the witzl

so what is the exact registered weight of the gemini? the actual capacity of the 2RZ-FE is 2438cc.... so might be a tad over the limit, depending on the original weight of the gemini. So if you are thinking NA... then perhaps a V6 would be an option? They are shorter than a big 4 cylinder, but wider of course..... maybe a 3VZ-FE, or maybe even a 1MZ-FE (will require a fair few mods tho). 3SGTE is also cool.

the cheapest way to make a 4age faster is to remove weight from the car, and improve the handling. Next cheapest is to add turbo. Otherwise you are spending $thousands to get <20% gains

yep - these guys are right, you need a fitting with a plain hose/barbed outlet to replace the stock fuel pressure regulator. don't do what the previous owner did to the 20V in the KE70 i just bought - he installed the Monza FPR in-line AFTER the stock FRP, and then had the Monza FPR referenced to atmosphere (ie. not connected to vacuum). Needless to say, the car ran ridiculously rich at anything less than wide open throttle. Anyway, what do you want an adjstable FPR for anyway? The stock toyota FPRs are fine in 99% of applications, including mega HP engines... unless you are trying to squeeze the last drop out of your already maxed out injectors.

Why not seriously consider the 3RZ-FE? Its the 2.7L hilux engine - they are fkn bulletproof inside, and are proven monster engines with a turbo attached. Torque x eleventybillion. I do love the old Toyota 8valve twincam engines, and am good friends with JMR (yellorolla on Toymods) who has built my 18RGTE. I've seen what he can do with a 3TGTE.... but you just can't deny the unfair advantage of using a late model big block 4 cylinder like the RZ series. So what's the maximum capacity you can go in the gemmi? Maybe the smaller 2RZ-FE might be an option? They are a LOT cheaper than a beams 3SGE, so you will be able to spend more money on bigger and badder mods to the RZ engine with the money saved. I know which path i would take.

the main thing draggin down GM is the 401K (pension/superannuation) packages it has been providing to its workforce since the 50s and 60s. Basically GM workers, thanks to the awesomeness of unions, are given pensions for life after working for GM for only a few years. This has meant that [something like] for every $1.00 GM currently spends in wages, it is paying another $0.50 in pensions. That's pretty horrific when you think about it.

3RZ-FE. Then turbo it. But since this thread is all about pipe dreams and fairy tits...... 1GZ-FE.

if you are using tap water in your coolant system you are an idiot. You need to use DEMINERALISED water, so that it doesnt build up mineral deposits in your coolant system which will eventually block the cooling system, inhibit its operation, and potentially fark up your water pump and other parts.

Another thing to remember is that MOST 18RGs have a rear sump to suit the RA2* celicas. You will need to get yourself a front sump and oil pickup from an 18R-C powered corona (such as RT104, or similar), so that the sump doesnt foul on the KE20 crossmember. I'm putting a Turbo 18RG into a KE70, and this is something I will have to address also. You will need to make custom engine mounts, but thats not hard at all really.

ah so you can just do a little bit of angle grinder work to make them fit nicely then, sweet. ANyway, my budget just go blown out by an excessive transport bill for my KE70, so ive had to drop the quadlight idea for now. TUrbo 18RG is far more important :P

picsorban

95*C is a good temperature to be switching on the thermofan. Personally i wouldnt mess with it, its working fine now isnt it? Does it cool down when the fan turns on? If you answered yes to the above questions, then don't touch it.

its just a standard SPST relay dude. A regular 4-pin relay can be used in it's place. Such as this - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4068

seriously.... just stick with the smallport. IMO, its the best of all the 4AGEs, and i've owned all different varieties (except blacktop 20V)

dude, there are plenty of conversion kits avaialble that include modified engine mounts to fit a CA18 or SR20 into an AE86... which means with an AE71 crossmember they will suit your KE70. Have a search around, they do exist. Perhaps Kaizen garage still has them? (he did about 5 years ago) i'd just avoid doing the S13 suspension.

you need a diff shop to cut the mounts off your stock diff and weld them onto the R31 diff axle. Then you will need a modified tailshaft, brake lines and handbrake cables, and the diff will probably need shorteneing A more viable option is a Volvo diff (aka, Dana30 diff). Tough, cheap, have disc brakes already, and LSD/locking centres are readily available for them. That's what I'm putting into my KE70, but mine is also getting a 350-400HP turbo 18RG so it needs an upgrade. But the question is - why do you need an LSD?

why do people even bother with chopped springs when proper lowered springs are so cheap to buy? Its like chosing gay sex over regular sex.

yep.... he's stuck with the 7A. PErsonally... i would just be happy with that, and save your dollars for a better car once you get off your Ps. Or buy a house instead. Then by the time you are my age you can afford 5 cars.... damn i wish i had bought some houses at a younger age instead of waiting till i was 25!

hey Roo, i'm looking at getting some quads fr my KE70, but not having been into KE70s for a few years don't know much about how they fit. Ive got a flat front KE70, so the mounting cups and shit all bolt up to the rad support no dramas, but whats the deal with people mentioning you need a JDM/NZ beaver panel?? Also, it seems that the parkers are part of the headlight surrounds on the quads, instead of a separate housing like on the stock square lights - is that correct? Are you able to get a couple of detailled pics for me to look at how they fit? Just tossing up between buying a 2nd hand pair which is missing a parker and is a little rusty... vs buying a good condition set from the phillipines. Nice car by the way - but you definitely need chrome bumpers. If you want more boost, a smallport SC12 supercharger has a smaller clutch pulley and thus makes more boost vs the bigport SC12 charger. Its a more simple upgrade than a bigger crank pulley IMO, since you can always sell the old SC12 to get your money back :dance: don't forget to also bypas the ABV, if you havent already.

just keep polishing that turd.... :dance:

Luke speaks a fair bit of wisdom here. Buying an already modified car will save you BUCKETLOADS of money compared to doing all the work yourself. Even if you buy a car that is fully modified, but has a different engine to what you want - it will still end up cheaper than starting with a stock car.... cos all the "extras" have been done for you, like the fuel system, diff, suspension, driveline, wheels, and maybe even bodywork and interior. Speaking from experience, it is ALWAYS cheaper to buy an already modified car, and just change it to meet your tastes, rather than start from scratch. Of course, if you want the whole "hands on" feel of building the car from a stock POS - then nothing compares.

i've only ever used standard organic clutches for ALL the 4A-GE engines i've owned. That includes my 4A-GTE. Cost $200... and held up to some spastic launches with the 4agte, that was AFTER a year behind my 4age being punished every day. I don't know why youd bother with a HD clutch on a 4age - they don't have any torque!

after seeing a ryco filter tear itself off a 3T-GTE engine and then melt the internals due to lack of oil.... i will never use a ryco filter. I'd sooner fill my engine with sawdust.

Fixed for you.

here's a bigger question.... what car to you have? I'm going to guess AE82 twinky, or AE92 SX. If its the AE82, or series 1 AE92 SX, then i would start with a series 2 AE92 SX/GTi front brake upgrade. I've done this on my AE82 twinky, using new RDA discs and ferodo race pads (forget what model nthat). Pulls up VERY well compared to stock worn out twinky brakes. Cost me around $350 all up, doing all the work myself. Suspension - whiteline swaybars, KYB shocks... whatever springs you chose. Flywheel - TODA, as mentioned already. My twinky has everything above except for the flywheel... and I'm pretty happy with it for a daily driver. Comfortable, yet sporty enough to have a little fun around corners.

genuine toyota filters are pretty much the best you can get for a standard oil filter. i don't use anything but genuine toyota oil filters.