love ke70

just standard 65 brakes, and adjustable coilovers, rate and brand unknown, and koni yellows when i redo the front end, it wont be any celica/corona/sigma crap. the whole lot will be done proper overkill style, probably 4 pots etc. but for now, I'm just making the best of what ive got. not gonna bend struts before roadworthy, or ever for that matter :P

mmm, T3 is interesting, i dunno how much i can use of their gear and keep it street legal, still needs to be engineered you see... have you got info on those steering arms? what was the strut bolt spacing? and the distance from balljoint to balljoint? or a link? and yeah, i know the stub axle angle doesnt help with the RA65 gear, i will prob go with the XT130 gear, but wanna see if i can do this, to save the need, or to not have to have the top pulled in so tight on the adjustable tops... cheers, andy

pics for anyone still playing at home :) more can be found at: http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/arowland2/steering%20arms/

okie dokie, thanks for that once i get all the steering back together (replacing steering idler and tie rod end) i might have a look and see what happens, i wonder what would happen if i got some of the angle milled out of them...

hey guys, just a bit of an odd question for everyone i guess. but looking at it, i think it will solve an issue i have, but not sure of the repercussions. ok, the basics, this is the TE72 i imported from america, the 2 door sedan it will get the HKS 1g in future, at the moment i want to get it rego'd standard. its been complied, took it for safety inspection the other day, and he picked me for, among other things, a siezed shock, but said, if i wanted to put in my go fast suspension thats all good. even though its adjustable coil overs he did not have an issue, so long as height was right. the setup i had in the last car, was ra65 struts and brakes, with adjustable coilovers and koni yellows, with old school adjustable strut tops. with this setup, and standard LCAs, the best we could get out of it was 1 degree positive camber. so went to stick the suspension in the 2 door today, and as i was stripping it out of the old shell, i looked at the steering arms (ra65 ps arms), and compared them to the corolla arms. and, bare with me here... if you picture the steering arm, and the two bolts that come up into the strut, on the corolla one, if you draw a line across the centre of these, it crosses the centre of the ball joint hole aswell, however on the ra65 one, when you draw the same line across the centre of the holes, it goes behind the balljoint hole. so if you can imagine, what that does is pull the bottom of the strut further in, adding to the shite camber condition. now looking at these, my old man said, theyre on the wrong sides. but theyre not, the stamps say all is as it should be. but, can i swap them? it will bring the bottom of the strut outside the balljoint, instead of inside it, so will give a nicer camber result. the only thing that I'm wondering about is the angle on the hole for the tierod, it would be angled the opposite way, but i don't know if this will be an issue, balljoints are made to move all sorts of directions, so who can enlighten me as to why i can't do this? obviously steering stop bolt can just be run in from the other side. thoughts and opinions? if you have made it this far i thank you already! haha cheers, andy

trying to remember here, been a long time since i played this game, do the headlights bolt hard against the rad support panel? or are there brackets to hold the lights? my memory is saying theres brackets, but I'm thinking they might be a part of the light assembly and all you have to do is put nuts on, cause the bolts are captive to the light. is this correct?

cut it. decent sized job really. i might have one i could sell you...

yeah, replace the radiator support panel I'm pretty sure. or cut holes and mock up mounts. its the same game as fitting twins ;)

as has been said, most likely a cheap ass filter with no anti drain back valve. but the other thing to do is put an oil pressure gauge on it. i had a motor that would make about 3 psi at idle, and would turn the light out. but not when on a hill. oil pump was shagged in that. even if it is an engine out job, you could do it in a weekend

go the 9 inch, hilux diffs suck. or go a patrol H260, the LSDs are awesome, and you can lock them if you want i like the plan though, but only if you turbo it :rolls:

his rates are really good for what he does, the quality of his workmanship and the amount of time he will spend making sure your getting exactly what you want. but no, i would not be able to put a dollar figure to that, he would be able to give you a rough estimate quite easily though i would say

luke at the turbo shop down in southport does awesome work. if you ring him, tell him i sent you. andy with the 1g corolla and patrol ute ;) http://www.turboshop.com.au/contact

what v6 is it?

