love ke70

mitch is right from everything ive read on this forum over the past 5 years. unless you get the odd 4k with thicker bores might get away with it na, but no good for turbo

if your convertor doesnt say to clean it off, don't clean it off, if it does say to though, do so. and I'm pretty sure you shouldnt put it in contact with paintwork :) other than that, altezza is on the money cheers, andy

yeah some you wash off and some you leave on. i used the white knight rust gaurd on my trailer, and as was said, it really only works on slight rust. if its pitted, no hope, its really a de-oxidiser, so it will de-oxidise whats been oxidised, but only to a certain extent...

gjm, not necessarily true, i need to ring a guy about getting billets for my 1g made, but he was implying it was affordable...

i see i see, so i could in fact, set it all up unboosted, see just how bad it really is, then if I'm particularly unhappy, setup a remote booster, as its totally unrelated to the M/C thanks for that mate :)

ive got a complete 3tc with crossmember, all factory gear that will bolt in, you will just need to put a manual behind it, as its auto at the moment...

evan it still wont fit, it fouls on the MC aswell as the booster mitch, you just run what line in and out? sorry to appear dense, but I'm not sure how these boosters work, or any booster to be honest :P i will probably try without the booster, but if your saying theres a way i can get a boosted setup if i have to, I'm just trying to understand. while i understand you can get a remote booster, what do you connect it to? cheers, andy

how does the remote booster work with the tilton pedal box?

ok, good news. got the car weighed this morning so this is now with the 1G, the W57, the alfa diff, my steel wheels, 15x7 front and 15x8 rear, fuel tank probably 3/4 full, i cbf filling it, just to pour it away at a later date, the rad is in, battery in boot, muffler in boot, no water in rad and no engine oil, but i reckon that counteracts te 3/4 tank of fuel, which was full when i first got the corner weights done. No intercooler or turbo, but other than that, pretty well everything is there. with no driver and with driver so looking at that, ive added 27.5 KG but the percentages front to rear with me in the car has gone from 56% on the front down to 52.7 on the front. so, thats really f@$king cool. :D just gotta shift a bit more weight to the right of the car, but I'm sure we can find 20kg to stick on the right hand side somewhere. by the time the cage goes in the balance will probably be slightly biased to the rear, seeings as when I'm in the car it improves the front/rear percentage, the same will likely happen with the cage, which is gonna be obviously mainly behind me, with just the front hoops and strut braces coming into the front end... but yeah, we're good to go :D

mmm i wont have a booster, can't run them on these, unless you know of something i don't? how much you want for the floor mounted one? cheers, andy

mmm yeah, i think it would matter if my brake pedal snapped, street, track or hillclimb, id still be a touch upset... i was just looking into the floor mounted ones, how much you want for yours? whats the part number or got a link? i just wasnt sure how a floor mount would fit, and how it would go for pedal movement, ive always thought hanging pedals nicer to operate. and mitch, what is it you do? you seem to have alot of knowledge for someone playing with a matte black corolla on stockies in a paddock :P

anyone know the standard pedal ratio? 6.2 is the best i could get, maybe ill have to measure up a ke70 one tomorrow and see what it is... will also depend on MC size, the smallest i can get in wilwood is 3/4, from what old mate at performance wholesale was telling me, wheras the tilton goes down to 5/8 and 7/10 but he couldnt even find what i was looking for til i rung him back with the p/n, and it was listed in the computer all along, so thats putting me off, but the wilwood gear is cheaper, and only real trade off seems to be you can't adjust the pedals... might search MC sizes. to update todays progress, well, it was slow after the time spent this morning looking into the brakes and talking to the engineer, and it was fecking cold, but i did get everything into the car, which was tailshaft, brake calipers etc, and got the weight on the car, and with the weight on, the ball joint is within its operating parameters on the tie rod, with the steering arms on the wrong sides, but the issue is the steering arms hits the wheels. so i had to swap them over, which resulted in me running late to get the car weighed, and without looking at the time left, and when i did think of the time and ring, at 5 to 5, the guy had already gone home, so peak hour traffic with a rather large trailer was fun, took me an hour to drive the 40 ks home. so thats first on the plan tomorrow, then get the car down to luke, then go over to racer industries and put my arse in some seats and check out these pedal boxes, then compare prices to some online retailers, gonna look at prices online for the pedal stuff now, its not even too bad locally.

