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carbonboy

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Everything posted by carbonboy

  1. carbonboy
    Some more progress, solved the mystery of how to connect standard accelerator cable to the carburetors. Some re-routing of the cable, one of the standard cable brackets & a DIY bracket later. This may not be permanent, because the pull-wheel thingy that the cable rotates on these is a smaller size than the standard 2A-C item. Another thing on the 'Get it running, then fine-tune' list, it's becoming a big list!
  2. carbonboy
    That looks like a thermo-sensor that attaches to a vacuum motor to open/close a flap in the inlet tract to allow either warm air from the exhaust riser pipe into the air filter, or air from the inlet pipe. 2A-C & 4A-C's were fitted with them at least, I recently discovered my old one was locked shut, meaning my engine was always sucking in hot air from the exhaust manifold.
  3. carbonboy
    Progress has been happening, slowly. Wiring is 95% completed, then testing to make sure my switched 12v etc are correct, then wrapped back up in conduit. Had a small hold up with working out how exactly to wire the MSD to the distributor, a few back & forth emails to their help-centre later all was sorted. Have to say that they were most helpful, despite being on the other side of the world. Also made headway into retaining the emissions systems, albeit modified. It's hard to take photos to show what I've done, so my dodgy Paint picture will have to do. The purge line from charcoal canister that normally goes to the throttle body is now teed into the PCV feed to the catch can, then all that vapour goes to the intake plate (the black plastic thing the trumpet screw to). On the other side of the intake plate, I have a hose with a tee piece to run the vapours between each pair of trumpets where I'm hoping it gets sucked in. Will have to keep an eye on how dirty the filters get/how quickly. The catch can is mounted next to the vacuum canister, up underneath the intake manifold, was a pain to fit but won't attract attention. It's also stuffed with stainless steel scourers to act as a 'scrubbing medium' to help seperate the oil from the vapour. There's no return line to the sump on the oil catch can at the moment, have the fittings etc, just want to see how much builds up & see if it's a need. Engine bay is coming up nice & subtle, the only thing you can easily spot is the pressure gauge on the fuel pressure regulator.
  4. carbonboy
    Got my head around the circuits, most of them anyway. Struggling with the distributor pickup wiring & the heat to be honest.
  5. carbonboy
    Spent most of today A ) Trying not to melt & B ) Getting my head around wiring. I'm horrible at it, not horrible as in dangerous/set things on fire, I just get confused easily. Wiring diagrams are cool & all, but it only all really makes sense when laid out in front of me. No fancy hidden wiring here, just keeping what I have & need, adding what I need & don't have & removing what I don't need. Then just fresh conduit & tape, make it neat.
  6. carbonboy
    Forty-plus degree days suck for working on cars, thankfully I was in the shade underneath finishing the fuel pump setup. Made brackets from 3mm plate steel & used existing fuel tank strap mounting points. Used a spotlight mounting bracket I bought twelve years ago but never actually fitted as a mounting bracket for fuel pump. Pump is mounted on rubber bushes so that vibration doesn't kill it or transfer to the vehicle body. Sounds good in theory I guess. Connected hoses & earth wire. All mounted. From tank/inlet side. To engine bay/outlet side. Sits pretty flush with the tank, hopefully will act as a protective cover for the pump too. Seats, centre console & dash are all stripped out ready for wiring fun-times. Had plans on starting tonight, but thinking cold shower, dinner & bed is the go. Crawled in & out from under the car more times today than I care to think about.
  7. carbonboy
    Thankfully, I've managed to learn enough about what I need to do so that the bulk of the work is going to be pulling apart/replacing the interior to run/conceal said wiring. Slowly but surely. It still looks a little weird to me (not just because I only saw it on a stand for months), I mean, look at the rest of the car... :lol: For the environmentally concerned, I am making an effort to keep/modify/use the equivalent of the factory emissions/pollution gear. The 2A-C had a breather from the cam-cover & a vent line from the charcoal canister (c/c)to the air filter housing & a line from the carburetor to the c/c. The rest of the standard vacuum lines are for distributor timing advance & other things I've gotten rid of. Running the lines from the carburetors to the c/c is pretty simple, the vent line from it & the cam-cover vent that are meant to go to an air filter housing are a little trickier. If I can dig out a catch-can I have somewhere, may even use that.
  8. carbonboy
    Slight revision of the vacuum line for the brake booster, instead of the steel tube running horizontally along the firewall to a single intake runner... It now runs vertically along the firewall with a little 'custom' bending to suit, managed to use one of the steering rack shield bolts to mount it. It then connects to the distribution block, which has a line to all four intake runners. Also got the ignition coil mounted, that was a bigger drama than anticipated. Now working on getting the fuel regulator mounted somewhere where it doesn't stick out like the proverbial dogs balls. Once that's in, finish off the fuel pump setup & then it's time for wiring... :blinks: ..... Bugger.