yeah, not too bad, atleast i can just swap in the good suspension and all will be good :) cheers for the heads up, ill keep them in mind

while this is impressive, theres tricks they use to make it higher than it really is. like you probably know, the gross combined weight will be X and if you take the car as it is with fluids you and all the stuff they put in after they weigh it, you will find that that +3500 is quite a bit over the specified X. doesnt mean it wont do it, ive towed an easy 4.5t with my trol, i heart turbo diesel on gas :blush: wgmg today, was driving to work this morning with no clutch. yep, really ground the gears :P clutch master decided to start leaking, and ran out of fluid to leak, so i topped it up and drove it clutchless. by the third job i went to today there was enough air vibrated out of the system the clutch was operational again. new master fitted, next is the coolant leak from the turbo and to grease the swivel hubs. poor work bitch needs some lovin hha

cams didnt rust thattt quick. the ones in the motor wernt too bad, its the ones that got left in the car for 12 months at least in the weather cause he said he was moving the car out to do some work, and didnt mention it wouldnt be going back inside, or that he would be leaving everything in the car and not covering it. nothing with this car is ever easy. its all about the journey :laff: list of things to do: 1.front RHS shock siezed (he said if i wanna put my coil overs etc in, to feel free, just keep the height good) 2. adjust handbrake (few too many clicks, it was good, til i reefed it when i put it on the trailer, and something settled in properly, so thats easy to fix) 3. RHS stop lamp out, (well it wasnt when i checked them :P ) and theres something a little funky going on with the rear lights in general, check earths. 4. exhaust leak, shouldnt be hard... 5. steering idler RHS to be replaced 6. LHS inner tie rod end to be replaced 7. front tyres are a bit shagged. and i need to get back in touch with the engineer, he didnt put on the mod plate the two seat conversion, but he wrote it on the reciept but no code so i dunno whats goin on there. but, we have a target now :)

alright, firstly let me say, i still have not recieved the cams back, nor have i had any response to the texts i sent asking about their progress, so thats pretty much sealed the deal. time to find someone new to do the motor. :glare: so i did some stuff. dunno what, its been a gradual process, just nick nacks and yesterday got the blue plate fitted for ADR compliance. VO1 i think and to make life easy, instead of fitting a child restraint point in the rear and replacing the seat belts, i just got it blue plated for the seating capacity change at the same time f@$kIN win! :D the car is now at a local mechanics and will have its safety certificate inspection tomorrow. if i was a gambler id say he will ping the leaky muffler, and maybe the dribble of fluid I'm still getting from the rear gear box seal, cause the yoke on the tailshaft is farked, big groove in it. lowered the car a little though, so it might be slid in just past that now, I'm hoping. so yeah, anyone that knows a really good engine builder and tuning shop, let me know, I'm in the market for a new one unfortunately

wgmg, my ute weighs 3.1 tonne. GVM is 2900. I'm then towing a car trailer, which is 1000kg empty, with a te72 on the back. its raining, the roads are slick as f@$k, and I'm leaving plenty of space cause ive had to adjust my electric brakes right down cause i keep locking them on the shit roads, and every phuck with wants to jump in the gap I'm leaving, to be 2 cars further up the queue at the traffic lights, or to get 10 metres further down the highway than every other bastard stuck in the same shit fight traffic jam there is every afternoon on the M1 and amen about the mud, id love to come home with dry feet for more than 2 days a week for the first time this year sometime soon >|

i could ahve sold you a condensor for cheappp is it a GRA one?

beat the missus down and save the cash then :P keep your pimp hand strong

effin oath to that. all our portaloos don't have the flap, just a seat, and a 1 foot drop into blue paradise. I'm a framing carpenter, so we show about around a week after the concretors, or a bit sooner, and the number of times the blue paradise is just a swamp of maggots is ridiculous. and after the first time we see it get cleaned, it rarely gets like it again. cleaned fortnightly btw. hit up health and safety for a weekly clean in the summer months and the bastards in the office wont give the extra dosh for it. apparently having flies which just spawned from maggots in the portaloo flying around and landing on the aforementioned sammich made by masons misso is not a heath hazard... but using phones while we work, or walking on the top plate is an offence to get you kicked off the job :rolls: so yes, concretors are the ones that shit maggot breeding shit. i hate concretors. I'm sure they don't eat enough fibre and thats their issue, but whats to be expected from alcoholics. mason, whats the complication?

it seems you don't have the cash to support such spending, so why are you spending the cash?

are you dragging the car or doing it for looks? moving the leaf springs inboard is quite likely to have a rather negative effect on handling

the old piston maracca, one of my favourites :)

the pistons is suspected of being cracked by being stood on, and as its just a 4k, i reckon a single will be fine :wink: