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rian

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Everything posted by rian

  1. This^. Dark/plain colours ftw!
  2. Jealous! I'd love something that new, I really want a yaris, they're damn cool!
  3. The distributor in ^that link says it's for a 4k or 5k, but the 4k distributors have different advance curves to 5k distributors. Altezzaclub made a thread about it, click. Try and find a 4k electronic distributor, it'll be cheaper and work better than the one in that link. I had a 5k electronic distributor that looked exactly like the one in that link in my 4k and it sucked.
  4. Evan how does your 5k electronic distributor go? My 5k electronic distributor was the biggest waist of time, 4k-u Nippondenso electonic one goes way way better. What I was getting at before was the 4k points distributors are Bosch (as far as I know?) and these Hot-Spark kits are for Nippondenso points distributors. So I don't think you could fit the Hot-Spark to a 4k points distributor, and if you could, would it be any different from a Nippondenso 4k-u electronic distributor?
  5. ^ Also keen to know, I just used a 'T' piece to split the vacuum line to both ports. In the pics there are two vacuum lines to the electronic distributor, the stock setup only has one vacuum line, where do I run the second vacuum line from, and which port should it correspond to on the vacuum advance?
  6. I recently wired up a 4K electronic distributor and external ignitor. Anyone doing this conversion make sure you don't mount your ignitor too close to your coil as it messes with your tachometer and gives it an incorrect reading. I'm guessing the magnetic field from the ignitor or something effects the current(or voltage?) in the wire that connects the coil to the tachometer. I really couldn't figure it out, I just know that mounting it too close stuffs it up, which was a huge pain in the butt when I had to rewire it all to move the ignitor away.
  7. The switch may be the idle circuit solenoid thingy? Also have you checked it's not a spark issue, those ballast resistors seem to cause a lot of problems. It could be anything really, I've even had problems like this that have just been caused by the wires from the distributor being too close to the main coil lead and suffering form some sort of electromagnetic interference or something. Just start checking stuff like that and maybe replace some of the cheaper components like plugs, leads, condensers, points, ballast resistors etc, they're probably due for a change anyway. Just start eliminating possibilities really. And I think you should reconnect your vacuum lines, there's a diagram on the underside of your bonnet that shows where they all should go. Good luck with it, post up the problem when you find it. :y:
  8. This is cool, I like it. The RT104 quads look really good, though KE70 quads look just that little bit better and I can't figure out why. I think these sit in a bit further than the KE70 quads. But still, with these you get that same look and save $500! Cool car man. For some reason I really like the look of KE70s with no front bumper, does anybody else get that?
  9. That Hot-Spark system only seems to work with Nippondenso points distributors, I thought all the Nippondenso distributors in Australian corollas were electronic and that the Bosch distributors were points? Is there any advantage of the Hot-Spark system over a normal electronic distributor, or are they basically the same technology?
  10. More pics!
  11. Good incentive to find a job. Someone will be happy to buy your half-converted rolla for two loaves of bread and a slab of beers in two months. I lolled. Altezzaclub always has the best advice :y: .
  12. Doesn't sound right, the coolant and water mixture in your engine boils at around 107 degrees C.
  13. ^^^This Damn cats!
  14. The "Buy It Now" price is $4000, sounds reasonable... syke! Although I would probably pay close to $2500 for a really good condition original AE71, it would have to be really good though. Edit: dbr11k beat me to it^^
  15. Does this mean it's possible to have a T50 short shifter or T50 shifter rebuild kit in a K50?
  16. What a pain in the butt! I hope you have a better run with the new engine. Cool car by the way. I really want to do the 4AGE conversion, and it was looking like such a viable idea until I saw this thread haha
  17. Just bought some second hand AE86 brake calipers. Were advertised as "...includes braided brake lines", when I got them; no braided brake lines and no caliper clip thingies. Why can't people advertise their shit properly?

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. rian

      rian

      It's good to know you can actually buy them, that was going to be the first place I tried but I've just been lazy you know. Thanks man

    3. rian

      rian

      Repco couldn't get them

    4. B.L.Z.BUB

      B.L.Z.BUB

      because people are wankers, but even if you advertise properly people still bitch.

       

  18. That sucks man, did you have insurance for the parts lost in transit? By the way this is going to be the coolest car :y:
  19. Beams KE10 = Car of the Year This is awesome, well done.
  20. No brands make adjustable coilovers to suit AE71/KE70, most people convert to AE86 struts, and then convert those struts to adjustable coilovers with a weld-on threaded coilover sleeve from someone like AJPS or Otomoto, this also allows you to shorten the strut casing to fit a better shock from a different car, eg MR2, Celica etc. Or you can just buy brand name AE86 coilovers (BC, HSD, Greddy etc), in both cases you'll need AE86 hubs, rotors, calipers and steering arms to suit the AE86 struts, as the AE71 gear isn't compatible. Just google it, there is so much info on this topic that you will want to read.
  21. 8kg front and 6kg rear sucks for driving on the street, I think around 6kg front and 4kg rear would be nice. I agree with KENut, look into a strut upgrade and consider modifying a set of struts to fit a good shock. Everyone always recommends Bilstein :wink: Don't the BC coilovers run 8kg front/6kg rear spring rates anyway? I've read they're good, and I've also read they suck, but I haven't seen any effective comparisons, not that I would fully understand anyway...
  22. Post some pics of your corona, it sounds cool! And also hello
  23. If your rear left wheel isn't scrubbing I don't see why you would need an adjustable panhard rod. And I think it depends which series T18 you have as to whether the strut brace would fit or not, someone may know?
  24. Have you got any pics? Sounds interesting...
  25. I used to get over 600km out of a tank with a 4K and K50 5-speed, autos just suck. Make a hydrolysis tank and feed it into your air intake so it runs on hydrogen and petrol, I've seen engines with them installed and I've heard it makes a good improvement in fuel economy, and I've heard of engines almost running entirely off of crummy home-made hydrolysis tank thingies. If you can be bothered it might be worth looking into.
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