1JZKe55

The last couple photos are going back a while Neil think there's 1 from the old shed in there hasn't even got the 4link in it :D

Thanks guys yeah you need a big hole for a big motor lol smoothed out the engine bay and rails it was like swiss cheese :D

should be good once its all done BUT i think your wasting your time with the sc/12 use the sc14 and you might have a hope of making 20psi :dance:

its been long day's stripping it back to bare metal

I'm not sure if the SC14 is the same but what do the 3 or 4 little vacuum hoses do on the SC12? I haven't really looked at it closely but as far as i can tell they do nothing? THEY MUST ALL BE HOOKED UP OR THE SUPERCHARGER WILL SHIT IT'S SELF those 3 or 4 little lines equalize the pressure on the supercharger bearings :P here's some info that might help When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised. The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection. To choose a setup you need to know :- 1. Engine capacity 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using. 3. Boost level desired I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below. FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi ) Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min. This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost. SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio) Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi) Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost) Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost. To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??) CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed) Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14. 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62 CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio) Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904. EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi. if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42

shaved handles umm yeah there not a big fan of them lol about 6months ago i got pulled over for a R.B.T as you see in the last photo no tray just some shity wheel arches on it two race seats in it no carpet my Gtech tach on the steering column 13in steering wheel on it the air cleaner way out the bonnet and its lumping over like you wouldn't believe 1200 1500 idle and all the cop said that i really should have my tach mounted in the dash i just about pissed my self laughing i was sure i was gonna get defected :jamie:

yeah mine is a WB it had the old bench seat in it i pulled it out and put my 2 race seats that i had in my vr and put them in i know vt on have a different rails what model did you pull your seats out of..? its 1 nice looking ute why did you get rid of it?

put the oxy kit on ebay and get rid of it that old school way of welding you put too much heat in your panels if you want small neat welds use a tig but other than that go buy yourself a 100 - 180 amp welder with some silicon bronze wire and a grinder with a 80 grit flap disc it comes off like a hot knife going through butter its all i use and i've been doing this kind of work for nearly 14 years now i'm starting to show my age lol :jamie:

if ya gonna build something you gotta use it lol you wouldn't believe this car started out as a old white wb ute blue 202 3 on the tree that was written off it was hit really hard in the front left payed $500 for it just some spec's on what i have done to it the list go's on and on Engine 308 turbo pattern bored 30tho balanced and blueprinted Brock G cast heads with L34 valves crane 310 hyd cam 8inch high rise single plane manifold Barry grant 750dp demon with all the goodies tricked up t400 stage 2 3000 stall locked up 4.44 custom made 140L drop tank 3 core triple flow desert cooler radiator with AU Thermos yes i know its a ford part but it work really well doesn't even get hot doing burnouts :jamie: Body shaved door handles 1 piece front all body the seems have been taken out of the whole car and not with bog lol got my convo's sitting there just waiting for tires

3 of the bolt hole line up with commo seats i think its the front inner bolt that need to be drilled weld a 100x100x2mm plate to the floor and tack nut to it and away ya go all legal :jamie:

think i might have 1 down my shed lol

i like it :lolcry: hey i've got a good running spare 308 with a 650 spread bore holley t400 power steering extractors b&m shifter hq stato front the 1 with the twin grills good straight rust free gards you name it i've probably got it lol

the best way to weld sheet metal is to use .9mm silicon bronze welding wire with argoshield light in ya welders it's not cheap stuff around $200 for a 5kg roll. But it uses less amps to melt (about half of normal .9mm mig wire) which means your not as likely to blow hole in what ever your trying to weld and less warping its very easy to grind and shape i use it for all my rust repairs..! like this genuine SLR 5000 the whole back window frame was totally rusted out :lolcry: oh and i think you can get a gasless version too but it would be pricey

yeah looks like it came up good :lolcry: i was lucky enough to use my mates crash shop and his painter for nothing just had to pay for what ever i used primers,clear etc where you from ?

yeah the color is 1 of the first flip paints it go's green/purple/blue $900 a liter and there's 6 liters on the car so much for a cheap paint job lol i plan on putting tray on just haven't built 1 yet too busy building cars for my mates lol oh and its soon to have a big blow through turbo set up on it once i finish the 1jz rolla :lolcry:

I thought it was about time i put my own car up on here its fun to drive if you can keep it in a straight line :lolcry: And it all started with a quick cheap paint job lol

Na it wasn't to bad i tacked a couple braces in to help hold it all in place when we were cutting everything out The chassis is made out of 75x50x2.5mm so yeah its still straight lol gave myself a tolerance of + - 1.5mm to work with in

had to notch out the rear crossmember for the 3inch exhaust and boxed in the lower suspension mounts today :S

67Rolla-Ken Nothing original left but the body shell Oh if only you knew i don't think there is 1 part of the car that hasn't been modified in one way or another lol. I don't think i'll ever build anything like this again there's just to much work in it ;)

I reckon it's about 60-80kg heaver than a standard body shell with the cage and the motor and box is good 50kg over a 4k i'm trying to keep it under 1100kg . So what is the weight of a ke55....?

so what do you guys think of it....? ;)

finished making the rest of the belly pans today didn't come up to bad just a little bit more welding to go and a clean up then ready for primer ;)

seabiscuit I hope you're leaving the standard colour!!!1! My fave factory colour of all Corolla's ;) yeah we will probably paint it the same colour but with a bit of pearl over the top just to give it that little bit

started to make the belly pans today got 1 half done

Necessity is the mother of all Inventions i need a hoist but like most people i don't have 1 so this was my solution :dance: