rian

No way! that's just sad, AE71s are so awesome. And that one was really crisp wasn't it? Serious bummer dude. At least you could use the parts to make another neat AE71 out of a KE70 or something. Mine is fine now, I still drive it everyday. I guess I'll slowly fix it up over time and maybe I'll even learn some skills doing so, I'm pretty spastic at car stuff so it may be a good thing to get the opportunity to practice that sort of thing on a smashed up old KE :y:

This should become the crashed car thread. Evan that seriously sucks man

That's what I did, I had no idea what a porta power was until someone suggested it to me. It worked really well, pushed most of it out but it still looks like shit, all the little dings and creases are still there and the paint is cracked. But I don't mind too much because it's still drivable and looks okay from a distance, plus I now have $1700 towards a new car :)

I put some pics in the post above for you, hope it helps.

Don't have to change anything but the bonnet, they are the same car just with different engines This is an AE71: This is a slant front KE70: And this is a KE70 flat front (normally has plastic bumper):

The flat front and slant front versions of KE70 have different bonnets, if the 84 KE70 is slant front it should fit your AE71, and I think the later model KE70s are slant front so an 84 model bonnet should fit.

You must have the GT40R, you should probably run the resistor with that. I think if you want to get rid of the resistor get a GT40 (without the "R"), then the heavier wire that goes into the resistor (it comes out of inside of the front right quarter panel I think and is black and red?) goes onto the +ve on the coil. Edit: I'm pretty sure that's how it goes, I'm going to run out to my car now to check. Edit #2: Here's how mine goes: -Wires from front right quarter panel: Black/Red wire goes to positive on coil(used to go to resistor) Black/White wire earths out under the coil bracket Plain black wire goes to negative on coil Plain red wire goes to positive on coil -Wires from distributor: Black/White wire goes to positive on coil Brown wire goes to negative on coil -Noise suppressor thingy goes to positive on coil By the way this is in a KE70 running an electronic dizzy without the ballast resistor, I'm pretty sure I got everything right. Hope it helps

I wish! But seriously I don't think you could do it that cheap, unless you knew peeps who knew the right peeps

I'm upgrading to an electronic dizzy and using a Bosch GT40, although the GT40 has been discontinued and replaced by the GT40T but it says on the front of the GT40T box "WARNING: use only with contact points ignition systems" or something similar to that. So I don't know what the go is there as I thought the GT40T was the one you use with electronic dizzies and the GT40RT was the one you used with points dizzies. Anyway you can get the old style GT40 on ebay (cheaper too) if you decide to go electronic dizzy, and ditch the resistor if you do, otherwise go for the GT40R like SLO-030 suggested. Edit: I thought 4k-u engines had electronic dizzies? I'm pretty sure I have an old 4k-u electronic dizzy sitting in the shed at home.

Yeah I've already sussed out US ebay for AGXs, I'm getting some soon. So syked! Edit: I saw that pic of your strut when you posted it up just then, those T3 gland nut/spacer combo things are cool, and probably cheaper than a coilover conversion, and they'd be legal wouldn't they, whereas I don't think coilovers are without being engineered. Awesome!

Thanks for the pics they help a lot. Next time I have money I'm going to have to get myself some of those AGXs, they're what I should have bought in the first place :(

So with AE86 strut inserts and similar, the body is 43.5mm OD but either narrows down to or steps down to 40.5mm at the top of the body where it meets the gland nut, is that right? I'm yet to see an AE86 strut insert as I bought this setup secondhand with the skyline inserts already in there, and I'm now a little confused as the gland nut that came with the setup has an ID of ~43.5-44mm yet fits into the strut casing nicely, and I just assumed this was a standard AE86 gland nut. So either the gland nut that came with the setup is off something else or it has been machined. Next time I do something like this I'm just going to buy the right gear straight up haha. Thanks for the help parrot, and I think you helped me out last time I had a problem like this so yeah thanks, I appreciate it.

