rian

What does a condenser actually do? I'm guessing it has something to do with the points?

This thread rules! I'd say you will never successfully have a road legal and drift-able ke30 whilst on your P's, you can't get the power without a different engine and you can't get a different engine until you have your open license. Why even try? get a fully sick nee-san, keep the 30 neat and rep it for a daily. Also, is drifting really that cool??

http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1856&pid=10720&mode=threaded&start= This seems to be a pretty good solution to crummy corolla headlights

http://www.willtheyfit.com/ this is really handy, then you can go and measure it all up and see if the wheels you want will fit

Did you check the timing with a timing light? It won't rev very well if the timing is too far out.

Me too, the engine starts but then dies as soon as you let go of the key. Something to do with the power to the coil bypassing the ballast resistor when the starter motor is cranking over, but then when you let go of the key the circuit swaps back and the power then has to pass through the ballast resistor to get to the coil, or something like that. Check the connections to the ballast resistor, I'm pretty sure oil is an electrical insulator so if oil went everywhere in your engine bay it may be stuffing up the connections, but usually it's just because they're corroded or something.

I'm with blz, I'd sell the 17s and buy some different size and/or offset wheels. Then you can get your car lower :y:. But it's up to you really, I guess it depends how much the wheel was fouling on the strut as to what you could do to fix it, you could try spacers or I recall hearing about a certain toyota strut that has a different angle between the stub axle and the strut body( I don't know what this angle is called, I'm not even sure if it would be helpful at all and I'm not sure what the strut was out of, but someone might know what I'm talking about and could point out if this different angle would change anything), that might give you a bit more room to get the wheel in there, but you'd get positive camber or something. But it would depend how much more room the wheel needed before it cleared the strut. Does that even make sense? And i don't think Jimmy-D was having a crack at you, to me he sounds like he's supporting your idea of having a go at getting the ford strut in there

Google it man, you'll probably have to adapt some from an ae92 or make your own or something

the website says between 33% and 50% coolant? Maybe we're referring to different products? http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Long_Life_Concentrated_Coolant/

make sure you use deionised water too, and I thought you mixed it anywhere between 30-50% coolant with 70-50% water respectively?

I've only been into cars for a little while so my opinion probably doesn't really matter here, but anyway I've been using Force tools, they seem good and come with a lifetime warranty but the main thing is that they are about a third of the price of something like snap-on. When you think about it, the price of a tool and the difference in price between brands of tools may seem large initially, but the way I justify spending heaps of money on tools is to think about how many hours of use you will likely get out of a tool, and what you will be able to accomplish with that tool, then you can consider the cost of the tool against the amount of time you will have it, or the time you will spend using it. I think if you could compare the cost of a tool divided by the hours of usage you would get from that tool, and did this for different brands, the price differences between the brands would become minimal. Therefor it wouldn't matter too much what you bought as long as you were happy with it, because I'd say it's likely that with all the top of the line tools, you are going to lose them before you break them, unless you're super tidy and organised with your tools and don't leave them in your engine bay after working on your car and then go for a drive :bash: and unless you're a mechanic and use them every day an are actually likely to wear them out. That's just how I think about it anyway.

AE86 coilover conversion is probably the easiest, bolts straight into a KE70 with the use of AE86 steering arms (need AE86 hubs and brakes as well), so I couldn't imagine it would be that much harder to put them into a ke30. I've got AE86 gear in my KE, next time I come back home have look it, test it out and see if it's what you want. And Jake wouldn't 86 PS arms be shorter than KE30 ones, not longer?

:y: you rule

5 stud? have you seen the challengers and superlites that performance wheels make, they are super cool

^^ best reply ever

Likes: it's so small and fun and blue Dislikes: clonky, slow and has now been crashed into

Posting this up here for a friend, it's a pretty cool car, pretty much standard except for a sunroof and a bigger exhaust I think. It may have been lowered but I can't remember. Has a little bit of rust in a few areas from memory but how many cars this age don't have rust. Here's the add copy and pasted from boostcrusing: Item Summary: 1979 DATSUN 1200, yellow datsun ute, rebuilt 1.2L runs like a dream Location: QLD: Brisbane Postcode: 4014 Odometre: 52,800 kilometres Asking Price: $3,500 Condition: Used Reason for Selling: need a five seater. Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: 0411053915 Extra Information: this datto comes with a spare datto that is available by pickup... both cars run however the datto that is for spares needs too much work to ever merit registration. the yellow datto for sale has minor cosmetic damage from parking lot. quoted at $1100 to repair as the drivers side door needs repainting. price is negotiable and i have no interest in swaps. pics will be uploaded asap. vin number etc can be supplied by request As said above as soon as the owner gets some pics I'll put them up here. Any questions just call the number above. Thanks guys.

Nerd>Bogan Nerds rule!

Sorry I should have said I know very little about painting haha, but I do know that supercheap auto equipment isn't very good quality. They do sell some good stuff but their cheaper "SCA" or "Best Buys" stuff is usually junk. I'm sure someone with the know-how will post up soon and tell you what is best or what they are using at home/work, I'm also interested as I wouldn't mind getting a compressor one day soon.

I understand you want to do it cheaply but if I was buying all this stuff to paint my car I would buy something other than SCA gear that didn't end up in the bin after I used it, otherwise you spend lots of money getting equipment that is (like thatdude said) now broken or going to break when you could have used that money paying someone to do it. And you end up with a crummy paint job and some broken or poor quality gear that you probably wouldn't want to use again because it sucks. Or you could buy awesome gear, and as you already know how to paint, have cheap, awesome paint jobs on all the cars you are yet to own, and just be an awesome guy in general :y:

"bit of panel damage to the left hand well quite a bit, are they the same from sedan to the panel van?" A standard KE70 sedan either slant or flat front will have different guards, but I'm fairly sure T18 or the DX(I think?) model of KE70 guards are the same. Maybe someone else on here will be able to confirm this.

Altezzaclub I have the same dizzy as you in a 4kc and it seems really sluggish under about 3000rpm, seems to go alright above 3000rpm though. It's seriously annoying when you try to accelerate up a hill, even in the lower gears it struggles to gain any speed on a slope. The timing is at about 10deg and I'm pretty sure the old points dizzy was also at about 10deg as well but just felt like it went faster. I've never been able to do the same speed over hills as I used to when it had the old points dizzy :(

Why don't you go into repco/supercheap/autobahn or whatever and see if you can get a brand spanker for a KE70? I know they can get them for other oldish cars so you should be able to get one for a KE70 as it was probably one of the most popular cars of it's time.

Could it be something to do with the pitman arm? A friend of mine had sloppy steering and from memory it was something to do with the pitman arm, like a worn bush or something. I can't remember it very well though sorry.

I rev my car out heaps but still can't keep up with traffic...