oh what a nissan feeling!

^^^yep seen your ride, very stealth, i like it :yes: No pics today, it got a bit dark. Have finished the floor mods, tunnel is now a little wider, with a smaller tunnel beside it for the exhaust, still havn't finished smoothing off the welds. next task is putting some filler on the firewall, and get some primer on the spots in the engine bay. does anyone read zoom, or really old hot 4s, theyre free!!!!

so does mine :)

Just widening one side of the tunnel, the factory tunnel is a bit off-centre in the car, so I'm adding an inch or so to one side, will be finished by this arvo. The sump is no drama to me, an sr20 block will handle 600hp before it starts to crack, with my na setup, it will make 200hp at the most with a lot of work done to it, :) I prefer my motor to sit nice and low, it makes it look more like its meant to be there :lmao:

looks like she is coming along nicely, interesting steering setup, looks like it will work sweet! :) hows the tunnel effect your heater?

Thats funny, because everyone bags the commodore brakes, and says get the falcon kit. Mine has commo brake and would seriously out stop almost anything from any speed!

:) man that is gonna look pretty good i recon, looking forward to the pics of it all finished, boot trim as well :lmao:

not long now, on home straight by the looks of it, just a few little tidy ups, and off she goes :)

Thanks man, I'm going as fast as i can :lmao: Todays efforts....... widened the radiator support, welded in some angle as the new edges. Also removed that annnoying bump right behind the engine, and heater hoses, as they need to go on the other side of the motor. the auto box is a bit wide for the tunnel, a manual would fit fine, but the auto is bit too fat through the middle. If anyone is thinking about doing this conversion, a bluebird series 3 gearbox has a much better shifter position than an sr20 box, but you would need to put an sr20 bellhousing onto it, which is no big deal. tunnel mods for the XXXL auto box, plus I'm adding a small exhaust tunnel at the same time. shall weld it all up tomorrow :)

Is your coil a gt40, or a gt40r, because only the one with the 'r' after it is meant to have the resistor with it.

went camping for a couple of days, back at it now though.... together and painted checking sump clearances before fitting. decided the best way to clear the steering on the sump, is to take some of the strength from the sump, after all, its only an na, if it was turbo i may hesitate. ready to go in and last of all, the conrod that came out of my sr20de+t from a few years ago, it copped constant abuse for years.

pre-load drivers side i recon. It is a shame you couldnt get it in behind the grill, but theres not much else you could do. I managed to shave the back off mine until it just fitted, but i think ke55 grills sit out a bit further. Looks pretty neat anyway!

mazda 626 wheels 13 x 5.5, a few styles are out there from normal steel rims to sporty type ones. The rims are worth nothing really. I have a set for sale atm for $100 with good tyres.

Did you replace your fuel filter as well, the pumps get blocked real easy.

If this is a turbo oil return, be prepared to replace your turbo quite regularly. Any turbo oil drain must be above the oil level of your sump. I think the hassle of welding one into your sump would be cheaper and easier!

double post ;)

The adjustable rod will make it so that you can adjust to different lengths which will provide different levels of traction. I've been told a bit of pre-load on one side works the best, will try it once mine are adjustable. The commo panhards on mine are cut and shut, if you made them adjustable at the same time it would be ideal. Nice set up on the rear, the swaybar will also help with putting the power down, mot a big fan of monroe though....

yeah, you can, for holdens, fords and american cars, not for rolas. They are really common on leaf sprung cars at the drags, thats where i copied mine from. They are called caltrac ot caltrax, try google for more pics of professional sets?

The bottom shock plate mounts are made of 6mm steel and welded on, they work better the longer they are (but you gotta clear the ground). the triangles are cut out of 3mm steel sheet, they also work better longer, but to get the legal 100mm clearance they have to be kept small. :)

You can have them, probably a fair bit of waiting though, I don't plan on bothering with small things like this until the car is going again.

:bash: that doesnt sound fun, it fitted perfect in the ke30. Oh well, she'll be right, i'll sort it. :y:

awesome man, nice driving :y: It takes a lot of talent to drive an old car like that :bash:

Wow, that looks real clean. nice find here are those pics you wanted. They use the front spring mount as a pivot point, with another bolt that stops when it hits the top of the spring leaf, this creates a four link type effect. I am making new ones with larger triangles, and adjustable arm soon, these are my old ones, they worked really well though. They are made out of shortened commodore panhard rods. My next set will be made out of fwd pintara rear arms, cos they have an adjustment already.

valves and springs back in with new stem seals bottom end started to be assembled, crank in ... the difference between sr20det rods and sr20de, therefore the weak part of any sr20de. the new radiator, :bash: now where did i put my grinder... engine mounts drilled and removed new ta22 engine mounts $52 each pulled out fuel tank, getting it modified to take an in tank pump and surge tank.

rose joints are not street legal, bushes are. Rack and pinion is also a huge prick to get mods approved.

Nice, i havnt seen another ke25 driving around the coast, will be good to see!