rian

bitchin!

Hey everyone, recently I installed AE86 front coilovers in my KE70. They are the threaded sleeve weld on type and there's something funny going on with them. Now I didn't make them but I've been told they have a Pedders R31 Sports insert in them and the casings have been shortened an unknown amount, although I measured them and they are ~400mm on the outside from top to bottom. The problem is that they have movement in the shaft and this can be felt as a clonk when you go over a bump, and the shaft can be seen moving from side to side when you jack the car up and push and pull on the strut casing. Yet the shocks work fine and don't appear to be leaking, initially I thought one of the bushings in the insert would have been worn and allowed the shaft to move, but this I'm guessing would lead to the seals wearing very quickly and the shock would leak and no longer work properly? I don't have much of an idea of the internals of shock absorbers so I'm not sure of this. Then I thought maybe R31 inserts are a different OD to AE86 inserts, I'm fairly sure the insert is meant to have an OD of 43.5mm and I had a quick google of R31 inserts and didn't really find anything reliable but read somewhere that the OD was ~41.5, still not sure of this. So my first question is; can anyone think of, or does anyone know why of this is happening? And my second question is; If I have to replace the inserts, can someone recommend a brand and model, preferably adjustable, that will work with 8kg/mm springs? I'm think of KYB AGX inserts but I'm aware there are many different models that fit with all different lengths, and I want the car to be pretty low so i can just tuck tyres on 13 or 14inch wheels. Any help or ideas would be really great. Thanks, Rian

I had a similar problem to this, turned out the connection on the ballast resistor was worn out and rusted. Might be worth a look, I think someone mentioned it above

that's awesome!

I'm not sure on the colour, I'll send him a message now and see if I can find out Edit: just messaged him, it's just an off the shelf white 2pak from luxury paints, he's going to have a dig around for the empty can tomorrow and see if there's anything on it that will make it easily distinguishable from other whites or whatever

I just remembered that after I posted it, can someone move it or something? Anyway it's so gnarly everyone should see it

looks like this:

Ken Blocks latest vid, madness!

looking fresh buddy! those wheels fit so neat, what are the specs on those?

Don't park in sketchy places. Or install an alarm

The central locking works great, cost me $100 from autobahn and it's basically already wired up when you get it, you just plug it into power and it works. I left out all the fancy stuff like making the indicators flash and the horn beep and all that. It comes with these little brackets that mount to the inside of your door, then you mount the actuators to the bracket and secure the actuator rod to the locking mechanism rod with some grub screw thingies that come with it all and it's done. I'm not sure it needs a write up, they make it so easy. Here's the kit I used: Here's how I did the front, pop riveted one end of bracket and just screwed the other into existing hole: And here's how I did the rear, just used some weird washer things I had laying around to secure it: (you can't really see it but it's to the left of the door handle, you can see where the weird-shaped washers are) Make sure the window has room to wind down before you mount it, and make sure that the latch thing that stops the door opening too far has room to move (in the rear door). It's a pretty poor write-up but maybe it will help someone.

Replaced all the fuses and fusible links, relays blah blah. But it turned out to be the resistor that is on the earth side of the coil, the connection was all loose and rusty. Just an annoying coincidence that it happened to fail right when I installed the central locking, leading me to think I'd wrecked something. If anyone finds they have a problem like this definitely check that resistor, it's not the first time it's happened to me

Hey everyone, today I installed a central locking system in my KE70. It worked fine and everything, but later on I tried to start the car and it wouldn't go. The 4K starts but dies very quickly after the starter motor stops turning it over, it won't rev or anything. I suspect I've blown a fuse somewhere but I checked all the fuses I know of ( next to battery, next to steering wheel under dash) and they all appeared fine. The way I wired the central locking system up was just constant power from battery to sensor unit, then earthed into a bolt under the dash. I know I probably sound like a total n00b but I really can't figure out why it won't go. Does anyone know what I've done wrong? Edit: just realised there are more fuses behind the driver's side kick panel, but still didn't find anything

Is this for real, does anyone on here own this? If so please do a write up or maybe there is an existing thread? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Corolla-1984-KE70-100kw-4wd-rally-car-rollcage-/250717095175?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3a5fe74507 That would be so fun

+1 on painting it beige

ae86 struts maybe? ke20 tie rod ends apparently don't fit too well in the ae86 steering arms, too loose or something, but i'm sure there is an easy solution.

That would make so much sense and that's what I thought originally, but the line fitted up fine so i assumed it was the correct one... until it began to leak everywhere. I'll try a new line and see how it goes. Thanks LittleRedSpirit

Hey everyone, I've just recently got some ae86 coilovers and brakes, but I'm having trouble getting the brake line to seal into the caliper. All the lines bolt up fine and everything but when i try to bleed the brakes fluid begins to leak from the left hand caliper where the line screws in. I have noticed that the lines I have seem to be different for left and right, where the female end of the line and male end inside the hole in the caliper press together, there is a different taper on the faces of the ends for the left caliper and line and the right caliper and line. And I'm assuming this is normal. But at first I didn't realise this and put the wrong line in the wrong hole. I have changed them over so the correct line is in the correct hole, but now the left one has had a hissy fit and won't seal. Is the any suggestions on fixing this? Will loctite do any good, or will the brake fluid slowly eat it away? Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks, Rian.

http://www.ajps.com.au/parts/fibreglass_products.asp

spacers?

gross

Thanks guys. And that's a good idea fusion, I feel a bit silly for not thinking of that.

Hey everyone, I've just got a lock spacer from AJPS and I was thinking about putting it in today. I just had a few questions first; do i need to use one of those little locking clip things between the rack end and the spacer or will loctite do? and if i don't need a little clip thing does this gap matter: as the rack end runs out of thread for the spacer to go on to Thanks for any help, Rian

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor

that thing is seriously cool benzo, it makes the ke in front look like a 4wd