Sorry I didn't explain it very well, I meant the body of the damper doesn't fit inside the gland nut. The nut goes into the strut fine, the shaft fits through the hole, and the thread fits good. But the gland nut won't fit over the body of the damper, the inside diameter of the threaded part of the gland nut is smaller than the outside diameter of the damper. Which doesn't make sense to me because I thought AE86 struts were 43.5mm OD and the inside of the threaded part of the gland nut is only ~40mm, the dampers I have now are 41.5mm OD and they don't even fit in. I think AJPS sent me the wrong ones, I would have just called him but it's a sunday, and I really wanted to get it sorted today. Heaps bummed out

My gland nuts from AJPS arrived the other day, I went to put them in today and they don't fit. I was under the impression AE86 and most Toyota strut inserts are 43.5mm in diameter, and the gland nuts I just received for AE86 struts have an inside diameter of ~40mm? Did I stuff up somewhere? I'm using dampers from a Skyline that are 41.5mm in diameter in AE86 struts and they only just don't fit inside the gland nut, is grinding the top of the damper down the slightest bit just silly and dangerous? The dampers get fatter at the top and the tube seems like it would be a little thicker there so it might work and it only needs to be the slightest bit smaller to fit inside the gland nut, I really don't know if I should though. Has AJPS sent me the wrong gland nuts?

Only when you can no longer turn, then you've gone too low

hellyeah that's cool

Okay thanks guys, now the next question is what coil do I use? I recall reading somewhere that a Bosch GT40 is one I can use, but I had a look and there are a few different kinds like GT40, GT40R, GT40T etc. What have some of you guys used?

Hey everyone, So I've swapped out my old points dizzy for a new electronic one with an internal ignitor. It runs fine and everything but the ballast resistor is causing issues, occasionally the engine dies and I just have to fiddle with the connections on the ballast resistor and off it goes again. I've just had a quick google about upgrading points dizzies to electronic ones and from what I've read you no longer need the ballast resistor once you've upgraded to an electronic dizzy as the resistor is just to prolong the life of the points. So tomorrow I'm going to remove the ballast resistor, but now I'm wondering, will I need to upgrade the coil as the voltage would increase with the removal of the resistor? Or will the standard coil be fine? I don't have a very good understanding of how it all works and this may just be a silly question but any pointers or input of any kind would be great. Thanks, Rian

I've read a fair few times that they're too short and that there are better alternatives, there is a list around on this site (I think it was this site) somewhere that says what shocks fit and the dimensions of each, a search might find it

If KE30 ones are the same as KE70 ones then they won't fit, but thanks anyway

Those are the kind I want, this is the kind I don't want: http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.msprotege.com/members/Jeff%40Tri-Point/gladnutbody.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php%3F123651640-Jeff-Tri-Point-Koni-DA-Custom-Coilover-Log&usg=__H1wbe5Qv0W8YOLIbu_wa_psDOfo=&h=600&w=800&sz=56&hl=en&start=20&zoom=1&tbnid=8iHacesV0OMSpM:&tbnh=107&tbnw=143&ei=zR85TayuM4mmvQORv7CNCg&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dgland%2Bnut%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26biw%3D1568%26bih%3D705%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1 Yeah I have a tool somewhere that will fit I hope, maybe a little smidge of thread lock in there will do the trick as well. And I've already got $1.20 under each shock in mine (two 50s and a 20cent piece haha). Thanks for the help pal, I've been trying to get my suspension sorted for ages and this will be the last thing, although now that my car is wrecked it doesn't really matter :(

Dave I think I love you, seriously is there anything you don't know? Thanks heaps, I'll try ajps now Edit: are the ones you got from ajps the hex ones? Because I'm sick of trying to find/making tools to fit the round ones with the two holes in the top.

Refer to last post Hi everyone, I'm trying to find gland nuts (the big nut that holds a shock inside a strut tube, I think that's what they're called) for AE86 struts, so far places like repco and supercheap haven't been able to get them in for me. Does anyone know of a shop that sells them or can order them in? If not the local wreckers has a T18 sitting in the yard and I was wondering if T18 gland nuts would fit in AE86 struts, or is the thread different? I don't think they would want to sell the gland nut separate so I may have to buy the complete strut, but if I remember correctly T18 struts are the same as or very similar to AE86 struts and thus would make a good base for a coilover conversion yes? If so I may as well buy the complete strut if it's cheap enough. Any help or pointers would be great. Thanks, Rian.

Cooler than Freddie Jackson sippin' a milkshake

It's all been sorted, she agreed to pay what I initially paid for it, which now that you all have pointed it out and I have had a little think about it, seems to be quite a good deal considering I still have the car to use for whatever purpose. And if anyone has a KE70 in good condition around Brisbane or Byron Bay that they wish to sell let me know ;) or maybe even an earlier model if I can afford it