parrot

Have a look at the various thermostat housings from assorted Toyotas of that period, SV11's SV21's, AE82, cressida's etc etc. I assume you have a K motor. I would not be at all surprised if you could find one that fits the K bottom housing and this means you have the thermo switch already in place. Of course you also need to check the top hose outlet direction is suitable. I had a factory rear drive cooling setup on my AE86 4AGE, and have incorporated a 4AC AE82 top section to do just this. Various other Toyota engine types had top sections that fitted the 4AGE just as well, only the hose outlet wasn't pointing where I wanted it. Bolt pattern was identical.

Not necessarily. Factory 4AGE setups in AE82's and AE86s use push on fittings with a decent clamp, i.e. not a worm drive clamp. As for the trans cooler, I can't say.

I did mine this way. With this you use a Toyota thermo switch available on any mid 80's on Toyota. If I managed to work it out, you can.

Do they still specify the tare (?) weight on the rego papers or rego sticker? That would be the legally recognised weight from transports perspective.

I'm a Mobil 1 5W30 person myself

And that is what I will be using!

I use mobil 1 synthetic in the 4AGE which is 5W - 30, though I think you can get different rates in it now. For the 3TG I will use a 20w 50 preferably something from Penrite. I swear by Penrite from my old 2T days.

I think you will find virtually any late 70's onwards Toyota carb will have one. Screws into the body and has two wires (sometimes one) coming off it. If you have a look in a Toyota manual, they are identified as a fuel solenoid. I have R, T and A series manuals and they all have them.

It's a fuel cut solenoid.

Too many bongs? Go to your local doctor.

I understand re the solenoid, point being it could be simply wired up as an extra run on safeguard. When setting the timing, make sure the vacuum advance is disconnected (i.e. remove the vacuum hose temporarily).

Make sure the timing is set properly. 5K's probably had a solenoid on the carby to cut fuel when the ignition is turned off. I am guessing that if the 5K carb went in with the conversion, that this was never wired up. But that is more an extra safeguard. I would check your timing first.

Sigh.......I have so got to get on with finishing one of my cars. Mind you, one isn't even started yet.

First of all I would suggest you are wasting your time with a K motor unless it is a really serious build. Second, any cooler matrix made for an S13 will be way to big for a K series. If you do fit one, would be critically important to fit a thermostat otherwise the oil will always be too cold, which is very bad. Seriously, it is a waste of time. If you are still really keen, go here and download the catalogue which has a lot of relevant info about how, why and design issues for your system. Plus every part you can imagine.

Yes that is a points distributor and yes that is a stock fuel pump

Went to pick pay n go Ringwood & Centre Rd today and very little of interest about. Couple of KE35's at Centre Rd, the one I mentioned above, plus another scrappy one. Nothing KE1x or 2x. No twinky's. Did finally get an RA28 diff at Ringwood though. They also have a TA22 there, hit pretty hard in the front, enough to bend the gearbox crossmember.

Port and polish the head, shave for compression. reasonable duration cam, twin sidedraft carbs, extractors and 2 inch exhaust, lightened flywheel, recurved distributor and it will fly. Mine did! You would need to decide whether you need to rebuild the bottom end or not - I didn't, and it survived years of spirited daily driving and club motorsport events of all kinds. Another very good site is http://www.toyota3tc.com which is US based

Virtually all of the above is meaningless. There are innumerable differences between the cars. And remember JDM can mean 4AC S series diff and "ADM" taillights too. All JDM didn't have 4AGE's and disc rear ends. The only reliable indicator is the build plate, checking that the frame number matches. The info on here can be simply read to interpret the specs as built. So many cars are now getting about with various bolt in bits such as diffs, engines, tail lights, door cards etc. that such signs mean nothing. When I first started to convert mine over in 1990, it was easier to get "JDM" tailights than "ADM" from an import wrecker. If it really is a JDM 4AGE etc, better indicators of originality besides the build plate, include correct fuel supply and return lines, correct underdash looms and so on which are rarely changed in conversions.

I suggest you contact Whiteline directly. I received crappy illegible useless instructions, printed crooked across the page, when I got some AE86 whiteline adjustable bars in a group buy on another Corolla forum a while back. Spoke to this guy. Within 24 hrs had excellent instructions with clear photo's emailed to me. Wojtek Rogulski Technical Support --------------------------------------------------------------- * Tel: +61 2 9603 0111 * Fax: +61 2 9820 2500 * Email: [email protected] If he isn't there, give them a call.

Not sure if anyone else has posted it, but there is a restoration article of a TE5X? that apparently ran in the Monte Carlo rally once. A Danish guy has it. Is in Classics Monthly December 2008 edition. It's an English magazine by the way.edit, may actually be a TE37? If it isn't a KE/TE2x or AE86, I wouldn't know!

The USDM loom is different in a lot of ways from the RHD cars. Go here for a full copy of the diagnosis manual. Work through it logically.

Get a T50 from an AE86. Be aware the Celica T50 is sufficiently different and not worth the hassle. The AE86 T50 has two bellhousings, which differ only in that the clutch slave swaps sides to keep it away from the exhaust manifold for the 4AGE. The 4AGE has 4AG stamped at the top of the bellhousing and the 4AC ADM box has 3A stamped at the top. Not personally familiar with the AE71 4AC box but someone will know. The W box won't be necessary in a 1200 and adds weight and size. If you decide to turbo it then that may be different.

:jamie: :no2: :yes: Looks like I shall have to edit my sig, how embarrassment.

Bummer. I would be keen some other time. Really need to get the AE86 back on the road. Would have been a good loosen up run for your beast though. Keen to hear more!

That's good to know. Had been thinking seriously of buying my seals from him. Does anyone now if the Thai ebay guys seals are any better or are they the same ones?