86's, are narrower, twin core, available and cheap. Maybe a good option but research it first. Plenty of stuff on AE86drivingclub about these including dimensions.

Have a search around on here. Would be surprised if there wasn't something, it is pretty comprehensive.

I have a similiar issue with my KE25 in that someone has put some bog into a dent in the A pillar. Eventually I will dig it out and see what sort of damage there is, hopefully it will just need a gentle pull out. I have actually cut out an A pillar from a KE20 I found at pickapart to get a good idea of how it is constructed in cross section, and surprisingly it is reasonably complex.

3-23 is just type. The beauty of JPG over PDF is that just by clicking on the image you can enlarge it with total clarity

No worries. This is the "Body Group" book (No. 98412-1), and the only KE1x book I have, beside an owners manual. It does have more so if you are after something specific let me know and I will have a look through. I am just around the corner from Motor Book World and not surprisingly no the guys in there pretty well. Can have a look on Monday if you like. The electrical section is pretty good showing the Harness layouts, what the plugs look like and location of these, plus the wiring colours. Everything is black and white. There are about 9 pages dedicated to the harness and general wiring diagrams. If you hang on a bit, I will scan up some more pages. I'll let you tizz them up!

There is more detail, especially for the loom, but best to get your own copy, or I'll be here all day.

Yes, as with all early Toyota manuals, it is pretty detailed. If no one else has already done so, I will scan it and post up by tonight. The electrical diagram is on one small page and a little hard to read. Are there particular areas of concern? It is well worth buying a copy if you plan on getting a car. Try Motor Book World in Canterbury, they usually have one.

That door is the most amazing effort I have seen for a long time. Brilliant.

Always new. It will undoubtedly receive damage when removing it, even if you don't notice it. Plus they are very cheap anyway. You don't want a wheel bearing seizing.

Mmmmm shiny. Where's all the rust gone? which way did you go with 4AGE engine mounts?

No, but the spring pushes the hat against the strut top. Locking the strut top enables you to put some oomph into turning the nut without worrying about trying to stop the complete strut twisting on the floor. If you are chucking the inserts, you can hold them however you like.

Lie the strut on the floor and put a bar between two of the strut top studs with the other end on the floor to lock the strut top. Then try to undo the nut. More often than not it will undo. don't be tempted to put vise grips or what not onto the piston rod. Worse case scenario then yes you will need a rattle gun. Make sure whatever you do that your foot, or car is not in the direction the strut top will go when the nut comes off...... Spring compressors are very cheap to buy and just make things easier when reassembling, assuming you have standard height springs to go back in.

Seriously, I reckon no more gaps would work well. Just used about 4 tubes of it on my house.

Surprised you haven't seen this, thorough as only Toymods can be

The reason is that the speedo drive in the gearbox needs to be the correct ratio for your speedo. If you unscrew the speedo cable from the gearbox, and undo the 10ml bolt holding the little plate, you can pull out the speedo drive. This is a rod with a plastic gear on the end. For a 4AGE T50, from memory there are 19, 21 and 22 tooth gears. Inside the box is the gear this meshes with, either a 5 or 6 tooth. You need to mix and match to suit your application. Jonny Rochester wrote up a thread on this on ae86drivingclub, including how to calculate what combination you need. Then you need to locate the gear you need. Also from memory, the K gearbox has a larger diameter plastic gear so you can't just pop that in instead. Search for the thread on ae86dc or PM Jonny for the link.