love ke70

people that don't drink, theyre always so tightly coiled :P no offense was intended, its just my experience, and ill refer to previous comments ive made in other threads about needlessly increasing maximum oil pressure...

plasti-gauge it and stop being a tight arse, put the new pump in, just don't go to the pub for a fortnight, its gonna need one, your kidding yourself that it wont...

you could pay me to drive down and bring it back on my trailer... 60c/km

why not rebuild the one your selling?

whats the purpose of this "coil" ? not talking about a flex joint are you?

mmm might be worth just checking the shoes and if not just tighten the cable up a bit at the handbrake. amazes me people would do this :blinks:

yeah, the arm that drags the strut forwards, got two nuts on it, one behind the bracket, move it further down the arm to drag the strut further forward... they probably never bled the brakes when they changed all this stuff over maybe? did they also change the diff? handbrake not working well could just be rear shoes needing adjustment? cheers, andy

id be checking your earths and all the connections, taking them off and cleaning them, all the earth you can find, and connections of + to alt and starter. i would suggest the car doesnt have enough caster at the moment, not enough caster will make it all very flighty. ie the further the wheel is to the front of the car the heavy the steering feel will be and the more it will stay in a straight line. maybe old mate changed steering wheel, and didnt put it back on straight. should be easy enough to work out when you do your wheel alignment?

how long had ABS been a mainstream thing in 96? sounds like it was more top end cars, which would make them more likely to be involved in singles due to being high performance etc, or mercedes S class, and everyone knows people in S classes can't drive for shit

MMM like my radiator developing a leak where the tubes join the end plate you mean :P didnt know about leaving it over night. would leaving it in the sun be better, as the sun 'kills' the chlorine? might have to fill a couple of buckets lol what do you do to flush the block etc? as even when you take the drain out of the block some gets left behind....

that is interesting maybe ill have to stop using tap water does the coolant not stop the chlorine reacting with the aluminium? what do they used in premixed coolants?

maybe based solely on material used it might be similar, but I can assure you, a triple core copper/brass rad in a patrol will only be marginally better than a standard twin core aluminium/plastic one, and yes, thats 45mm vs 32 but then theres ebay complete double core aluminium ones that are thicker than the standard ones and don't cool anywhere near aswell, so maybe it comes down to construction as much as materials not trying to start a shit fight, just my belief and a number of peoples experiences. cheers, andy

yeah bro, learn to drive, it will save you ten times to the one ABS will save you.

looked into doing it by rail?

firstly, let me start by saying I'm not trying to put you off this, as in the past i have bought a non running, semi completed conversion (1g ke70 that had been running but now wasnt) you will be told its only this and that to do, and that its a piece of piss etc etc, buttt, you will find lots of things that have not been done, or not to your standard, not through any fault of the seller, but things get missed and we all want things done differently. So expect to spend probably double what your budgeting, if not more. by the time it gets to this, you then fire the motor up, and whos to say thats not gonna need a rebuild? been sitting a long time = headgaskets go soft, might not have as much compression as you want and blows oil etc, your jumping into a world of unknowns. but thats what its all about right? :D

anything under 1M basically they will send check out auspost.com.au that will explain the dimensions they will post and you can get a quote

the less weight it has the better it will cool.

you don't need a uni you can get to straight on, i did mine with an extension and a rattle gun with the motor out, and an extension and a ratchet with the motor in. those bolts are nothing compared to some ive done...

copper/brass aluminium cools better and weighs less, thats why theyre used these days :)

in future try and hang onto the rad, sometimes they can re-use your tanks, or need the brackets to braize on, and you coulda sold it as scrap metal and got 10 bucks for it from your local metal recycler. your best bet mate is to get on the yellow pages and start ringing around, theres only really 2 good core suppliers anymore, so ringing around will give you an idea of whos not putting as much of a markup on the items... cheers, andy

i see the forsale thread is up, but thought i would keep the discussion in that one down and ask here instead, I'm assuming your pulling these swaybars off something are you? just wanted to know because i need to check if this will fit around the diff thats in my car, so can i ask, what are they off? cheers, andy

what justin said, why fit something different when you could get one thats made to fit?

thats cause new vehicle stuff isnt really tight, the filler plug probably hasnt been removed for 10 years on this box, new cars havnt had chance to corrode together.

people still use 12 point sockets? only sockets i use are 6 face impacts, unless its really tight and i need a thinner 6 face shiny one

vmx 80. jam the penrite shit done old mates throat. castrol is the f@$kin win, penrite can keep their fancy packaging. in future, pull the plug out before you put the box in ;) is it a nut or is it the one you stick a 1/2" square drive in and turn and is round on the outside? if the later, a good pair of vice grips arond the outside should get it. do it every time i do diff oil on my patrol cause ive worn so much off the filler plug draggin it on rocks :P if its a nut thats stripped, try encouraging a ring spanner on there in a slightly smaller imperial size, or straight jaws vice grips will likely work. or if you just can't get it undone, try harder or use something longer, just make sure its on there good :) if it were me, id get the filler plug out, fill the box from the shifter hole, and have a mate or your old man or missus under the car ready to throw the nut back in as soon as it starts coming out and telling you to stop filler, its easier than getting to the side of the box :)