ok, so i looked into both the tilton and the wilwood options looking at going for this http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=13&m=b in the aluminium, with adjustable pedals, and 6.2 ratio. thanks for the heads up on those :) only issue is it seems you can't run a booster, not even remote from reports, and no one seems to list a boosted option. while i don't have to run a booster for legality purposes, i do have to be able to stop the car with less than 60KG of force on the pedal, to keep it street legal. fluid inside the cabin is not an issue so long as reservoir can be accessed etc. i i can keep the MC's small enough, and the brakes good, pedal force may not be too bad, but i wanna clear up my options before i spend cash. not too expensive though, which is a win. :) tomorrow i might try get to a wreckers and see what they have in vans etc, which must have an overhung one like these, and I'm assuming a booster. slow, the issue with modifying the intake, or going to a custom intake, is the amount i would lose. to make it work, i would virtually have to remove the entire plenum top, down to the runners of cylinder 5 and 6, this pic from my old setup should make it clear how high the plenum sits, compared to the brake master: cheers, andy

thanks for the tips on motors, we shall see what happens :) today i got stuck into the corolla, after stripping out an old wagon over the weekend and losing a couple of days. On Monday i swapped diffs on the 2 door, and got my alfa diff in, have rotated the thingy that the brakes bolt to,the word escapes me, that bolts to the end of the axle housing, rotated that 180* so instead of the brakes being at the bottom back of the rotor, theyre not at the top front, which is basically where they should ahve always have been, but it wasnt setup this way when i got the car, and i didnt think to do it until we rebuilt the diff. this means the brake lines wont have to be squashed in behind the shock anymore, and also means the handbrake cables run exactly as standard, which means the handbrake cables i have had made previously are now too long...dammit. hopefully i can get them shortened :) then yeserday pulled motor, box and struts started this morning with this so i started by going back to the old game of playing with the ra65 steering arms and putting them on the wrong sides, not sure if its gonna work, will have to see how the car sits once the weights on the front, but I'm not too hopeful, which is a shame. i put my coilovers in, with the 2 doors strut tops, cause the bolt pattern is different, so gonna have to order some adjustables. then i put my crossmember in, without the rack obviously, still running the steering box etc, which means the draglink hits one mount for the rack, but owell, its only for a dummy run to weigh and do cage. then i started on assembly a dummy motor, by the afternoon i had this and then i had to go buy some gearbox bolts, (why do they always seem to be the ones you can't find? :glare: ) and bolted the box on with no clutch, cause that it seems has vanished in the flood, so twin plate is looking more promising. and with some wrangling and some good help from the old man, we managed to get the motor in the bay, with the box attached, without dropping the crossmember, just had to take intake manifold off and tilllttttt the motor :) What i was very happy with was this the rad fits ! which was a serious drama back in the day. thats the standard rad out of the car, considerably bigger than a ke70 one though. core size is 565x320x30 and as you can see, ive cut the third ring off the harmonic balancer, but the bolt still sticks out, i could probably run a full balancer by the looks of what i have there, but i wouldnt get the motor in the bay with a full one on, so if i swap it, it will be once the motors back in. i have 35mm between the end of that bolt and the rad, so a thicker core is an option, and thats everything still inside the front rails. my old gearbox crossmember from the white car, is completely off, the angles are out, the holes are in the wrong spot etc, so ive got one bolt in that, and a strap poking up through the shifter hole with a screwdriver through it, to stop the box falling out. Luke at turboshop can do me a new crossmember before he does the cage, I'm sure he will have something very trick in mind :cool: the one drama i do have, is quite a biggie. intake manifold, it does not fit! :( so ive got 2 options i think RHD conversion....gheyy or, remote booster and master cylinder, which i need to look into, but it seems doable, maybe even under the dash to keep the bay clean, but I'm not sure how well that works, how legal it is, and how hard it will be. if anyone has any knowledge about remote boosters and stuff id love to hear it :) at the moment I'm thinking of remote mounting booster, and fabing the brake pedal, so i can move the master cylinder over 50mm, and bolt it to the firewall still, i can't imagine offsetting the top end of the brake and clutch pedal so i can move the masters over 50mm of so would be too hard, opinions? tomorrow ill finish getting all the basics in the car, take it to be weighed, and get it down to luke to start the cage, friday i need to load my gear for work, and saturday I'm off to the races, leave sunday morning for a fortnight working in carnarvon gorge. so I'm gonna need my speedy shoes on tomorrow i think! cheers guys :) andy

why can't you just put normal springs back in for the time being? why is it such a bad thing, having cut your springs? why is this posted in car sound?

