the witzl

yeah but there really isnt any point to getting an AE86 tank unless you manage to find a JDM version with in-tank EFI pump. ..... which is unlikely. Thanks for confirming that it DOES NOT fit. Saves me a lot of stuffing around at the wreckers on the weekend. So now to look at options for installing baffles in the KE70 tank.

OK, i've been doing my searchwork and googles on what i can do in terms of in-tank pump setup for EFI in my KE70. I already own a Walbro 255L/min pump, which is left over from a previous project, and is partly why I'm looking at in-tank rather than external surge tank, etc. In my searches ive read some posts saying that an RT142 fuel tank fits into AE86/AE71.... but ive only read it on like 3 posts on these forums, and they didnt seem that convincing. Here is one post in this thread about it - http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/35490-efi-into-ae71-help-correct-pump/ This guy says a couple of mods are needed - anyone know what mods? has anyone ACTUALLY attemped fitting an RT142 tank, or successfully fit it? If you didnt know, the RT142 tank is already EFI, with baffling. It also is the same as RA65 fuel tank, and also fits into RA60 and RA40. All help is greatly appreciated.

wow... good old pump-boy would make it into the top 4 on this list, despite being the biggest heap of crap on the planet. AE71 Shit-tin. 4A-GE stock smallport with T28 turbo. ET - 14.114 MPH - 94.71 60ft - 1.978 This was all back sometime around 2005 iirc.

Guys, I'm in the process of sorting out engineering, and need to know the factory wheel specifications and track widths so that I can keep to original track width for engineering. I'm not interested in learning what CAN fit... i need to know what was factory on KE70 and AE71. I must find out to ensure that i chose wheels with correct offset to maintain close to factory track widths. All help would be appreciated. Witzl.

are you going to be able to engineer this? I know in NSW the largest turbo engine you can fit to a KE20 is around 1.9L..... cool car tho. Needs more skids.

my diagram is easier to read i rekon.

no no.... power is provided by one relay to the COMMON pin of the headlight. (Looking at the back of the headlight, it is the lefthand pin IIRC. That power relay is turned on by you turning on your headlights. Look at my thread linked above on toymods. I made a really simple diagram to follow. You can just eliminate two of the headlights... cos obviously most KE70s only have 2 headlights (unless you have done the quadlight conversion).

Going thru this exercise myself with an 18RGTE (efi, turbo, 18RG) i can tell you that it is NOT an economically smart idea. Besides the custom engine mounts, customised gearbox crossmember, etc... you will also need a custom tailshaft. To be able to tow a car trailer, you will also need to significantly upgrade the diff. Its an expensive proposition, and to be honest, you are fvcking stupid for suggesting the idea of towing a car trailer with a KE70 - no matter WHAT motor, brakes, gearbox, suspension, or chassis improvements you make. But even moving away from that point - the conversion itself is not straightforward at all, and will cost way more than the engine is worth. I'm only doing the 18RGTE conversion because i have already built a 400HP 18RGTE, and i intend to go drag racing with it. Even with all the serious upgrades i will be making to mine (engine, gearbox, tailshaft, brakes, diff, suspension, wheels, chassis) I would still sooner take a frontal lobotomy before contemplating towing a car trailer with my KE70.

W55 gearbox.... everything else is being fabricated. I'm building a drag car, so lots of custom work. Even if you upgrade brakes to massive proportions, the chassis of the KE70 will bend and buckle under the weight of a laden car trailer. don't do it.

also - fitting the 22RE will not be easy. Custom engine mounts required at a minium. I'm putting a turbo 18RG in my KE70, and can tell you there is no "bolt-in" option for an R-series engine into the KE70.

I don't get your question.... In the normal system, the electrical load of the headlights is earthed through the "dimmer switch" in the cabin, which controls if they are high beam or low beam. Doing this, takes the electrical load away from the dimmer switch, so that the dimmer switch is just the low level trigger for the relays, and the relays carry the electrical load.

i just posted over on KE70..... your wiring needs some finesse dude, but the idea is good. I've done a similar guide to QUADLIGHT wiring before.... allowing you to have quad hi-lo beams in an early model celica. See here - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4873

yeah thats similar to what I was imagining. That is a VERY good setup for an aftermarket thermofan.

and this is EXACTLY how to do it properly. What material did the shop use to make the shroud? Got any pics?

i used a megasquirt-2 on my 18R-GE with good results. Not a bad ECU at all, especially for the price!!! RedKE70 - ok so you want a hand controller for wank feature then? Go ahead and buy a microtech..... really once the car is tuned you have NO need for a hand controller, other than to wank over the fact that you have one and are just as cool as the other homos who hang one from their dash.

laptop is fine. Having done my own tuning from SCRATCH, i can tell you that a hand controller is a waste of time. Tuning with a laptop is a MUCH better option - cos you can see sooooooo much more information whilst making adjustments. Hand controllers are a wank IMO.

mounting the thermo to the radiator core is not a good idea, because over time the fan will vibrate a LOT, and eventually damamge the tubes and fvck the radiator core... springing a leak eventually. Make brakets. Its farken EASY! Go to bunnings buy aluminium angle and flat plate buy selection of suitable bolts go home cut and bolt up to suit ??? profit.

Incorrect.... mostly. You can use the IGf signal as a low level (5V) tacho signal. I'm also quite certain that the ignitor has a dedicated tacho output as well. If you have an old style tacho that used to connect to the coil negative terminal, you might need a tacho booster to get the tacho to work from the low-level tacho signal. See here - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22574

i would also vote for Adaptronic.

is that passenger side engine mount only bolted onto the block with 2 bolts? if so, i woulve taken the plate on the block further forward to also bolt into one of the other bolt holes toward the front of the block there.... and just personally, i don't like how the rubber mount is just hanging out there on flat plate with no reinforcement. I would add a brace of some kind to avoid that plate flexing and cracking over time. Otherwise, looks like an awesome build up! Keep it up :)

correct. T18 (TE72) diff fits. CElica diff does not. T18 and celica diffs are exactly the same internally however.

custom tailshaft for me - i have a volvo diff also... so everything is custom in mine. Best speaking to a signatory engineer on this planned conversion - it could be allowed, and it might not be. Best off asking the guy who would have to sign off on it (thats what i did, but I'm in NSW).

josh - you probably wont be able to register this conversion, becasue the carby version of the 18RG ended production around 1979-1980, and the KE70 started production around 1982/83. Me personally - I'm putting a turbo 18R-GEU in my KE70, but i have already cleared this with an engineer, cos the 18RGEU was made up until 1983/84, which overlaps with the KE70 production. As for ease of fitment - i am expecting to require custom engine mounts and gearbox crossmember. I'm also using a W55 gearbox for extra strengths. In short - don't bother.

cos its farken stupid, thats why! You are likely to start a fire, or melt the shit out of your alternator/wiring at the LEAST. Without the associated charging control circuitry, one battery will discharge into the other, causing massive sulphation and an eventual short circuit in one of the batteries... oh, and the alternator (if not already munted) will die faster than that chinese dude who lost the prototye iphone. ITS JUST STUPID, don't DO IT. or do it... see if i care.

plus cut springs are just f@$king wrong. ... like buttsex in jail. You can understand why it happens, but its still fvcken wrong.