  9. carbonboy
    For now to get it all running, just going to leave it as is. Afterwards I'm thinking about enclosing the filters with some sheet aluminium/similar & running some generic black Ebay style air-duct from the bottom of that to near the fuse-box area. Will have to 'squish' both filters a little, but it could be worse.
  10. carbonboy
    Starting to resemble a functional engine bay. I always knew clearance would be tight...they fit, that's all that matters! Aside from the clutch master, all good. Again, I knew this would happen. I can live with it. The 'trumpets' are still a good 40-50mm from the clutch master.
  11. carbonboy
    That's a sick looking Datsun!
  12. carbonboy
    Cheers man, funny you should say that... ;) Thankyou mate, I'm just hoping it works & doesn't fall apart in 6 months time! Tuning so far has just been changing the jet sizes (really need to get myself an O2 wideband setup ASAP) & adjusting the throttle butterfly's so that they all open the same amount at the same time. Started to bolt parts up, the driveshafts were connected first, then the alternator setup. Had some fear about it fouling on the chassis/steering rack/column but all is good. Then fitted the heat-shield equipped 2A-C starter motor, then went to fit the exhaust manifold.....this is where the fun started. With the 2A-C starter, the 20v headers do not fit, the pipe from cylinder 1 hits the starter where it comes across to merge with the pipe from cylinder 4. Okay, fine, 'borrowed' the starter motor from Sudi & while the 20v headers do fit, damn they're close! :blinks: Refitted the 2A-C starter & grabbed an old set of 16v factory headers, yep, it all fits but damn they're heavy & butt-ugly. I also have a set of headers with the same ID as the 20v item, similar design & clear the 2A-C starter, but it is one piece from the head to the catalytic converter & an absolute PITA to fit/remove. So, while I figure out what the heck I'm going to do exactly, here's Part 1 of the video clip I've been gradually putting together. Almost as much work as the engine itself! :laff:
  13. carbonboy
    Much waiting, frustration & dramas later, it's dinner time.
  14. carbonboy
    That turned out to be such an anti-climax. :( Flywheel went on, clutch disc went on, pressure plate went on, went to setup the release fork & bearing...the bearing from the kit doesn't fit the fork. Spent ages searching for 'other size' clutch fork, finally found it & it's broken. So under floodlights, I hauled all of the above items in the photo back into the shed. Just got back from sourcing a new bearing, none in stores, waiting until 3pm for it to arrive from main warehouse. Literally champing at the bit to do this! Lesson re-learned: Check all of the things! Edit: Killing time waiting for bearing, have never been quite happy with the heater setup on an AE80/2, switched to an AE90 unit. Will just look neater IMHO.
  15. carbonboy
  16. carbonboy
    Have yet to completely rebuild a starter/alternator, but it doesn't seem so hard. Give a go I say! :y: Mostly just degreaser & a wire brush by hand to clean things, hose off or wipe with damp rag. Parts usually cop a blast from the air gun to clean out any hard to get to bits. Sneaky edit: Leaving the shed in 5...4...3...2...
  17. carbonboy
    Being able to laugh at it is all part of owning a slow car! :D The distributor looked like it needed a bit of a clean up, using this guide from ToyMods, I stripped down the distributor: http://www.toymods.o...or-rebuild.html . Got it to this stage. Everything was shagged, a trip to local bearing supplier & a mere $18.35 later. The smaller o-ring came in the VRS kit, but is easy enough to source, the dimensions are 30mm ID, 36mm OD & 3mm thick. The oil seal dimensions are 10mm ID, 20mm OD & 5mm thick. The bearing dimensions are 10mm ID, 30mm OD & 9mm thick. The larger o-ring dimensions are 80mm ID, 86mm OD & 3mm thick. Just for reference, a 2A-C/4A-C distributor has a 12mm ID oil seal, so not interchangeable. :( All back together, hopefully solving the common problem of 4A-GE distributors leaking oil everywhere. :)
  18. carbonboy
    I would comment further on that whole Google+/YouTube link-all-the-things drama, but methinks that's more for the WGMG thread.
