the witzl

i only want the end caps, and yes i have encountered his prices. To be honest they arent bad - have you ever had to buy a re-rolled and re-chromed bumper bar in australia?? I have - RA28 rear bar = $600. JUST ONE BAR. I would dare say the cost of the end caps isnt going to kill me, and i can use my fedex account at work to ship them :)

buy the end caps from the pillipines!! http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1774 Win.

Hey fags. I've picked up a set of TE72 bars (front and rear) for my KE70, and am looking at backyarding them to fit. I've done some searching of the forums, but "chrome bumpers" and "TE72" gives about eleventy billion hits of people saying "I'm gunna buy some chrome TE72 bars and respray my kesev in kandi pink"... and stuff like that. Anyway, finding decent pics and info on fitting these bars is hard to find. So, ive worked out a few things so far. Front Bar - the bar i got has the TE72 brackets, and fits the car OK but the bumper sits proud. Pushing the bar in further would fit neater, but would need to drill new holes in the brackets. Rear Bar - i understand you need to make your own brakets to mount the rear bar, by using the original KE70 brakcets and modifying/chopping them down and attaching a new mounting plate for the chrome TE72 bar. Now cos of the part that wraps around the corners of the TE72 bars have a different end angle to the KE70 bars.... are you able to chop the bars and fit the black plastic end caps to make them match up to the lines of the guards? See this pic below, how the bar doesnt match with the lines of the guard: can you chop the TE72 bar to make it like a proper KE70 chrome bar... like this: .... and then add the end caps to make it fully sick like this:

Yeah the bonus FPR was pretty much a WTF moment by whoever installed it. its all good champ. It'll end up a muuuuuch better car within a few months. Suspension is slowly being sorted to a driveable level - the rear suspension has been fitted, and the new springs and shocks mean the springs are actually captive :) Havent dropped it down off the chassis stands to see what the new ride height is like tho. For the next couple of weeks I'm prepping up the 20V to go to its new owner and installing it in his sprinter. Once I'm done there, then the old diff comes out of the KE70, and goes with the volvo diff to get the mounts swapped over and the volvo diff re-studded to 4x113.4 PCD. Then replace the steering rack, front springs, test fit the MA61 wheels, and tidy up the engine bay. .... then test fit the 18RG and make up some engine mounts. Then we are on a path to skids.

you wouldnt be able to get that registered in NSW, dunno about the capacity laws in QLD... but here it's 3x the vehicle weight for NA, and 2.5x for turbo. You can't put a 1UZFE into an RA28 down here, which weights 1080kg..... would still be cool tho, and i've seen it done. It fits, JUST.

standard organic clutch for me thanks. 20V has no torque. It would take some pretty impressive effort for it to break a standard clutch (and ive tried). $200 from any decent clutch shop. The end.

depends how much you massage the gaurds, and what offset rims, and what profile tyres. Standard KE70 diff is 1400mm. RN41 hilux diff is 1410mm. Close enough for me.

yeah 80mm stroke..... 88.5 x 80.0mm to be exact for the borexstroke. However my engine has a modified rod/stroke ratio, so will rev even more :) As for those springs... they are so far from not captive, it is funny

shortening a diff is quite expensive. With that extra money spend you could buy a spool for a hilux diff.

chopped spring are fkn sick. NOT. (king spring on the left - springs from the car on the right)

soak your tyres in diesel or gearbox oil to obtain less traction.

yeah I'm pretty sure it is.... havent looked very closely to be honest.

KKR430 turbo. Its a bit bigger than a T25... we'll see how it goes anyway.

oooh... i have a turdbro. Yeah there's a touch of surface rust on the rear housing, but will come straight off with a wipe and some inox. Was cheap tho, and looks totally unused.

dbrick... expensive, and probably don't exist. just upgrade if you are going to do anything with the diff. don't waste time on the p00 bog warmer.

i would try to find yourself a used/2nd hand TRD, cusco, kaaz, etc T series LSD. The problem you are going to then have is do you have the correct T series axles? There are two sizes, and most LSD T-series centres are for the larger size axles, which are quite rare and iirc are NOT the axles in the T18 diff. personally... id sell the T18 diff, and do the job properly with a much stronger diff. Here's an idea: Grab an F series diff from an MX13 or MX23 corona, drum to drum, with centre and 4x114.3 stud standard = $200 get mounts welded to suit KE70 = $450 Get LSD diff centre from MA61 supra = $250 $850ish in total. If you bought a truetrac diff centre from my group buy on toymods, it would be $700 for an LSD centre instead of $250... but would be a LOT better than the MA61 lsd, and cost a total of around $1400. The end result is a diff that CAN take the punishment, time and time again. Burnouts, drags, trackwork.... it can do it. The F series with a truetrac centre has been proven behind 250rwkW+ 2JZ and 1JZ engines, and it takes it happily. The T series would cry and snap an axle at any sign of hard driving.

