GJM85

I can't say i've heard of a $50 clutch. It's probably made of cardboard....

Ok, so i've left the primary jet as 125 and changed the from 153 to 163. I also pulled the pump jet out and it was completely blocked. It runs a bit better so I gues i'm getting there. I'm running a GT40 coil with no resistor with a 3k dizzy. This is concerning me but I don't have a ballast resistor to put on it. It started cutting out rolling down hill at idle speed with the clutch in. Not to sure what the go is with that. It's raining here and the 2 speed wipers are terrible. You've got slow & really ʞ©$ɟing slow. Anyone got any ideas on how to make them better.

The 5k got a new hat. +1 for autosol.

I'm at a critical point in finishing my car off. I've been doing somme midnight thunder runs lately just to see what needs to be rectified in and on the car. Just for my own piece of mind when this thing finally hits the road. For instance, the headlights seemed ok vcruising up and down the street, but at 75mph it was like driving into oblivion. The dash lights were even worse. I think i've fixed it now. My next big issue is with this cursed 5k I seem to have created. Anyone who's followed my thread would know that i've definately taken the long way around to building what has ended up being an almost stock 5k. Driving casually, the car seems fairly good. Not overly responsive, but pulls well in all gears below 4000rpm. Issue starts when I load it up for a launch. It just bogs down and casually putts off from a stand still. Then when i'm giving it some curry, with gear changes above 4000rpm, it cuts out slightly then carries on. Accelerating onwards of 4000rpm seems laboured but it sounds very happy 6000rpm. There is an exaust leak about half way down the exuast and i'm confident there are no vacuum leaks. I'm running a GT40 coil, 3k points dizzy with adjustable dwell for ignition, and a 4k camshaft. Also using a 4k carb of a ke55 with 125pri & 152 sec. Spark plugs show a greyish burn on the elctrode. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Gav

Looks like a trip to remember!

But centrifugal sounds so ʞ©$ɟing RACE! I've got one on my wipper snipper!

Do you know the specs of the camshaft your using?

Stop driving your car until you fix the fuel pump. Or get a fire extinguisher. Also, my little book say 48ftlb so 50lbs would be fine. But you need to work up to it. Start with 15lb then take it to 30lb and then finish on the 48lb. If you've just cranked up the 50 straight you could have cracked your head or damaged the head gasket.

I was using this CDI on my KE20. GT40 coil, 3k points dizzy with adjustable dwell. I've had no problems with the unit. I removed it because I was having a charging problem my car and coulkdn't work it out and removing the CDI I though might have fixed it. It turned out to be the alternator regulator and I haven't been bothered to put it back in. It still works fine. Heaps easier starting and an even idle. Didn't notice a great deal of difference in the performace department. For some strange reason it even prolonged the lift of my breaker points in the dizzy. http://www.street-fi...diignition.html If your really really keen on it I may part with it for 12,000cents (120$) ;)

Pretty sure the deluxe came with the the twin carb 3k and a tacho. Bumper mounted driving lights etc.

You mean a CDI like this one I recently removed from my ke20?

Some K banger expert probably had it custom made by HKS .... :oops: ....perhaps some one with absolutely no ability to control their clutch foot on take off!!! It most likely would have come with a plate and a throwout bearing if it was an off the shelf item.

:rocknroll:

You were saying it was too lean...?

Now considering most engines won't run an advance so far out at idle.... i'd say the cam is likely 1 tooth retarded and the distributor has been advanced to counter this. This would also cause the engine to appear lean when in fact it could be rich.

Any where between 8 and 20 degrees. Depending on the engine of course. But and I say BUT!!! If the engine runs with 60 degrees of advance at low rpm i'd dare say you cam timing is out by about 3 teeth.

What ended up being the fault?

Swap the wires over on the coil. Keep the distributor on the negative side.

Depends how far you want to go.

Your setting will be small... Real small.

Not necessarily. Maybe some good quality short stroke strut inserts to match your springs, aftermarket swaybars. strut braces. Make it rigid. Then get some slotted rotors and performance brake pads.

I've always had a thing for these rollas... It's the front end that gets me and it's sexy in black. Do the brakes and suspension. Then worry about the wheels.

Here's the hard reality. The standard 4k head and the flat top piston 5k head are basically identical. I'm running a 4k-c head on a 5k-c flat top motor with a 20 thou overbore(1566cc). The head was in good condition when I got it. I had it port and polished, skimmed, crack tested, bead blasted, valves reseated with a 3 angle grind and new vavles seals. Running a standard 4k-c cam, holden lifters, datsun pushrods, 4k rocker gear and 5k valves and springs. I had to go back to a stock cam because I ʞ©$ɟed my fresh grind doing the timing. The engine runs about 185 psi cranking compression. The only good reason for changing to a 4k head is (1)to get rid of the very holey pollution friendly 5k head and/or (2)to run a low compression set up. If you want heaps of crompression, run a big cam and machine the shit out of your head. Either way, changing to the 4k head will result in the need to change your cam, lifters, pushrods and rocker assembley. This is where the chev lifter/datsun rod combo comes in. There are other combos that work, BUT, this is a tried and tested setup. THAT WORKS! So you will need the flat top pistons (get the bore measurement and don't ʞ©$ɟ it up), a 5k head gasket, a 4k cam or equivalent regrind to suit solid lifters, Holden 186 solid lifters (202's came out with hydraulic or anti-pump hydraulic lifters), Datsun A12 motor pushrods & a 4k rocker assembly. Unless your prepared to experiment for yourself or spend the next 6 months chasing parts, just stick to that combo.

I measured up a 1j to go into my 20, just for shits and giggles. It'd need about 6 inches of wall work. :lolcry:

Found a photo of my first rolla. Trying to find one of my ae71...