altezzaclub

That oil pump has seen some rubbish go through it! You should have a flat sheet of half inch thick steel in the workshop, maybe the size of an A5 sheet of paper. You wrap a sheet of 180grit wet 'n dry sandpaper on it, spray some CRC on it and wipe that oil pump base around and around until the grooves mostly vanish. If you're keen, take the pump off you can do the bottom of it and do the impeller too. Then clean them all really well! Anything that needs to be flat can be sanded, like a thermostat housing that has had the aluminium pulled out of shape by some guy with big spanners. There will be a gap listed in the 4K manual for the oil pump rotor tip clearance. A thou or two I expect.

Do it now! Otherwise the motor will run like a dream for years and leave oil patches every time you park! Does it still have the 4 studs under the crank pulley? Replace those with bolts, in case you ever want to remove the sump in the car...say, because you didn't fix the plug thread now and you're tired of oil leaks! Its difficult but not impossible to get the sump off without pulling the motor out, but only if those studs are gone. Only you can know if there is enough thread strength to hold the plug in, but it should take 15ft.lbs I'd say, a solid but not hard tighten with one hand on a ring-open spanner.

I'd get some CRC 556, WD40 or Q20, whatever and squirt some in with the extension tube on the valve. If you spray the far wall it will run around the rings and coat the cylinder walls as you turn it over. Only needs it once every few months. The 90% kero spreads the oils around and then slowly evaporates, and it will burn out when you start the motor.

"What do we think about a beams 3sge swap? " Its been done plenty of times, but the Beams is a very tall motor so either a lot of work to get it low, or a hole in the bonnet. I'm working on putting one in an AE86 Sprinter for a guy right now, a gravel rally car, and it has a Kiwi-made shallow sump and custom mounts. A pair of brothers who rally a KE70 used the earlier Gen 4 version for exactly this reason. Anyway, that's a long way down the track, you can make that 5K go fast enough to get into trouble! If you're screwing a tapered brass fitting into an aluminium housing use some sealant and only go just above hand-tight. Those t'stat housing are fairly thin to start with and often corroded even thinner. I pulled the thread out of a 4AGE one and found it was made of unobtanium, but luckily could extend the thread further in.

Love it! Fenix, Superlites.. Money doesn't go far with those names! You know where you'll end up eventually! https://www.youtube.com/shorts/uU0uBJp09lc Wonderful little cars, garage 4AGE helped make them famous https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX4CAVEsdVA ..and the Europeans love them in rallying and hillclimbs. https://www.facebook.com/VHTRacing/videos/248299146008069/?s=100000342565571&v=e&sfns=mo ..and if you want to stick with a K motor but make it go faster you will need- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ have fun!

You are right! I didn't look at the fine detail, although now I vaguely remember something about it from a decade or two back.

"and it goes like a cut cat." Toss the downdraft and get a single 40DCOE Weber on there! If not bike quads! I don't suppose you measured the bore when you had the head off, or took a picture of the pistons? Dished pistons sound like 5K too, my 4K looked like this- That was digging the rusted gunk out from around #3 & 4 cylinders, a major reason they overheat and blow gaskets. I thought that t'stat top would rotate easily. it certainly does in Photoshop! Sounds like a fun build, any idea on the cam that's in it?

Why don't you just turn the outlet around 180deg? Aren't they symmetrical?

Well, the smaller the master cylinder, the further the pedal moves to brake, and the more leverage it has on the pads, so its easier to push. The larger the m'cyl the less it moves and the harder it is to push. An AE95 has a 14/16th" or 22mm master cyl. that's pretty much an average number. What bolt holes do you have in the booster for the KE10? That's another factor to sort out.

That depends on the caliper piston sizes. Find the area of front & rear caliper pistons, add them up, assume a cylinder of that area by 1mm and that is the volume of brake fluid you have to move. You only want the master cyl to move 5mm to do that, with a ratio of pedal between your foot and the m'cyl your foot will move four or five times as far. I expect you'll be looking at a 3/4" to 15/16th master cyl diameter. What size front discs are you looking at?? 270s?? 290s? ..or what motor are you using and is it street or competition use??

In Thailand, not that I've used, but Ebay seem pretty good with their systems for getting money back and their reputation system is important to the sellers. So long as the seller is selling quite a bit of stuff and not just a one-off I don't think they rip people.

$1700 for a brand-new car!!! You can see what Govts printing money does to the value of the currency, that inflation they induce adds up over a few years!

"Have You recently had the gearbox out, & any clutch work or replacements carried out ? " ..and if not the thrust bearing is probably worn out, or possibly the pilot bearing on the end of the gearbox input shaft. Sounds like its gearbox out time either way. Does the clutch still feel normal when its working apart from the noise? Squeals when your foot is off the pedal in neutral and goes quiet when you press it?

Get some Upol #2 weld-through primer in copper, we use it all the time on race car fabrication. Its a lot more expensive than the zinc, but they are rubbish to weld through, its just like welding galv pipe. I'd use paint stripper to start with, get all the paint off as there will be little rust-worm trails under paint that look fine from the outside. We took the driver's-side top surfaces back like this, even if the paint looked OK for 99%, underneath were little rust trails heading off in all directions. I figure it spent its life in a carport up against a wall on the passenger's side, so the drivers side was weathered.

Sure, we have it hosted here- https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kxtqr769ojtetah/downloadfile.jpg?rlkey=ulck2pyqn6u8nd163h0awrj7w&e=1&dl=0