love ke70

didnt read the whole thread, but turbos spool up from heat differential, not air flow, so it will spool up so slow, as there is bugger all heat left in the exhaust gases by the time you reach the muffler.

toyota would be the place to get thrust washers.

my HKS 1g was in a workshop in ipswich, went for a 3 metre swim, along with a ke70 sedan shell, and a very well running 4k in a neat-enough ke70 panelvan. but its only money if i can save the HKS bits before the rust sets in the rest can be replaced. my feelings go out to everyone thats been properly effected in this situation, its unbelievable to think its 20 minutes away and all ive got is a squelchy backyard, like it has been for weeks :blinks:

we can't fire the motor, its been waiting on a base tune for i dunno, 18 months...or more I'm gonna ring mick tomorrow and try head out there, collect the motor, pull it all apart, clean it and wd40/oil the shit out of all of it and hopefully the crank and cams are good, the rest I'm not that worried about... just don't want it to rust, the 4k i should be able to clean out in the van i have out there will hopefully clean up and run alright :)

the water was over the machanics head, and hes an easy 6 foot, all drained now. i think it is all still there, but the shell was outside the last time i saw it, i actually had another panelvan there aswell, which did have a really decent 4k in it. ahwell

my motor, and the shell we started the conversion on, with the diff all the suspension, seats etc etc, has all been for a nice swim as it was all in ipswich, whats another set back hey...

i wouldnt do a skid on the cruise, i don't think the 3t can anyway... i don't have rego yet, do you want me to PM you anyway? or just once ive got it rego'd? i could send you the californian rego, but that prob wont help much :rolls:

just give it a shot at a tyre centre, what can you lose :)

haha if i was keeping the motor i would have swapped to a decent carby already that heater tap looks exactly the same as a ke70 one. grr ill have to see what my parts people can do for me.

but if the pair have done it, you might be able to cry defective

will that be the same for electronic ignition? I'm assuming yes? just pop the rotor button off and suck away, see if anything moves?

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/arowland2/genuine%202%20door/?action=view&current=DSCN0833.jpg if you look at that pic, you will notice its different to a ke70 one, with the angles the hoses come out on anyone know if t18 match?

got it done, about half the lines were wrong, idles better once hot now, which is definately an improvement, still no vac advance, which is odd. I'm thinking maybe diaphram, how do i check this? or maybe something in the dizzy sticking? not my strong point, who can help... not a roadworthy issue, so its not bothering me too much, but it would be nice to have it, as it makes quite a difference :) thats the emissions i was playing with, its crazy spaghetti shit. who thinks i will pass with the air pump thingo no connected? theres no belt on it, and the pulley looks knackered, so heres hoping i get away with it :laff: fixed the auto fluid leak, turned out the metal line had rubbed through on the edge of the sump, so slid a length of hose over and clamped it up, all good now :) lets hope it lasts car drives much nicer now, still a bit of a vibration, so I'm thinking i might have to rotate the tailshaft and see if it gets any better, but its not that bad who has a heater tap they can sell me, the only spare i have is from the 1g car, and its modified and wont work in the stock position, the one in the car leaks like a seive. can you buy new ones still? cheers, andy

well thats a bit different to the last time i was there :blinks:

thanks for that, i ran it again today, after buying a new timing light, it was running about 50 degrees BTDC, pulled the dizzy out and put it in one tooth round, and timed it to the 10 degrees it was meant to be running, starts a bit easier now haha. so the verdict is retorque it basically now, and in 500 km? do i just back off one bolt at a time, or loosen the lot and re do them? gonna have to redo all the vac lines this arvo, as soon as it gets hot, there is a vacuum leak that appears, that i can't find, and I'm also not getting any vac advance. grr who wants to do it for me? :P and jake, if you can look it up that would be good, also if you a clear copy of the californian emissions diagrams i would love that, the sticker is getting a bit old now...

ive always done it with the box, get everything undone, lift it with an engine crane, have a helper to push and wiggle and tilt the motor box, remember to remove the bonnet, and you will get it pretty easy :)

thanks guys, the gasket set gave me no clues. the guys had had it in stock since 93, so maybe they did shit differently back then haha. there was even any torqueing sequence, or head bolt torques on the paperwork, ill double check tomorrow but don't remember seeing anything. hrmm

got stuck into it last night and today, the old man reground the valve seats, while i got down to cleaning all the carbon off the top of the block, dunno how long this gasket had been blown, but there was a nice layer of very hard carbon on top of the block that took me half a day to remove, by then the valves were done, cylinder 3 valves look likes its munched something at some stage, which made the old man happy, trying to grind the valves in with the suction cup on a pitted surface :happy: through the head on after lunch and slowly started putting everything back together, fixing the issues of missing bolts and stripped threads as i went, cleaned everything, set valve clearances and plug gaps, all the little stuff that gives you a warm feeling when its all done and running. i finished bolting it all up by dinner and went to start it, but instead did my best to start an electrical fire :P i had pulled a wire off when removing the head, and found what i guessed was the end of it and hooked it back up, when i tried to start it, it just made an odd noise, and the wire was rather hot when i went to check it :blush: found the correct wire, hooked it up, and she turned over nicely, although not starting. a bit of patience saw it start with no fiddling though, and it runs unbelievably smooth compared to what it was, sounds so nice, which if you saw the amount of pollutions gear on the carby, you would be amazed it still ran at all after 30 years and me guessing where odd hoses went :P went to check the timing, but my timing gun is missing the spring to connect into the lead, so I'm gonna have to get a new one in the morning and try again, then set the idle, and we are one step closer to rego. after how long should i retorque the head?

rub her nose in it?

JAR radiators hes a forum member on toymods, good alloy rads at good prices, think he has some ke ones left. if you can't find him on the googles or toymods let me know and ill get his details for ya :)

go 3t, i need someone to buy mine once i pull it out of the te72 :P

like it, makes sense going on a car cruise to support car related charity and then do a skid :laff:

got the head machined today, including 3 water galleries welded, joy to people not using inhibitor. also got a VRS kit at a decent price, just gonna grind the valves in and put it all back together. back to work now though so unfortunately not gonna get as much done as i have been.

if the te72 is registered by then and not halfway through being molested i might be there :)

ill post my interest, but no idea whether i will make it not...you know what I'm like :blush: