ca18rolla

Yeah, ever spilt a ca block dude something else will let go before you spilt a cast ca block. You push a sr20 alloy block and be prepared to possable split it. Anyway not knocking sr20's presenting the facts f@$k give me a fj20 over a ca18 or sr20 any day. Even better wait a few months and i ll post a 2.4l big horse power 4cyl (nissan) once built and in.

The sydney thing think you getting a little over protective. Not my fault you had the Australia day riots there! lol JOKING And for the Racsim spose you can look at it that way but its a STORY. Not true! So sorry if anyone was offended.

Mate do a bit of a search i ve posted a fair bit about ca conversion to rollas on here but. Basically to do a ke3x or ke70 (both we have done) 1.All we have done is cut the mounts/brackets of the the engine cross member and used rubbers to mount the motor brackets to the x/memeber ones (have used range rover ones noe as escort ones broke) 2.Lowered motor/box with brackets and rubbers attached into engine bay, Got it sitting right (far back as possiable while leaving clearance on fire wall, checking where shifter will be bout 5" further back to stock, Central in bay. 3. mark/scribe brackets allowing for how much you wanna lower the motor. Remove enige cross member brackets, cut sit back in, if happy tack onto cross member. 4. remove crossmember and fully weld them up 5. RE-install bolt motor in postition gearbox so will line up with diff and make a simple g/box x/memeber 6. Motor installed now cooler,elec, fuel system, etc etc I used vl turbo pump ran out at 205rwhp power, Installed 5/16 bundy line for fuel supply. One piece custom 3" tailshaft Pm any ques dude be more then happy to answer. Hope this makes sense it too late to think!!!

Good oil and good filter check the oil weekly like you should with any car and don't rev the tits of it and it should be sweet. Most of these motors are ten years old+ so thats why they normally spin bearings or are reved too hard. it go in the ke70 no worries just modify engine cross member brackets and make custom gearbox x/member. As for the shaft you talk about. I think you mean the tailshaft take the front yoke from the back of the gearbox and your old tailshaft and go to a drive shaft shop and they ll use them to make a new one piece number. they ll tell you where to measure from so they can make it the right lenght (normally diff flange to seal face on the g/box and and diff flange to end of the spline on g/box) Goodluck keep us posted!!

Ca fits no worries need no mods to the bonnet, fire-wall, chassis or ther trans tunnel. Only need to gut the shifter location bout five inches further backwards. 4a would be the same as far as i could tell when measuring one up to see if it ll fit ok. Parts for the CA18de and det are normally of the shelf places like high-octane rocket ind. etc have pistons cams rods gaskets manifolds and any head shop can order parts for the head so everything is pretty well available aybe a six week wait at the most on some things rods etc.. Unsure bout the 4a but you would be able to order stuff either straight from japan or through a parts wholesaler if need be and un-available in Aus. Cheers http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...ic=4477&hl=ca18

Thanks mate your beast will be insane! can't wait to see it run, Should take it to power cruise i m taking mine. Heard the 13b ke30? is going again this year. Alll we need is a sr one you keen??? lol

yep this thing is hot i saw it at milton and had a good chat to matt about it. It is so straight and the paint is overrated. Done i really good job and the grill is sick! I want the body and roll cage to put my running gear into!!!

Nick- just wondering why you were so rude to the bloke who is just on here asking a serious question. About a engine conversion. Know you have something against ca18's but reallt he just wants some info. Are we not all here to help each other out??? Also hope you don't just delete this post. Anyway bro no there are no modifications needed to fit the ca18det or de into the ke35 even when using the standard ca18 box. All you need to do is cut the shifter hole in the tunnel bout 5 inches further back. Apart from that custom mounts on front cross member and a custom gearbox x/memeber as well. Then just custom tailshaft exhaust etc. You should think about a new diff too, cause it wont handle the power and maybe bigger brakes dude PM me for any other info. If in bris come check mine out to get some ideas if you want. Goodluck!!! Cheers ROBBO

Nick- I would be saying a machette attack in sydney. Some shit about being slashed after not giving your wallet up! by some crazy viets! JIP1- I would tell people yours was from open heart surgey because of a heart attack which was a result of being electructed while standing under a colourbond patio which was struck by lighting.

hey man can i get that number for the engineer for the brakes and did he fit them or just get them ready for you to fit. cheers and power figures yet? Check my run in tune!

