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carbonboy

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Everything posted by carbonboy

  1. carbonboy
    You can, but you'd have to include an electrical circuit with relay/fuses etc to not only run the pump, but to turn it off in the event of an accident for instance. May also need to fart about with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to get things right. I myself wouldn't & didn't bother, not when a new one for a 2A/4A-C cost me $72 from Repco not long ago. Got a photo of said fuel pump?
  2. carbonboy
    What do you need when putting in crankshaft bearings & are also what I forgot to clean? Main bearing caps. :blush: Before & after shots.
  3. carbonboy
    Yep, they have a WD-40 coating for now to stop rust forming on the conrods until the time comes that I install them. I have plenty of glad wrap, happy you mentioned it as it makes me feel less paranoid! :laff:
  4. carbonboy
    Cheers man, the things you find just laying around. ;) I'll take that as a yes, they're clean enough. :) The crank's going in this evening & clearances checked, once that's done I'm going to hit a bit of a wall until I can afford piston rings. Got the 6:30am don't-come-in-today call this morning, work's still quiet so just doing what I can.
  5. carbonboy
    Soak, scrub, repeat. The finished product. Clean enough for you kickn5k? :P
  6. carbonboy
    61 days to go, I'm not liking my chances of having the new engine in on time. Usual story, lack of funds. *meh* Blue Thing qualifies this year, so will be there regardless! :yes:
  7. carbonboy
    It feels good to say that I will be able to again attend a CC&D event after motorkhana commitments have kept me away for the last two. Octobers CC&D will be held on Sunday the 27th of October from 8:00am - 10:30am, at the home of one of our Club Sponsors, Autobarn Epping. They are located at 560 High Street, Epping, for a Google Maps link please click here.
  8. carbonboy
    Rods & pistons got a good cleaning today, scrubbed with a nylon brush & de-greaser, followed by some simmering in soapy water, followed by more de-greaser & scrubbing.
  9. carbonboy
    You're serious? Fark......that sucks mate! One can only hope kharma does its job.
  10. carbonboy
    Many competitors do run either an LSD or a locked diff, but there are those of us running against them with open centres/non-lsd gearboxes. I'd love one in Blue Thing, the thing is, they're worth more than the whole car! :laff: Classes for VMC are: Class A: Production Cars: up to 2450 mm wheelbase (2WD, Engine Over Drive or Mid Engined) Class B: Production Cars: up to 2450 mm wheelbase (2WD, Engine Away from Drive) Class C: Production Cars: 2451 mm & over wheelbase (2WD, Engine Over Drive or Mid Engined) Class D: Production Cars: 2451 mm & over wheelbase (2WD, Engine Away from Drive) Class E: Production Cars: AWD or 4WD Class F: Specials
  11. carbonboy
    Had a bit of a moral dilemma, I'd put my hand up to volunteer my assistance as a helper at the Winton 6 Hour event. Turns out VMC Round 9 is on the same day (being 100% organised isn't my strong point), what to do, what to do... Round 9 of the NGK VMC will be held on Sunday the 20th of October, at the PAC Grounds in Pakenham. For a Google Maps link please click here & for Entry Forms/Supp Regs, please click here. It will be the first dirt event since I lowered Blue Thing, so it'll be interesting to see how things go. Pakenham doesn't have the random rocks of Werribee, but there's still a pothole or three! :)
  12. carbonboy
    Looks like if I want photos, I'll have to find them myself! :P Courtesy of Street Statik, we have a few but cool shots: Tarmac Toys were also present on the day & not only took a heap of photos, they did an awesome little write-up on the event which you can check out here: http://tarmactoys.co...donuts-15-9-13/
  13. carbonboy
    It was either going to be me or Evan who reanimated this thread, so I took the initiative with a bottle of Wild Turkey 86.8 Proof. T'is going down quite nicely after a productive day catching up on non-car related tasks today. Unlike someone we know I'm staying the hell away from Ebay! ;) But for $h1ts & giggles while I'm on a trip down memory lane: Edit: Also:
  14. carbonboy
    I know we thought Gangnam Style was dead, but I live around this area & have been in tears laughing! :lolcry: http://youtu.be/WdlTIIfuKzw
  15. carbonboy
    Any idea what grade of transmission fluid the gearbox currently has in it? I believe an 80w-90w is specified for these gearboxes, but changing to a 75w-90w may help things. The fluid level when full should be even with the bottom of the filler hole when on a level surface. Another cheap/easy thing to check is between the top of the gearbox & the firewall, you'll see where the shifter cables attach to the gear selector arms. These have rubber bushes in their ends & they could be shagged, giving you a sketchy shift. An easy replacement for these rubber bushes are skateboard/roller blade bearings (yes, I'm serious) as they're cheap as chips, just check diameters etc to make sure you get the correct size.
