rian

Dude forget the car, study for your exams!

lol!

New T3 coilover sleeves, needle bearing upper hats, 5kg/mm springs, camber plates, steering arms and roll center adjusters are on their way. I'll be selling my current coilover setup soon if anyone is interested: SW20 KYB AGX adjustable inserts, Otomoto(I think) coilover sleeve, King Spring 8kg/mm 200mm springs with helper spring, AJPS roll centre adjusters, AE86 power steering arms, ADM rotors + calipers, all on shortened AE86 struts. It's complete and ready to bolt in :cool:

WGMG: When people call their standard 4K KE70 with chopped springs a "drift beast". :rant:

^They're sitting in my garage right now, soon to be coilovers. I pulled them apart to find they had Koni adjustables in them, then found out those model of Konis are $498 EACH from Supercheap Auto! :blinks:

Make a jump and hit it in your bush basher! And take pics :y: Like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sADjBsTp0wE

Are you are looking for stainless steel braided brake lines? HEL Brake Lines may stock them. If not they can make custom lines, you just need to provide your specs. This is the number for HEL in Brisbane, I'm not sure where you are but they will post them to you: 075 444 4784

That's real talk, why do we even have 5cent coins? I usually throw mine out. I've almost completely stopped bothering with actual money, I pretty much pay for everything with eftpos. If they don't have eftpos I just go somewhere else, bugger getting money out at the atm when it cost $2.50 every time.

On the picture above, the length of the red threaded section is the amount of height adjustment you will have. Though it is not all usable; the amount you can adjust the height depends on the amount of travel the shock absorber has. For example, if you were to install these in your car, and the springs compressed 50mm under the weight of the car, you just lost 50mm in which the suspension can compress before the shock bottoms out, but gained 50mm in which the suspension can extend before the shock absorber is at full extension. Now if you can imagine the coilovers in the picture above but with a 50mm shorter spring due to the weight of the car, you would probably have the ability to lower the car(by the amount of threaded sleeve that is under the gold spring perch) by more than the distance the shock absorber can compress, and thus your suspension no longer has the ability to compress as the shock would be bottoming out. I guess what I'm getting at here is, the more you lower the spring perch(to lower the car), the more suspension travel you lose in the way of compression. The more you raise the spring perch, the more suspension travel you lose in the way of extension. So the spring perch may offer a large range of height adjustment, but all that adjustment is no good if the shock absorber cannot function in parts of that range. So the amount of adjustment you have will depend on how the coilovers were made: the length and travel of the shock absorber, where the threaded sleeve was welded onto the strut tube, the length and rate of the spring etc. It's hard to say without seeing the coilovers or knowing the dimensions. I'd estimate around 3 or 4 inches height adjustment that will still provide sufficient suspension travel?? Edit: does that even make sense? :blinks:

lol goodluck finding it. Though I guess now is the perfect time for you to do the conversion as you don't need the car anyway, no license right? Have you got a build thread or are you going to start one for your car? That would be great if you could ask about those corollas. But if you don't get the opportunity then don't worry about it, I'm going to try and be patient and just wait for the right one to pop up :ninja:

Thanks Ella and Redwarf for the help. Had a thermodynamics exam today... zomg I hate thermodynamics! :down:

Steering arms and steering knuckles are the same thing, just different names. Crowie I think you may have tie rod ends confused with steering arms? As far as I know, KE30 until KE70 steering arms are interchangeable. So you shouldn't have any problems putting KE70 coilover struts into your KE55, providing you use KE55 camber plates/tops. KE30-KE70 and AE86 steering arms are definitely different, I have tried fitting KE70 steering arms to AE86 struts and it does not work. So if the coilovers you are looking at are AE86, you will need AE86 steering arms, hubs and brakes. The only way AE86 struts are similar to KE70 struts is that they are both of the MacPherson strut type, there are no common components between the two(other than nuts and bolts).

I think you should first find out if they are in fact KE70 coilovers, or the more common AE86 coilovers. Hardly anyone builds coilovers out of KE70 struts, most people will build coilovers out of AE86 struts(or buy brand new coilovers) and put them into a KE70. So the coilovers may have come out of a KE70, but there is a possibility they are not KE70 coilovers. If they are not KE70 coilovers, in contrast to what Crowie55 said, you will need to use the steering arm to suit the strut the coilover is built on. AE86s have different steering arms to KE70s so KE70 steering arms will not fit AE86 struts, likewise with hubs and brake components, therefore you will need the hubs and brakes to suit the coilover strut. If the coilovers come complete with brakes and steering arms you would be fine to put them straight in using your KE55 camber tops. If they are KE70 coilovers then you should be fine to do what Crowie55 and Phil86 have said.

The Wonder Years rule!

But wouldn't the guy doing the roadworthy certificate want to see the engineer's certificate before he passed it? And I've heard that when the police pull you up they will want to see the engineer's certificate as well. Also thanks heaps for the advice! This KE70 that I just looked at was neither mechanically nor physically sound, it was just dodgy. But now if I buy a car that needs panel work I'll know who to speak to. Thanks man

That would be cool if you could do that Will, though I would only buy a stocko KE70 if it was cheap or really neat. I've been trying to buy an AE71 or ?E7? already converted to 4AGE and save myself all the hassle and money, but it's proving difficult.

Turns out it had a 20v and was super quick, but it was rank. It had a pretty dodgy install, was rusted out and had some shitty mods. Was mod plated though. Also, can someone please clear this up for me: If you want to register a car in QLD with an engine/gearbox substitution, the car must: a) have a mod plate b) have the engineers certificate to accompany the mod plate c) obtain a safety certificate Is this true and is there anything else required, other than CTP or whatever? The guy who was showing me his car today was trying to tell me I didn't need an engineer's certificate, and that just the mod plate was required to get it through rego. He had a seedy moustache though so I don't trust him lol

Shit's legit! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mgFdn4lfrE

Going to look at another *E7* tomorrow, this one has a 4AGE. I bet it's totally rusty though. I never realised how neat my blue KE70 was until I started looking to buy another one. People try and sell some seriously crummy, overpriced cars.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rz31VhUEoA

What's the reasoning behind not being able to put it on 4 stands? How different would it be to when a car gets lifted on one of those hoist things at a shop? I think having it on the stands would be fine, but getting it onto the stands could be sketchy i.e if you were doing it on an uneven sloping dirt surface :glare: lol

Are you sure that's all that's bent? 50km/h to 0km/h in like zero time would have put a huge force on parts of your car. I once hit a gutter sideways at about 10km/h and bent heaps of stuff, hitting one at 50 would be wild.

There's a few ideas here, some of the pictures don't work though.

It looks weird, like a 4WD wheel arch or something? And maybe I'm wrong, but it doesn't look like it's going to help with the fitment issue as the tyre will still make contact with the original part of the fender. Unless you are trimming the original fender to position the new fender lip higher up on the panel?