Carefully i started with a cheap project ca ke35 coupe and ended up getting carried away and now owes over 15k lol! Goodluck and keep us posted

Firstly that sr20 has a crap dyno sheet it ramps up 300hp bewteen 180-190km/h it would break traction something crazy and be shithouse down the 1/4. Dyno queen!!!! lol SR'S are about 14 kg heavier then a CA. Not giving ca's a rap because i have one and not wanting to start or hear the whole CA vs SR vs 4AG! But ca's and sr's have a huge amount of aftermarket parts available and 2nd hand parts are everywhere. CA's are reliable motors have a nice strong block, Great head design. Compare one to a rb20,25 side byside while apart they are almost the same. Bottom ends are spinning in 2nd hand motors as are blown h/gaskets but lets not forget that most of these motors are 15 years old and who knows what our friends in japland treated these motors like. As for the sump any decent workshop should be able to modify the sump add a litre or so in capicty and baffle it a little better. Dry sumps are really expensive and unless its a dedicated track really a waste of money. SR'S have a weaker block and a shit head design, Though the head can be sorted out. If it was me i would go for the ca18 rebuild it and go from there. If you really wanna go toyota go the 4a rebuild it get compression to a good level and through a turbo manifold on it and a t28 (b/bearing) turbo Goodluck and keep us posted!

A month would sort me this ould give me time to get my car 100% done and registered. I ll keep an eye out here for more info!

Rare spares have some rolla ones depending on what model and Also THE RUBBER SHOP in brisbane have heaps of different rubbers available. Really nice fella too.

I take one over a sr20 anyday. It ll handle 15 all day everyday!!! Each to there own though!

Here the dyno graph too!!!

Here are the pics guys sorry took so long! Check the grill we made should i powder coat it black or polish it? (Let me know everyone) Cheers Robbo. Cheers Buddy! Yep 22 now and boy did i feel like crap the next morning :0

Run in tune was done yesterday And it made 205rwhp on a pissy 7psi. So looks like that 300rwhp will be on the cards that i m chasing! Just need to do my diff and i ll be out running her her in! Sorry guys still workin on the pics i ll try today need to borrow mates camera mines broken

nice work dude. Very nice witht the coilovers keep us all posted! :)

Standard x/member modified brackets that are on the cross member though and moved. Corona struts, custom bearing plates corrolla springs and spring seat. Corona brakes. Ca18 box just cut shifter location bout 4" further back L300 diff (moved spring seats and shock mounts etc)

I d pull old motor out, lower the new one in and see how it is going to sit and then work out if anything will hit anywhere i.e sump, exhaust manifold etc and then bolt up gearbox and see what you then need to do with your engine mount brackets (x/memeber brackets). Probably need to make up a little custom gearbox cross member too but that should be pretty straight forward i just used some 30x30 box section on mine and some pieces of flat bar. here is my brackets rewelded and in new postion after being relocated to suit my ca18det.

I d pull old motor out, lower the new one in and see how it is going to sit and then work out if anything will hit anywhere i.e sump, exhaust manifold etc and then bolt up gearbox and see what you then need to do with your engine mount brackets (x/memeber brackets). Probably need to make up a little custom gearbox cross member too but that should be pretty straight forward i just used some 30x30 box section on mine and some piecs of flat bar. here is my brackets rewelded and in new postion after being relocated to suit my ca18det.

i d say the ae71 one wont bolt up to your ke30. I think you will have to cut the orignal ke30 brackets off and modify them to suit the 4age. Not the hardest thing just need a grinder, welder and engine crane to help with postion the motor in right postion, before cutting and welding everything.

Hey guys turned out the motor wasn t turning over hard enough by the starter to show the signal on the laptop and the 300zx one was stuffed. Charged battery and in the mean time tryed the orginal ca18 one by hand and got a signal! Then the car woundn t fire checked wiring diagram and was missing a earth on the powe side of the ignitor. CAr now runs and starts no worries. So cheering the computer was ok. On to the dyno for the run tune next week! Thanks everyone

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