  16. carbonboy
    Results are in! It's a bit of a mixed bag as technically we VMC people weren't directly competing against the SEAC people due to class definition differences. *cough*needanationalclassdefinition*cough* But anyway, in the event Outright Results, I placed 24th out of 42. Removing the Specials & sticking to Production Cars, 15th out of 33. Only 20 seconds over 12 tests behind Batch with a WD that cost me 14 seconds, getting there..... ;) From the VMC part, I placed 14th out of 18 Outright, same same on Handicap, 2nd of 2 in Class A (pwned by Mr BS, a really nice guy!) & Novice I ran solo. Had a ball & made it home without anything breaking. Stayed tuned for an update, I have a little surprise for y'all coming up in the near future. Something even I didn't see coming. :drevil:
  17. carbonboy
    From my own personal experience with A-series engine mechanical fuel pumps, don't waste your time with second-hand. Buy a new one if it is not just the gasket that is leaking oil. Most auto-parts stores will have one or be able to order one in. :y: Edit: It may pay to check exactly where the leak is coming from, save yourself some headaches & grief!
  18. carbonboy
    Once again, Blue Thing was my transportation, accommodation & race-car. I have a sneaking suspicion the fuel pump isn't too healthy anymore, but I made it home. Without a Civic to chase, I was left with a Nissan Pulsar. You know your chances aren't so great of beating him when you hear "I should do okay on this test, I designed it.". :blinks: Experience counts, even with tests I was doing for the first time & mistakes he made, he was probably an average of 3 seconds faster on each test. A few half-decent shots I managed on the day. Not what I'd expect at a motorkhana event, certainly not being driven by someone my age, if not younger! This Soarer impressed me the most, big car? No problem! The guy in the X-series Falcon...not so much... A close second in the impressive stakes, a Barina Turbo. You didn't have time to make hairdresser/hairdryer jokes as it was bloody fast! All the usual in-car footage & other videos can be found here:
  19. carbonboy
    The Comic Sans & the Number 3 option in the OP are my favourites, but the multiple option for different time period Corollas is a winner. A sticker to suit you & your cars style. :y:
  20. carbonboy
    A cheap & simple steering wheel upgrade for an AE8x is the leather steering wheel from an AE9x, the problem is, you lose your self-canceling indicators when you do. I found a way around that problem: On an AE8x steering column under the wheel, you will find this. It is the mechanism that cancels the indicators when you turn the wheel. It has 2 pins on its end, at 180 degrees to each other. The brass pin is the contact pin for the horn, it also needs 'realignment'. These pins lock into holes in the back of the steering wheel, on an AE8x the hole centre to hole centre is ~32mm, on an AE9x it's ~43mm. So all you need to do is measure & drill new holes in the AE9x wheel to suit, you will hit the metal towards the centre of the wheel, a grinding tip comes in handy here. You will also need to stretch the spring slightly to keep it seated in the wheel. Reassemble as you would normally & check that everything works, the plastic covers on the steering column also need some trimming to fit. Fitting an FX-GT instrument cluster surround is optional. ;)
  21. carbonboy
    Which engine do you have exactly, 4AC (single cam) or 4AFC (twin cam)? You can put anything you want on them, anything other than the factory gear requires adaptor plates/custom-made setups. Mixture adjustment, no, idle adjustment, yes.
  22. carbonboy
    Great work in the engine bay man, actually the whole car looks awesome. Probably the cleanest I've ever seen an xA-C engine bay! How is it with the automatic gearbox? Capable, suits the purpose? I've just never driven an automatic one that's all. :)
  23. carbonboy
    Sounds like you've made the right kind of change with the rear swaybar, knowing exactly what's going to happen will do wonders for your driving. Some changes that will work for some people don't work for others $100 for a guard? For an AE9x? Yeah, I would've bought an entire car too! :)
  24. carbonboy
    This is one of those double-up posts. WMMH - Discovering that the 'worn out brushes' in my angle grinder was just a build up of fine metal shavings causing havoc with all things electrical. Cleaned it all out, good as new! Which is awesome as I'm broke as hell & no room in budget for new ones. WGMG - Not doing this BEFORE I spent several hours filing & shaping my manifold by hand. :bash:
  25. carbonboy
    I had some 'touch up' welding to do to fill a few holes, I think I've gotten them all now. Also added some metal to allow for the drilling/tapping of holes for vacuum ports on the runners. The brushes in my angle grinder gave out about halfway through grinding the welds back, so the rest was shaped by hand & finished with a wire brush on a power drill. Still some work to do on the inside, but could be worse.
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