the witzl

arent there also some different strut top bolt patterns on the earlier KE70s?

a diesel?

only 180hp.... and you have added around 150kg over the alternatives such as a 4age, 3sge, etc. Power to weight says fail.

ToyotaFest has been running for like 6 years now iirc..... and really is an awesome show. Guys from all over the country come to town for an awesome weekend which isnt just the show, there are social activities as well if you follow the threads on Toymods forums. I hope they do get the same venue as the last 2 years, and finally some good farking weather so we can park on the roof!

that is a serious amount of fab work there..... i love it. What you planning on using this one for?

hmmm.... will have to wait and see when i get those swaybars then, and whether they will clear the HPC brake upgrade. Otherwise, i'll tes them with the XT130 LCAs i have and if they fit with those.... and keep that whole front setup for post-engineering (xt130 lcas increase track too much for engineering) Yes i know the art of shifting the T50's gears quickly. How else do you get a 1.9 sec 60' time with a T50?

cheers for the info - thats enough confirmation for me :)

ah... you need a better crimping tool then! Soldering in your case is probably better than a loose crimp

I found that a nice balance of ratios for "fun" driving and street driving, was the AE71 T50 with a 4.11:1 final ratio diff centre. This was with a smallport 16V 4age which was daily driven. Yes a closer ratio would take off faster, but would piss you off in street driving having to change gears regularly, and youd be sitting at like 4000rpm doing 110kph on the freeway. No thanks! 4.11:1 centres are also easy to find. I'm pretty sure the AE86/AE71 do share the same swaybar mounting points. I'll kow for sure soon enough when i get some AE86 swaybars and try to fit them to my KE70.

... yep.... and i havent even started on the less than lucklustre standard braking and suspension fitted to the KE20. There's another $2-3k there if you want to play at sprint/track days and be able to actually stop the car in less distance than an A380 landing at sydney airport..... EDIT: i can't speel

My KE70, to which i am fitting a turbo 18RG (yes silly idea but meh), has to date cost me around $10K doing nearly everything myself. If i could weld, i would have saved around $1500 of that. I still have around $3k to spend to get it running. ... and I'm doing things quite frugally. yes you could spend just $2k on the engine.... but where you will burn double that sum is: - diff - tailshaft - gearbox - gearbox tunnel mods - radiator - fuel system - crossmembers and engine/gearbox mounts - sump modifications - intercooler piping - exhaust system (and most likely a turbo manifold that will FIT in your engine bay) - etc etc .... and thats even if you do things on the CHEAP. Ive done enough conversions in my time to know these things are not cheap.

Don't solder a spade connection. The vibrations in a car will eventually crack the solder and give you a dry joint contact.... Not good.

nah should p1ss it in for $2k!! Didnt you know engine conversions are just cost of engine + tank of fuel????

just use male spade connectors. It's what i've done in the past when wiring up quad hi-lo's on multiple RA28/RA23 celicas and old crowns. AFAIK, all still work perfectly up to 7 years later.

I'm on a strict budget. This is a mostly straight line car - brakes are a must for engineering (hence getting the HPC conversion), but going silly on suspension upgrades when i don't need to is just wasting budget that could otherwise go towards more faas. TE72s arent as common in wrecking yards these days, likewise RT132s. I did not think of RA40. Which also means that RA23/RA28 should work too. Hence i'll be looking at them as well. I know where some are ;)

yeah i just need to farken find some. Most likely going to require a trip out to Northern Road Wreckers for that, and hope they have an XT130/RT132.

Most manufacturers still uses fuses for headlight circuitry (in fact ALL that i am aware of do). There would have to be good solid reasoning behind this. In fact, most factory cars now days have one fuse per headlight - so that if one blows you still have the other available. The fuse is there predominantly as a short circuit protection, rather than overcurrent protection. An electrical short is the 95% reason a headlight fuse would blow. Hence - autoreset breaker is not a wise idea. You should have a fuse, so that if you replace it, fuse blows again, forcing you to find the electrical short. I would also agree with replacing H4 sockets with new ones. The old KE70 H4 sockets ive always seen are brittle and farked.

you could also buy all these same parts for a hell of a lot cheaper at Jaycar, and even have enough extra spare funds to use a proper relay base socket. i would also recommend using fully insulted terminals to avoid accidental electrical shorts, or use proper relay bases.

it wasnt realy decisively answered earlier on in this thread, but are AE86 swaybars compatible with KE70/AE71? I'm looking at buying some AE86 whiteline swaybars for my KE70 - from what i thought they would be happily cross compatible?

ok i might have a quick go at chucking the KE70 strut tops on the XT130 struts and see how it all fits. if it works thats going to make life a LOT easier for me. I just need the right steering knuckles to bolt the struts in completely!

I just picked up a pair of XT130 struts for my '82 KE70, which have been fitted with the hilux/pug/corona 4 piston brake upgrade. THe struts have been built with XT130 springs, as they were originally fitted to an RA23 celica.... my reading on the internets says that the XT130 springs are too large to fit into the little KE70 strut towers. Digging around my garage i found a pair of TE72 kings low springs.... p/n KTFL-16. These are also different....? Measuring coil diameters of each: - the chopped KE70 springs = 130mm - TE72 kings lows = 150mm - XT130 kings lows = 160mm (fitted to the struts) So I'm guessing the TE72 springs will be no good....? So what do most of you guys normally use/do to fit the XT130 struts? Ive read about people getting custom springs wound to suit the KE70 tops with XT130 spring perch on the struts. That kinda sounds silly to me - is there something that you can just chuck in? Also - gotta get me some XT130 or AE86 steering arms don't i?

Volvo 240 or 740 series diffs are the perfect width - 1410mm from wheel mounting face to mounting face. They are cheap as chips to buy, tough as freaken nails, and there there are a few options with final drive ratios. Added bonus - they come with twin piston disc brakes. Picking ratios is easy, there is a sticker on them which tells you the gear ratios. You can also buy a Detroit Trutrac torsen LSD centre for them. Ive got one fitted to my KE70 project car, which should be seeing around 400HP, and i know of a few other cars making plenty more power thru them regularly.

yeah the complexity is pretty low, and ive certainly got a fabricator more than capable. Its just the PITA factor of cleaning the tank of ALL traces of petrol, and stuff. Thanks for your input champ.

more internet sluething...... some dude in the states has used an S13 fuel tank! http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=85161

i just had a look through importmonster.... no luck with AE86 GT fuel tank. If i could find one under $200, i would be happy with that. Otherwise, i'll be looking at baffling and modifying the KE70 tank.