parrot

ADSL2+ or die! Sorry about that. Always takes a couple of goes to get imageshack right. If you keep clicking on the image, it will enlarge.

Hey Cameron, don't break down on my account, but would love to see those pictures. Reading the article again, they make a lot of the fact that the car pinged badly unless they retarded the ignition and ran high octane fuel. You would have to wonder how much compression it had. Clearly in those days, being seen to win was everything. The win had clearly served its purpose, and by the time they were disqualified, joe public neither knew or cared. Nothing has changed really has it. Also, the car moved from Victoria to NSW so quite likely the car would have eventually moved across to NSW registration

Oh all right. This car appears on the front cover of Wheels July 1968. Front wheels off the ground as it flies along at incredible speed over a dirt crest. The headline: Japanese cars - How tough are they. Wheels had bought the car from AMI as a long term road test car. At that time it was a dark red colour. It had been a works entry at the 1967 Gallaher 500 mile race (Bathurst) driven by Barry Ferguson and Brian Sampson where it won Class A. Unfortunately months later it was excluded from the results for having what is described as a "fiddled" cylinder head. Early example of a K-B head perhaps? From wiki: Class A The smallest class was for under cars the cost less $1,800. It was made up of Datsun 1000 and 1300, Hillman Imp, Holden Torana and Toyota Corolla. The class was thus taken out by a works datsun 1000, with a second works Corolla three overall places and one lap behind for second in class (Dick Thurston and Bill Buckle) Where is it now? Car has some interesting looking grille badges, presumably something to do with its Gallaher entry I'll scan up a copy of the report today and post it up tonight.

Sorry I can't tell the difference between KE10's and 11's. Does anyone own this still? If so, it has an interesting history.

Redwarf; I realise it has been a while since your post, but do you have any whispers as to what is proposed in Victoria? I have 3 cars I will be looking to register, 2 will comply and one has a couple of years to wait so may get normal reg; or get put to the back of the shed for a while. They are never going to be daily drivers, but would be nice not to be totally locked in to club events only.

True, it's always very easy (and fun) to spend someone elses money for them. :no2:

What, no diamond encrusted Crown monogram on each piece! Things like this are meant to happen, and are telling you that you need to keep this car

PHOTOS And i will withdraw the call for ban!

I VOTE BAN!

Well seems to need a bit of work. I suppose you need to decide whether you can manage it financially and time wise. Remember - it doesn't need to be immaculate when you do it. But if you do decide to sell it on, at least you saved it from destruction for someone else. And you can plan for later on when the time is better.

This same thing has been posted about eleventy billion times......

If it is the same AE71 wagon I saw a couple of weeks ago, it was a manual..........and the pedal box was gone! Before anyone gets too excited.

KE2x is a lot narrower in the front end. It is a lot more complicated than just shortening something and bolting it in. If not done properly, it will completely screw up your steering geometry.

Can i suggest you have a chat with Dfunkt. He seems to have a talent for cryptic registrations...... Woops, I see he has been here already. I don't understand any of the suggestions so far by the way. Must be a generational thing. At least you won't have to worry about your dad understanding it.

I've got a cusco master cylinder brace on my AE86. It bolts to the strut tower and stops the master cylinder (and therefore the booster) moving forward.

You can locate the light and gauge at the same take off. Just buy a T piece take off, then screw your gauge sender and the light sender to respective sides of the T piece.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dellorto-DHLA40-serv...id=p3286.c0.m14 Don't be at all surprised if this is a cheaper option. All the info you need (plus more) is here http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/prod...artsectionID=62

Don't worry, I am all for machining down flywheels and will have no hesitation in getting mine done. In Melbourne, I would go to RG Baker just off Middleborough Rd (Engine machine shop) as they are local to me and he really knows his stuff. R G Baker Factory 9, 11 Clarice Road, Box Hill, VIC 3128 p: (03) 98991400 Any reputable Engine machine shop will know the drill. If you are in Dandenong, go and see BGT Brakes. They are a serious Brake place that specialise in racing applications. B.G.T. Brake Services 10 Webster St, Dandenong, VIC 3175 p: (03) 97946787, (03) 97922806 If they don't do it themselves, they will send it out to someone that does great work.

And after all the kerfuffle when someone else dared to ask about machining down a standard flywheel! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=30826 You know you are all going to end up burning in the fires of hell....... :bash:

Yes, any T series diff as fitted to an AE86, TE72, various Celica's, Corolla (in some markets) will fit as per my post above. They all have various track widths, with a TA22 being the narrowest and closest to a KE20. Some very early TA22's came with leaf sprung rears, otherwise you will need to modify as I said above. Also the US had T series rears in leaf sprung KE2x's. Watch you don't get an S series diff as fitted to some AE86's if that is where your diff is coming from. If you are planning to install an LSD to whatever diff rear you choose, bear in mind you may need to slightly shorten the rear axles compared to a conventional diff in the same housing. Not sure where you are located, but your choices may be reduced depending on what was available in your market.

Yes is the short answer. But you need to remove the trailing arm brackets, spring seats and have the leaf spring mounts added. You will also need to have the housing and axle shafts shortened, as the AE86 diff housing is to wide for a KE20 (track). Depending on what sort of tailshaft you have at the moment, you may need to alter the rear yoke to suit the T series pattern.

Hardest bit of putting in AE86 struts is locating the TE27 steering arms. AE86 struts will not bolt up to a KE steering arm. Bolt spacing is wrong, and any other arm you use with the correct bolt spacing will have the incorrect size hole for the balljoint pin. And the arm will be too long. You can source TE27 steering arms from Japan or the USA. Usually not cheap, and relatively uncommon. BUT, AE86 struts and brakes gives you lots of damping options and pad choice. Some background can be found here

I would be looking at getting them resleeved at a brake and clutch place. If you go they US ebay route, just be careful of the postage. The crowd selling them has pretty exxy postage.

Parking money no doubt. You planning on retiring with your bag of 5 - 10 cent pieces? ;)

I reckon Kate sneaks out when you are asleep at night and goes cruising.