  19. carbonboy
    Cheers mate, hopefully you find it as amusing as I do that this is going in the front of Blue Thing this time. :laff: Power figures...honestly, if it makes around the same as a healthy, standard EFI bigport I'll be happy. From what I have seen people achieving in the past, around 70kw/95hp (+/- 10%) at the wheels seems realistic, having things running healthily is the main objective. I don't see it making more than that, the internals are all standard & the compression ratio of 9.4:1 would only have increased by whatever 0.9mm height decrease (head/block skim, thinner H/G) would gain. Having said that, I'm never sure whether to trust dyno-sheets or not, I prefer to look at them as a means of checking all is good i.e air/fuel ratios, ignition timing. Maybe if I had a 500kw+ Supra I could enjoy the bragging rights, I have a little 1.6L FWD Corolla. :lol: The next obvious upgrade are the camshafts, eventually. If this engine runs & runs well, it'll make almost twice the power of a 2A-C, gonna take a bit of getting used to! Again. :blush:
  20. carbonboy
    Nope, maybe tomorrow. Buuut, I did strip down the carburetors, gave them all a good clean out & reassembled them. All the moving parts felt better than before, so I can only believe I didn't stuff up. Another benefit of doing this was I got myself an education on carburetors, the terminology & what does what. Having never dismantled one, let alone four, things make a lot more sense now. While they were dismantled, courtesy of the kit I got with the carbs I swapped the 140 Main jets to 160 & the 35 Idle jets to 38. A set of 40's would be nice, so would the spare cash to afford a jet drill-set. ;) A big thankyou goes to EvanG for his help, having someone with experience to guide you through the bits you don't quite know about is incredibly useful! :y: Some grinding required on the airbox-half to allow better filter fitment. Plenty of room in the filters for longer stacks down the track, the firewall maybe not so much. Once all the brightly coloured stuff goes, I'll be happy. About the only way I'll be happier is when I'm hearing this running. Distributor is next, then engine bay - ho!
  21. carbonboy
    I suppose I'd better do something about that battery tray... Rust converter, how I missed ye'... Primer. It sure as heck isn't a perfect match, but it was sitting in the cupboard & is close enough. Better than rust at any rate! While interrupted by rain, sorted out the vacuum distribution block & mounting. A piece of scrap steel & a recycled air-conditioning bracket later, done. I've been saying this to myself the last few days, but hopefully engine in tomorrow... *sigh*
  22. carbonboy
    I'm hoping it works! :yes: The air gap crossed my mind, those blue rubber things pressed against whatever starter-motor it was on, so I just copied that. Might see how it goes with the headers once in the engine bay, I'm using 20v Blacktop headers which are slightly different to the 16v item, suffice to say it's tight near the starter-motor. If I can get more of a gap, I will. :y: Alternator setup (the easiest option is to obtain a 4A-GE alternator/bracket/wiring plug, but, if you have to): V30 Camry power-steering pump bracket, bolts straight up. Made a spacer plate from 6mm steel, which was bitch to cut with a hacksaw I might add. If Hitachi would deliver the replacement brushes for my grinder that I ordered 5 weeks ago, that'd be great. Drill/tap holes to attach standard Twin Cam adjustment bracket. Bolt on standard adjustment bracket, bolting it to the standard location is close but no cigar. Attach alternator, minor wiring loom changes required but simple really. Please note you need to grind the front/drivers-side side of the alternator bracket down 1mm & use washers on the rear/passenger-side of the bracket to ensure the drive-belt lines up straight. Blue Thing will wear these badges with pride!
  23. carbonboy
    Step 1: Dismantle starter motor. Step 2: Mark/drill/tap thread for bolt. Step 3: Make sure bolt is cut to length & use compressed air to clean out all swarf/debris. Step 4: Pretty much any appropriately sized heat shield from starter motors at the wreckers will suffice. No idea what this one came off, sorry. Step 5: Bolt on. Not the be all & end all of solutions, but it should help the starter motors life.
  24. carbonboy
    Wasn't happy with the 6mm fuel line from the tank, yanked the 8mm one I have in amongst my Twin Cam spares & that's going in. Makes hooking the pump up a lot less complicated as a bonus. The 2A-C alternator is being reused, mainly because I lack the funds for a 4A-GE alternator/bracket/wiring plug. Courtesy of a power steering pump bracket from a V30 Camry, the alternator is now living on the intake side. Just a little 'customising' to get the adjustment bracket to fit & it should be photo worthy. While rummaging through my spares I found an intake-side starter motor, hoping more rummaging will dig up the matching gearbox cover-plate or that idea goes out the window. The heat from the headers on the starter motor kinda concerns me, I know AE82's with a C50 gearbox had the starter on the exhaust side, but they had a little heat shield, my 2A-C starter doesn't have a place to bolt one. It's a lot of mucking about, but much easier to dummy this stuff up when it's on a stand & not in an engine bay!
  25. carbonboy
    If it has zero chance of being legal on full registration, what makes you think Club Registration is any different in its standards? A modified car like this would be requiring an Engineers Certificate as it is well outside the VicRoads guidelines that apply for both Full/Club Registration. I'm not saying don't go ahead with your project, just saying that you should be aware of what is achievable & what is not.
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