rian

http://www.willtheyfit.com/ Try this, it will give you the dimensions you want to know :y:

Just go through them until you find the blown one, there can't be that many? If it's not that then you must have wired it up wrong.

Screw the keto, I'm putting mine towards a shit-box van to travel around Australia in, or more tools to fix said shit-box van when it breaks lol

AllCrash Parts make bonnets for flat-front KE70s but not slant-front, I know you can order AllCrash parts through Supercheap Auto, not sure about Repco/Autobahn etc. And I'm not sure on a price either sorry. Here's the link: http://allcrashparts.partsales.com.au/dealersearch/dealer_login.jsp?site_id=1243 Ignore the "username" and "password" section, you can search parts without it.

What state are you in? I swear it's heaps easy getting a roadworthy in NSW... Just make sure you've got no leaks/tears/breaks/major rust/worn parts and you should be sweat, if you do, then replace that part. Tyres are probably the most expensive part that you may have to replace for roadworthy, definitely check those, but it's usually annoying little stuff like broken rack boots or a worn bush. If you've got tools and a little bit of know-how it should be easy :y: I have no real idea how it works outside NSW, but I think in Queensland the person selling the car has to get the roadworthy certificate, or at least is supposed to, so you shouldn't really have any hassles if you are registering it in QLD, which rules.

Agreed. Don't pay for someone else's shit mods that you're only going to change anyway. 7kg rear springs in a daily?? That would be so annoying!

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The usual reply is either "don't cut your springs, get lowered springs" or "it's too low if your springs are no longer held captive by your shock". The car will easily go low enough to tuck tires and what not, but you will get bump steer, which isn't cool. This can be fixed by roll-centre adjusters, but as far as I know you cannot get them to suit KE30 struts, maybe T3 do them? Also you need to consider that lowering your car shortens the amount of travel in your suspension, a stiffer spring rate is usually used to compensate for the reduction in suspension travel to prevent your shocks bottoming out. Whereas if you cut your springs, you have less travel but retain close to the original spring rate, which could cause your shocks to bottom out and damage them as a result. If you decide to cut your springs, make sure you have enough travel. If you want to go really low, like tucking tires you should probably look into a strut or coilover upgrade, AE86 suspension is probably what you're after as there are alternative shocks you can fit in those struts that are shorter than original (this requires shortening the strut or doing a coilover conversion) eg ST185, SW20, AE92, any 43.5mm diameter shock really, and this will allow you to have a low ride height but still have usable suspension travel. Unfortunately there are no decent shock upgrades for KE30/KE70 struts. I understand you were after a qualitative answer, but I think it's more important that you do a little bit of research and understand why you can or cannot lower a car a certain amount, or get under your car and figure out how much you can lower it before you run out of travel or before it starts to have an effect on your suspension and steering geometry.

6 point FTMFW!

So it's just in the in-between stages? that's cool then, I thought it was just becoming another one of those fully sick KE70s, you know those rank unroadworthy ones, but that's cool that you plan to make it crispy again

I don't understand how it went from this: To this: Why!!

Is this even the same car? Also I saw your car at Harry on Thursday last week I think it was, looks cool bro Edit: the picture didn't come up in the quote, but it's the one with the quadlights and different plates

^not cool

You definitely do need ae86 steering arms, ke70 steering arms will not fit onto ae86 struts. You can use ae86 strut tops but they will alter your caster, ke70 strut tops are a better option, especially if they're already in your car. Camber tops from an ae86 will fit but I'm not sure what the go is there regarding caster. Redae71 are you getting confused with control arms or something? I know you know your stuff but I don't know what you're on about?

That is incredible. Thanks for posting!

I'm with Tom, it's super awesome at present, I couldn't imagine a visor making it any better than it already is.

Is it even plugged in?

Post some pics, KE10s rule! Also this will help your thread

Why do people say they're using a some kind of shock that sounds awesome but then never say what it is! I'm not having a go at you I'm just wondering, because I swear I always see people posting about shocks saying something like "oh get agx shocks, they fit well" and then not specifying what model it's out of or anything. Whyyyyyyyyyyy? Drop some knowledge people!

^^you can get led flashers i'm pretty sure, or fit the right size resistor

$5000 for a ke55?! It must be a neat car. If I had a 55 that was worth that much I'd be hanging on to it

The cartridges mentioned in here are all too short for an unmodified ae86 strut. Those "advanced strut tube spacers" seem like a genius idea, T3 should make them to suit more shocks. Also I should have said the dimensions I gave for SW20 shocks are for the rears, which seems to clash with what Dave said about his struts being 332mm. I've also got SW20 rears so I'll double check this, I wrote down the dimensions somewhere. Edit: KYB AGX SW20 (part no. 765016) rear shock cartridge is 360mm

I'm pretty sure Excel Gs are a standard stroke, aren't they're just meant to be a direct replacement for original shocks? In KYB AGX, st185 is probably the shortest you'll find that fits; the cartridge is 332mm, extended 490mm and compressed 346mm. SW20 cartridge is 360mm, 542mm extended and 370mm compressed. ae92 cartridges are the same size as st185 although are apparently a bit shorter than st185 when extended, but I'm not entirely sure of this. Hope that helps. And how are you going to be fitting these without making coilovers or shortening the strut or whatever, a spacer? Because I'm quite interested to know what people are using when the say they've "fitted a spacer", coins? bits of tube? something machined up?

I thought there was only one on the coil? So are you saying the condenser has to stay on the coil even with an electronic distributor?

So if I have changed to an electronic dizzy, there is no reason to keep the condenser on there right? But, does that also mean there is no point in taking it off?