rian

^lulz

So unbelievably jealous!

It's not the tie rod ends, it's the steering arms. People either replace the steering arms with shorter ones(power-steering arms) or shorten the existing steering arms. When you turn, the tie rod ends travel in an arc, with the centre being the ball joint in the lower control arm, and the radius being the length of the steering arm. If you shorten the steering arm, you reduce the radius, but the length of the arc remains constant(as the steering rack still pushes/pulls the tie rods the same distance), therefore the angle at the centre of the arc must increase, which is your steering angle. eg. if the radius [r] = 200mm (steering arm) and the arc length = 400mm (distance the tie rod end is pushed by the steering rack) and the angle at the centre = θ (in radians)(the angle at the LCA ball joint between the steering arm in it's 'full lock to the left' position and 'full lock to the right' position) s = θr is the equation for the arc length. 400 = θ x 200 θ = 400 / 200 θ = 2 radians (which is like 120 degrees of steering from lock to lock) if you reduce the steering arm [r] to say 100mm s = θr 400 = θ x 100 θ = 400 / 100 θ = 4 radians (which is like 220 degrees of steering from lock to lock lol) The values are a bit extreme, but you can see how you would get more steering lock by reducing the steering arm length If your original lock to lock steering angle was 2 radians (120 degrees) and your new lock to lock angle with the 100mm steering arms is 4 radians (220 degrees), to achieve the original lock to lock angle with the new 100mm steering arms; s = 2 radians x 100mm s = 200mm Therefore the rack only has to move 200mm with the new steering arms to achieve the original amount of steering angle, as opposed to 400mm with the original steering arms, which means you turn the wheel half the amount of turns as you originally did, which = awesome

You're so ahead of the game! This will be too cool

This^ +fixie bikes Although I spend more money on jackets and jeans than I do on my car... but I get so annoyed when people call me a hipster! Fuuuuuu! Do it!

Stickers can be cool, but paint ≥ stickers Unless it's interior, then standard ≥ stickers IMO anyway.

Try the Tridon website. I'm pretty sure you can get those parts through them, like plugs and switches etc

dayumm

Love it! I want something like this so bad

Look for the oil breather hose thingy at the back of the carb somewhere that connects to the top of the rocker cover, it's about 10mm thick, it needs to be connected or blocked off for the engine to run. You would have had to disconnect it when you took the rocker cover off, maybe you didn't put it back on?

XD up to AU apparently. From what I can remember of my friends car; they were pretty stiff and super bouncy with standard shocks. I can imagine it would get fairly annoying after a while too. Maybe get some aftermarket springs to suit a KE70? That way you can choose your spring rate and length, they are fairly cheap too. Edit: this is for the rear of your KE70 right? Because I'm not sure what fits in the front.

I'm pretty sure that's the price per wheel, and if so, I'd say that's out of the budget of 99.999% of us. You could almost get 2 sets of Rotas for the price of 1 Hayashi wheel... I wish Rota would hurry up and start making an original wheel in good sizes.

Find some AE86 struts to do a coilover conversion on. There is a better range of shocks available so suit AE86 struts, with the option to cut the strut down to fit shorter shocks.

There's a bridge at my house, I can get rid of it for you... :jamie:

WGMG: AE71s and KE70s for sale are plentiful when you don't have the dough to buy one, but when you do have the dough they pull out the active camouflage and you cannot find those mofos anywhere! Or they pop up for sale in Victoria just to tease you :o

I'm fairly sure the squeal is due to vibration of the brake pad. I guess there are lots of things that could cause it to vibrate like a rough surface on the disc or a worn bush in your suspension or something. You could try that stuff from Repco and Supercheap called 'disc brake quiet' that goes on the back of your brake pads to stop the vibration, I've never used it so I don't know how well it works but it may be worth a try. Edit: This is the stuff - http://www.crcind.com.au/disc-brake-quiet

Selling it to me may fix the problem... Otherwise you could try taking it to an auto electrician?

You could bolt the S13 suspension gear to the KE70 cross member with minor mods yes? And avoid the +1000000mm track increase you get when you put a S13 cross member into a KE70? I'm fairly sure Lloyd's car had a stack of other custom mods to make the S13 suspension stuff work properly, it seemed like a huge job. But it also seemed to work amazingly, or maybe he's just an amazing drifter :hmm: Edit: Or is it the S13 LCA that give you the humongous track increase?

^Word. I got stainless ones from a fasteners place and you can hardly tell the difference against the chrome.

The dome-top ones with the square bit on the shank? Any bolt place should have those, they probably won't be chromed but they will still be shiny. Edit: I think they're called carriage bolts

Watanabes are possibly the coolest wheels for a KE70, but they're also worth 3 times as much as the average KE70. I'd be hunting some second hand wheels, just about any wheel in 13,14,15 by about 8" with a low offset will look good, SSR, Work, Volk etc. Or if you want something new you can look into Performance Superlites or Challangers. Also Rota are making some copies of classic wheels in really good sizes for cheap, though a lot of people hate on Rota. I wouldn't care though, I would still own Rota wheels.

I'm fairly sure KE3x strut tops have the bolts equidistant from the centre, like an equilateral triangle. Whereas with KE70 strut top all the bolts are different distances from the centre, like an scalene triangle, where the bearing in the strut top is offset towards the rear of the triangle. AE86 strut top are the same bolt pattern as KE70, but the bearing in the strut top is offset towards the front of the triangle. Thus KE70/AE86 strut tops won't fit and you'll have to use the standard KE3x ones. Also I'm not sure you can put the KE36 brakes on the AE86 struts, I don't think they will fit?

What is the return policy with Force Tools, I know they have a lifetime warranty on most of their stuff, but do they just replace broken tools on the spot or do they have a rep who decides whether or not it gets replace or whatever? I hear this is a problem with a lot of other brands. Although I wouldn't really be all that bothered if I broke any of my Force tools because they're so cheap anyway, $20 ratchets FTW!