well theres something i didnt know :)

give it a try, i would imagine it should

65 at idle hot or cold? if hot, I'm concerned, whats it go up to at revs? for reference, my 4.2 diesel, which I'm very protective of, when hot at highway speed, 2500rpm, can run 32-34 psi, which doesnt bother me, i actually went down to this thinner oil... cheers, andy

alright, mad shit, ill try and remember to let you know if i do end up selling, or if you do want these, PM me in a couple of weeks or something and we can come to an arrangement

excess oil pressure results in increased (greatly!) surface temperatures on the bearing surface.

you could probably do pinion bearings yourself, but usually by this age they need more than that where are you located? i could have a diff for you, in yatala. and i remember reading, a 2mm washer under the oil pressure relief valve spring, essentially increasing the pressure required to push the valve open.

i might have for sale soon, my RA65 struts and brakes, with coilovers and koni yellow shocks. not positive yet, but pretty sure I'm gonna go with something new in my new car, so depends how much of a rush you are in, if not, ra65 is another option for good brake upgrade and stuff

dropping a cylinder will be water in the dizzy or on the points. your lucky it started. coolant and oil, thrashing it, coolant over flowed got thrown around by fan. oil, is you pcv hooked up? and how goods the seal on your dipstick?

hmm, interesting, 5 cylinders...that would turn some heads. only had a quick look around, looking like custom bell housing and turning to suit RWD might have alook around for weights...

ok. so car is going quite well. motor is very good, advanced the timing, goes a shit load better than it did. auto has managed to leak enough fluid that theres spray all the way up the back of it. glad i degreased that for rego :blinks: amazing it passed lol i put in 1500ml this morning, drove from yatala to molendinar, and on the way back it was slipping from lack of fluid again. other than that i can't fault it really. I have found an engineer thats going to approve everything I'm doing, including a weld in 6 point structural roll cage. so it will have more than 6 points. will brace strut towers, have connections along the A and B pillars, the seats will get mounted to the cage, with the harnesses, and in the rear it will be built with the provision for coilovers to connect up to it in the future, or at least, it will be kept in mind during the construction stage. Cage will be built by Luke at turboshop. We will start it ASAP, ive just gotta pull my finger out getting the 1g in the bay and getting it weighed again. On friday i took the car over the public weighbridge for my own interests sake, and also to get a certificate for the engineer, so we could decide what capacity engine is acceptable. was surprised for it to come in at 960 KG with a full tank of fuel and the spare. only thing missing was the rear seats, thought it would be more, considering the 3Tc is no light weight, has a bigger diff in it than Aus corollas, bigger struts etc. reason for weighbridge ticket is cause its an import theres no listing for the car in the QLD transport book to look at a recognised weight. so that means 2.4 is the biggest turbo motor i can go with. i then went up to fulcrum suspension and got the car corner weighted, firstly to measure axle weight, and secondly for a rough idea on vehicle balance. http://robrobinette.com/corner_weight.htm that link has some good info on corner weighting, and has the link to the spreadsheet I'm using, with some good basic info on corner weighting a car, worth a read for those interested in handling. first graph here is without me in the car, the cross weight is good in my opinion for a 30 year old car. I then hopped in, and as you can see, it through the cross weight out a bit, but actually slightly improved front to rear weight which is a promising sign, considering i want to be able to move the seat back more than it does now, and the main hoop is going to be well back from the point the seats bolt to, so that should put a good bit of weight toward the rear. so the plan is, to finish gutting the wagon ive got in the shed at the moment, then say bye bye to the 3t and auto and diff, put my diff, W57 and 1G in the car, with the old crossmember from the white car, just dummy up a motor, block and head, manifolds with a couple of bolts, sit a turbo on, probably just sit a weight at the front for the intercooler, cause i think mick from ipswich still has the cooler and my new rad, so I'm gonna ahev to get onto him about that :yes: move the battery to the boot and whatever else. then ill take the car back to fulcrum, redo the corner weights, and see just how much worse this setup makes the balance. once i have those figures i can decide whether to install the cage and weigh again and see whats happened, or if its really bad, decide then and there to make it better by shifting hte motor back, or changing motors. so yeah, thats the plan :)