oh what a nissan feeling!

:lmao: Damn man, i admire your persistance! Hopefully things look up with this build :P

Nice work man. Good move changing the oil drain on the turbs, it would have wrecked your turbo. There should be no need to pull the plenum off to get the fuel rail off, about 4 10mm bolts and thats about it. The side feed injectors are a prick to get out of their fuel rail though.

Agreed. someone has got it wrong. It doesnt affect me personally, so i guess i will just wait it out. The national code is much more attractive for small cars, but it kills the :y:, so i hope my engineer is right for the v8turbo crowd. :)

All of the 4:11s were a factory dud, they work fine but bring on the noise! So if you want 4:11s that are not so noisy, the aftermarket ones are a better idea. Either that or put up with the noise, like me...

I rang my engineer yesterday regarding this thread. He said the queensland rules are NOT changing to the national code, they remain exactly how they are. He said they will not change in the foreseeable future, and if they did he would be the first to know. So disregard the table found in the national code, and continue to use the queensland rules as quoted previously in this thread. :dance:

Some parts arrived today. Full gasket set from usa, $110 delivered, they wanted $300 in aus! Rings from usa as well $90 delivered, they were $140 in aus, they made in japan too, so they arent too crap. Also a set of acl big end bearings i had in my cupboard i got from ebay for $20 Also a new ta22 clutch master from bursons for $28 I ordered a cheap alloy radiator off ebay too for an s14, it fits perectly.....or it will. Cost $210 delivered So now i have the bits its time to build a motor. I have two s13 heads here to choose from, the sr20det one is in better condition, so it will do. I started stripping it down to clean it and replace the valve stem seals today. in bits many many hours later, all cleaned up and ready to go back together, the wire wheel certainly came in handy! Will assemble tomorrow. The pistons are next to receive some love.......

It has to be over 1100kg regardless of chassis.

damn nearly missed this somehow... 1 for me please!

There are 3 main sets of rules. Under 1100 kg weight x3 na or 2.5 forced over 1100 kg mono construction weight x4.82 na or 4.0 forced over 1100 kg with separate chassis weight x5.46 na or 4.68 forced. I recon it could be done man. They often want to inspect at various stages throughout the modification, also, some engineers may not want to plate it , but others will. It sometimes pays to visit a few before deciding which guy to use. :jamie:

Not entirely true brad, it is possible to engineer a 4 link in QLD atm, as well as mini tubs, you just have to be very careful and informed about what you cut. Wrong :jamie: A vehicle has to weigh over 1100kgs to fit the rule you are using. Try weight of vehicle x3 for na or 2.5 for forced. You are allowed a 3.0 nothing more.....

:) ah, the purist, i guess I'm definitely on your 'to kill' list :D Looks like a job well done i think, i can't see why you would do it though, id rather own an old corolla than a dirty old bmw, he obviously preferred the latter, so he should have gone and bought one......

Aren't you running a stock computer? It will have a boost cut if you are, normally around 12. So increase the boost until you hit the boost cut, then back it off a bit. Remember it will hit the boost cut earlier in colder weather, and lower gears. If its an aftermarket computer it would do 15 reliably. Ive seen what these nissan motors can do, I personally would run it on 18 or 19, but probably couldnt completely guarantee reliability.

Damn, nice work! would sound awesome too, nothing like the sound of an old lumping 6! The colour looks familiar, is is off a commodore?

:D after much brainstorming i have decided to keep the car, but not the k series. I thought long and hard about a 4a 20v, the size of those motors is a huge incentive. But in the end, the budget won, which means i will be assembling an n/a sr20 for it. I have a complete sr20de i bought a while ago for this car, but i decided i liked the car better as a stocko. After having driven it 40 minutes to work everyday for a year, I realize now whats good to look at is not good to drive! The sr20de was not in the best order when i got it, and has been sitting in bits for a year or so......

make a custom loop, it is quite easy and then it is guaranteed to fit.

:'( lots and lots of fun! Ive had it down the drags heaps of times, and to qld raceway a few times. There are some awesome roads around here too, its just the licence that bothers me...

:D mines an 04 in the orange colour. Problem is I'm looking at selling it soon, with a mortgage and the recent problems with my daily driver, I'm struggling to fund the completion of the ke30. :'( the choices we live to regret...... hang onto that licence man, especially with the ke20 on the way :P

Love your work man, a whole lot of fun right there! bin that procomp lift pump, that is the reason my first motor blew up.

My ke30 with s13 sr20de+ 5speed and falcon diff did a best of 14.9 on street tyres. With your 200kgs less and a bit better midrange i think mid 14s would be possible.

I'm pretty sure all of the ke55's had the floor mounting type, and all of the ke30s have provision for it in the floor.

clutch? speedo? exhaust? heater hoses? coil and igniter? surge tank? i could keep going but i don't want to put you off.

:P time for updates, well, not good. On friday on my way home from work at noosa, i pulled onto the highway and tried to accelerate and the old girl wouldnt do it, in fact, it slowed down instead, so i pulled over and she stalled, opening the bonnet it was pretty clear what was wrong! i cooked it :P (i now recommend working temp gauges) so she now suffers from a bhg, with compression escaping into the water. :( So after hiring a trailer to get it home, i sit there remembering how many issues this car has had over the past few months, in fact I'm pretty sure i work on it every arvo!!! So i am considering: selling the car putting another 4k in rebuilding the 5k sr20de + auto. Either way a bit of reliability is the goal, i prefer to work on the ke30! :D oh yeh, i know its my own fault because i should have got the temp gauge working........... :jamie:

whoops, sorry missed your question earlier, i had a custom radiator made when i first did the conversion about 4 years ago, it takes up the entire room between the chassis rails with about 20mm spare either side to squeeze the bumper in. It cost $580 at the time, although i've been told it would cost nothing less than $1000 these days. :P

Well, i think it would take a few hours to fix for someone with some skills. Unless you fluke a granny model, there is not much chance of finding one in better condition, it may look all sweet, but when you strip the paint down it will likely be exactly the same, if not worse. Get your tipsnips, cut the rust out in nice square neat shapes, find an old panel for donar metal, and weld it in. :P

Too much to fix. They just couldnt be bothered, too lazy and probably can't weld. Typical useless panel beaters these days. :jamie: Take it somewhere else, or buy a cheap mig and teach yourself to weld, preferably the latter. Please no fibreglass. Probably a bit hasty in my panel beater abuse, but the too hard basket is always real big when it comes to old cars. got any pics of the rust?