the witzl

this ranks up there in the world ranks of stupid ideas.... right along with bypassing all the safety switches in a nitrous oxide system..... fix it properly, or set fire to it.

well not much has happened lately, except sourcing parts and stuff. - truetrac LSD diff centre is on the way - mounts getting swapped onto the volvo diff in two weeks - new rubber engine mounts bought - turbosmart plumb-back BOV sourced - TE72 chrome bumpers purchased - KKR steering wheel bought - R31 skyline brake master cylinder bought - replacement heater core bought ... probably other stuff too, but can't think of them right now.

lol at the giggle... and the cameraman with parkinsons :dance: Nice job, very respectable ET.

you have to be very careful when putting the engine together or changing the timing belt to ensure you don't rotate the crank to hit and bend an open valve - this can be really annoying when doing such simple things as changing a timing belt! Personally, i would avoid it. You could get the GZE pistons flycut to avoid hitting valves?

increase in track tho mickey m? my wheels are pretty fat, so extra track might be bad for me.

i'll take $4k to put a 4age into your KE70/AE71!!!

just for my own personal info.... when doing this upgrade, doesnt it affect the resulting camber?

lol.... 10 sec 1/4 mile with an NA 3.0L..... yeah maybe a 10sec 1/8th mile. 2JZ would pose massive amounts of modifications required to fit it. For a start, the engine bay aint long enough.

i've seen 3TGTE's and 4AGTE's that make 200rwkW... and the development required to get the 3T up to that performance level is much more than the 4A. IMO, the 4A has more going for it from factory that wont require modification/development to get it working well. The factory plenum, factory 4AGZE pistons ($400/set), and factory sump/oilling system are all very good. The 3TGTE otoh.... the pistons are weak, and forgies are recommended ($800/set), the factory plenum will seriously restrict performance at around the 130-150rwkW level (replacing with a decent volume front facing plenum netted one guys 20rwkW with NO other changes)..... and yeah the factory turbo and manifold is pretty poo. That said... a mate of mine made around 130rwKW on a stock rebuilt 3TGTE, with a 7m-gte CT26 replacing the stock CT20 and mildly ported stock exhaust manifold. The rest of the negine was pretty much stock... but used a microtech LT8. Horses for courses really. If i were to chose, i'd take the 4A. The amount of aftermarket bolt on bits is just awesome.

most engine builders are used to massive chev and ford engines where massive ports are necessary to add the massive amounts of fuel/air mix for the super inefficient engine. Similar rules do not apply for high performance modern turbocharged engines. Furthermore, the advances in turbocharger design and technology mean that smaller turbochargers can now spin up faster, producing more torque lower in the RPM range, with a larger area under the power curve, and a higher peak power than older and much larger turbochargers. Thereby negating the necessity to have oversized turbos and excessive porting just to be able to spin up that turbo to get the peak power figure desired. Thats just my opinion - i think there is a balance worth investigating that yields a much faster engine in real world applications, with a much more street driveable result..... rather than something that needs 4000rpm+++ to make any power. Smallport vs bigport - to be honest i think there is more in the turbocharger selection and manifold designs than the head that is used.

there is no bolt in engine that will provide the sort of power you want. The simplest would be a 4A-series engine (4agze, or a 4age with a turbo) or a 3TGTE. Of course the former would require more development work to the engine to obtain the power you require, and the latter is a pretty old engine and hard to find in good condition.

its a common internet opinion. Personally, i feel that the smallport is a MUCH better engine. Why do you think toyota would change it if it wasnt superior?

get a smallport 4AGE and turbo it. Ive had a fair bit of experience with both engines... and whilst the 3TGTE is "period cool" to the TA22, its also a technological dinosaur compared to the 4age. Also, parts are FAAAAAR easier to get for a 4age-turbo than they are for a 3TGTE. don't get my wrong, i love the old 8V twincams (I'm building an 18RGTE at the moment), but the benefits of the 4A really are worth it IMO.

i never had to modify ANY of those things when fitting into an AE92 SX Seca.

rotaries are ghey anyway. These laws have been in place in NSW for ages.

i'd like to compare the two types of bars side by side... so someone in sydney would be preferred. i'll just give it a shot anyway.

you probably need to make a tacho signal booster to make the old school tacho work. Those old tachos are designed to measure the back EMF voltage spike from the ignition coil as an RPM pulse, but modern tachos, and most modern ECUs, produce a square wave 5-12Vdc signal pulse.... not enough for the old school tacho to register as an RPM pulse. Build yourself one of these. I've done it before for a 3SGTE in an ST162 with a Microtech LT10s and X4 ignitor (coil per plug). http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22574 Toymods is the king of tech info yo.

7AFE is the big winner in my books. Very nice comfortable torque, and pleasantly driveable. Hiro - your clunking is likely the bushes that i mentioned, closely followed by CV joints. I've done the bushes, but now the CVs are going....

if you use the 16V 4age timing cover engine mount then you don't need to modify anything, and the timing covers bolt up with no interference.

the "turd" as you put it is being built with a spastic 18RG-turbo, which will be making at least 400HP (aiming at or above 200rwKW). The speeds will make up for any other shortcomings. This aint no pussy 4a powered corolla.

20V conversion...... hard??? isnt that an oxymoron? Seriously - i could do this conversion in two weekends if i really got stuck into it. It is literally a bolt in swap - just use the engine mounts from the 16V 4age, and it just bolts in DIRECTLY. I would probably consider this more of an "engine swap" than a proper conversion.

front control arm rear bushes also flog out pretty easily. We just did ours and replaced with urethane on our AE102 CSX. Otherwise.... they are awesome.

well if someone with a set of JDM bumpers will let me have a play, that would be freaken awesome! Then i can compare and see what needs to happen with the TE72 bars to make them work with the end caps, and if that is even possible.

ae86 = witzl avoids, and has never been there. You got links? EDIT: ewww... i just went there. I think i have aids now

ok ignoring the cost of buying the end caps.... IS IT POSSIBLE? I want to know if it works or not, and what is involved. Those who have done the chrome bar swap??