oh what a nissan feeling!

Seriously man, are you sure you want to do this? With this attitude, it will cost you squillions! Good luck anyways.

You said you could weld? The mounts are one of the easiest bits. As for half cut, no. unless youre rich. There are sr20 turbo long motors going through ebay for around $400, get one of these, inlet manifold with injectors is worth $100, factory turbo exhaust mani is worth $20, I would use an aftermarket ecu, as nissan ones are annoying.

If you aren't extremely handy mechanically you're looking at more like 20-30g.

It is legal in qld, find the engineer you are going to use, build the car with him in the loop. Be prepared to spend 7-10g doing everything yourself.

So true! When i got my ke25 i stripped it back to bare metal- the only rust in the whole car was a 5mm hole in each guard. When i took it for rwc the guy pointed out to me a 10 cent piece hole in the LH chassis rail exactly where rob described.

sfa= nothing. There are ways to modify the 5k, but without forced induction you really are not going to have much luck if drift is what you want.

A 5k is pretty much an identical motor to a 3k or 4k externally, so a dead easy swap. don't expect any major power gains though from one stock motor to another, definately a better base to start modifying though. As far as originality goes i personally disagree, why bother, a ke3x is worth SFA, and will always be worth SFA, if you had a ke2x i could see the point.

Surge is explained on the garrett website, they supply detailed compressor maps for each turbo so surge under load can be avoided. on the topic of bov. From the garrett website:

definately consult an engineer about this if you want a turbo one, it may not be allowed. Sr20 is done to death, easy conversion as far as conversions go, from what ive read people have more trouble with 4ag coversions. The 3s beams is popping up a bit, i like! 1ggte fits, depends what you want out of the car though. People are getting 100rwkw out of simple efi forced 5k conversions, with the lack of extra weight, this is really cool! 3tg, 2tg, 18rg, all classic retro cool motors, vg20 would fit, and be legal, do that..... What I'm saying is do your research, and decide, it up to you!!

Thanks for the support guys, it makes it feel like i made the right choice not to scrap it. MS57 to be precise, same car, different front panels. It has a 7mg, no 't' . Was thinking about a rides thread, I'm so random though, it might drop out of sight again for a few more years, who knows?! Stall will be around the 4g to 4.5 mark Brad, just bought a .82 split rear housing for the turbo, so will need the extra spool time. If youre ever on the sunny coast, give us a call to catch up!

p platers are allowed no mod plates this includes engine conversions, so unless you own a silvia.......... Conversion is quite straight forward, would require a welder and a fair bit of mechanical knowledge though.

good to hear mate, bring on the pics when its painted!

In Qld the legal anount is 1/3rd, who knows how big they were to start with though!

I guess I'm out then. Good luck though, decent apprentices are a rare thing! free bump!

Thats what I'm using, made by mahle according to the box.

when i bought it many moons ago.

I must love it too, it is a rusty pig, I always used to say 'if a car has rust in the roof it is not worth repairing'. Now look at me! will find some more pics...

Annual update time!!! Been on holidays and stuff, pretty unmotivated atm. Have been working at getting the engine bay really really tidy looking. welded up seam along top of firewall. Etch primer Also been fixing the rust in the roof of my pos '70 crown wagon, thinking about getting it on the road. It is a rusty bitch, but i have decided to bother making it like a brand new one! Cut the gutters off, and welded up the seam. 2 new patches on drivers side, which is the good side! Passenger side sections cut out This one at the front This one at the rear. Have welded it all up now, but lost the pics, might take some more now.

Quite a few motors out there use the crank angle sensor on the cam, have seen this retro fitted before to an sr20ve, this would allow sequential fire.

There was a guy in redcliff that we used to use when we were playing with webbers, that was a few years ago now. He really knew his webber s##t. He was hard to track down the first time, Will see if anyone still has his number.

I have only ever heard complaints about CP, some people seem to think they make the ring lands too thin, I think they just need to tune their engines properly.

There is no power difference between a set of well tuned webbers and EFI, just economy. Go the 4a+ twin 40s.

i have had several button clutches in mine, i have found none of them to be real harsh at all, in fact, after a fair bit of adjustment the latest one is like a normal clutch. Apparently they don't get as many ks as a normal clutch though. as far as breaking gearboxes goes, it all depends on how you drive, I am a prick to manual gearboxes and have not owned a manual car that i have not broke the box in, not to mention diffs........... edit. If your clutch plate has no springs in the centre it is a full race version, not real friendly at all.

so shiny! hey man, you can buy a cloth buffing wheel for drills, about 100mm round for about $10-15. use autosol with that and your arm will hurt a bit less!

chassis bracing??? um, no.