lol..... bend over and be prepared for the arse reaming of your life. My volvo diff (Dana 30, 27 spline), with Detroit Trutrac torsen LSD centre, twin piston disc brakes, and all the mounts welded to suit my KE70 will probably end up costing similar to what you will need to spend to get an LSD centre for your T18 diff.... and you'll still have puny weak little axles and drum brakes. I wouldnt have wasted my time with the pissweak T series diff. They are designed to go behind a 100HP 4 cylinder engine, and even thats pushing their limits IMO. Have a look at this thread on toymods about using the Volvo diff from a 240. They are actaully a Dana 30 diff, and f@$kING strong. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1362

JDM-GUY..... here in australia we didnt get the *E70 series with the T series engine, except for the comonly called "T18", which is the TE72 liftback with the 3T-C motor. We got the sedans with either a 4K or a 4A engine. Thanks for the support... i'll keep this thread updated with further progress and results for you. Well there's a few more updates..... picked up some king low springs for all 4 corners, as well as some KYB rear shocks, reco'd steering rack, on-car adjustable rear upper link arms, and a volvo 1031 diff (aka M31 dana 30 diff - STRONG). The volvo diff is from a latish model 240-series, has a 3.73:1 ratio open centre, and comes complete with twin piston disc braks with internal drum handbrake. They are cheap as chips to buy from wreckers, and are a PERFECT match to the KE70 measuring 1400mm wide face-to-face. I'll be getting a Trutrac torsen LSD centre from the states, converting the stud pattern from the vovlo 5x108 to toyota 4x114.3mm, and getting mounts welded on to suit the KE70. Similar costs to doing a hilux or F-series diff conversion, but you end up with BIG rear disc brakes instead of crappy drum brakes! Here is the hunk of metal known as the volvo diff. (ignore the WTF... have worked that bit out now, i think) And today... i got busy. Removed the 20V, and prepped front suspension for removal next weekend (cracked all the nuts). That was a cruisy couple of hours work.

why not look at the 2GR-FE then?? 200killerwasps mate!

ummm... not much actually. I've sold he entire 20V package that was in the car when i bought it.... so basically i am left with a car, and an EFI fuel system. It worked out cheaper than buying a stock KE70 and starting from there. Teddy - there is no doubt I'm giong to pull this conversion off. Ive given myself a deadline to complete the car by October this year.

yeah a good little car... but yes pretty rough. Nothing 7 years of toymodding experience can't fix tho. Just visited my eneing builder tonight.. The engine is now 95% complete, he just needs to: - install welsh plugs - fit front sump (and modify oil pickup) - modify crank pulley with 12-1 tooth trigger wheel - gimme back my box of bits - make engine mounts once ive test fitted the engine - make turbo manifold - stop working on rivers engine So.... this is what the uber 18RG looks like, so far: Head studs visible here, as well as the BRAND NEW no.2 chain tensioner Intake port, showing how its been ported and cleaned up exhaust side... with EGR blocked, and exhaust studs helicoiled up to 10mm studs Crower H-beam rods, main bearing studs and a sneaky view up to the skirts of the SPS custom forged pistons.

yeah there is only about 50% of the rear coils left i rekon. Luckily I'm picking up a full set of king springs tomorrow, and already have some KYB rear shocks to go in. Teddy - no its not pmp80y mk2. This will be build a little better. Tonight I'm heading off to my engine builder to see the finished engine, and organise the exhaust manifold and new sump. Tomorrow I'm picking up the volvo diff, king springs, steering rack and some other random parts. Hopefully my KKR turbo should arrive today too :y:

Well here is my shitbox. I bought this KE70 from a kid up in byron bay... was pretty rough when i bought it. Was fitted with a silvertop 20V which ran like shit, had a welded diff, dodgy as hell falcon rear springs, bald tyres inflated to 8psi, shagged rear wheel bearings, sloppy steering rack... and a few other awesomeness features. After deciding NOT to drive it back to sydney - i had it brought home on a truck. But anyway... some specs: - KE70 flat front - flared guards - Silvertop 20V engine - Microtech LT10s ecu - 4-1 extractors - Kaizen garage RWD conversion kit - a complete lack of pimp fur interior (yay!) - welded S series diff (p00) After getting it home... i found there was a SECOND fuel pressure regulator fitted to the engine, which was referenced to atmosphere. Removed that, and suddenly the engine ran beautifully! Kudos to whoever installed that bonus FPR :y: My Grand Plans: - remove the 20V and sell it (DONE) - fit recaro front seats - replace dodgy steering rack - fit new springs all round (not the dodgy shopped falcon springs!) - MA61 wheels all round (like whats on the front) - install ovlov diff and LSD centre - install 18R-G + KKR430 turbo + W55 gearbox - install adaptronic ECU - ???? - skids. I already have the 18R-G 99% built, with custom forged pistons, H-beam rods, head studs, porting, new valves, custom sump, etc etc.... Anyway - here it is just after picking it up and getting it back to ballina. That 40km trip used 11L of fuel!!! (no I'm not kidding)

depends how much work you can do yourself, and how good you are at sourcing 2nd hand parts :y:

well it wouldnt be the airflow meter because the blacktop uses MAP sensor. check fuel pressure regulator, and that it is connected to vacuum. Also check injectors, and injector seals MAP sensor might also be disconnected from correct vacuum line.