cheers for your help on that mate, i'll look into it and see what i can do.

 

Josh

hey mad rolla where did you get your copper head gasket from?

 

 

Ill check for you when i get home

Hi,

4agze I believe have a different stroke YES. But your using there pistons so same bore so no problem but the 100Kw 4age has the right length rods and standard handle power and rev hard so no problems there mate.

 

Also gudgeon pin in 5K i believe is 18mm 4agze pistons 20mm so for easier build use 4age rods as standard ones will need tinkering to get them to meet up. Also 4agze pistons gudgeon pin is closer to the top of the piston so there you could say less top heavy so will rev harder and not as much free weight slapping around in the bore the weight is lower and can move better so Id use Toyota gear so 4agze pistons 4age 100KW version rods EASY..lol

 

Cameron

 

Cam, The 1st Gen bigport 4age has an 18mm gudgeon and a 40mm bigend, All the other G/Z/E's (inc. 2nd gen BP, All SP & 20v) have a 20mm gudgeon and a 42mm bigend, How big does the bigend have to be on the K motor?

All of the above seems a hell of a lot of work when my 5k running a standard bottom end will (and has for a number of years) to 8000rpm, usually averaging 7000rpm.

 

Easiest way is to go to a decent engine machinist eg. M & W in Ballarat, and ask them.

That's right, a stock 5k bottom end is good for 8 grand. If you want to go further or want extra reliability balance the bottom end and lighten and shotpeen the original rods.

 

Just use the stock 5k head, and get it ported by someone with a flowbench. Skim it to get your desired compression ratio.

 

The 3k bigport heads have a crap valve stem sealing arangement.... O-rings under the top spring retainers. With them you need to upgrade to later valves and guides = extra $$$$

 

The only time the bigport heads are of any real value (on a dished piston 5k) is if you want to decompress the engine.

 

You would probably find once you start rooting around with head changes, valve gear, different rods and pistons etc. that you would simply be better off doing a conversion to a 4age or something for the money spent.

Edited March 15, 200719 yr by Felix

......and don't let anyone talk you into changing to solid lifters, it isn't necessary.

I just got my 5K today. :D So this is going to help me a fair bit.

 

Anyway, does anyone have any cam regrind specs that they wish to divulge?

Edited March 15, 200719 yr by Raven

mines ground to a Wade 169 grind from memory (lost the actual specs :yes: ). They are on here somewhere

 

did a qick search of the wade web site and found this....

 

 

Profile No Lobe Lift Timing Ad Duration Valve Valve Lobe

Open Close @.050 Clr Lift Sep

 

169 Ex .268 75-36 218 .008 .395 109

In .269 41-70 218 .008 .394

 

Needs comp, twin carbs

 

he above specs are from their cataloge under triumph, may not be exactly my cam (these are for a solid mines a hydrolic)

 

 

did a search of another site and found my specs :D

the specs are:

Lift (at lobe) - 0.269"

Ex opens - 75deg closes 36deg

Inlet opens - 41deg closes 70deg

 

so its the same as above, gives a good power range. Will rev but wont bog down low.

Edited March 15, 200719 yr by coln72

Niceeeeeee. I think I might stick with hydraulic. I have a pair of DHLA dellortos, just have to get a manifold, ram tubes and filter socks and will skim the head to bump up compression. :P

 

Cheers for that Colin.

 

Have you had it dynoed at all?

Thanks for your help guys, OldManRolla says that he shaves 100 thou of his heads straight away to get the comp up might give this a go with a set of 3mm dished pistons to see what comp i can get.

Cheers

Tighe 113 FTW, in a street driven engine.

 

Following is a Dyno2000 prediction of Wade169 vs Tighe113. Carb airflow is for 40mm dellortos with 36mm chokes. Everything is identical except the CR. Stock valve size with pocket porting.

 

Note Tighe 113 has 9.5:1 CR, the Wade 169 needed 11:1.

Have you had it dynoed at all?

 

Nah, shes basically a stocker $100 5k with carbs (freebies), cam and exhaust.

 

Don't know about the dyno program, but she was competitive with most of the other rolla's (including 2tg's and 4age's) we come across and a large number of datsuns and escorts as well.

 

Shit, I must be good enough behind the wheel to make up for 1.5:1 CR loss :P

Edited March 16, 200719 yr by coln72

Nice nice. Dyno2000 says 135HP hey.....

 

Can't wait till i get my dellorto's on and the motor in the car (once the car is restored) :P

Hey just wondering what cam you guys can recommend for my monster 3K?

I want to make power and I don't care how high I have to rev it to make it. I am building for a bottom end that will happily take 10,000 RPM.

Hey felix was that RW HP or at the flywheel. Either way very impressive for. Was it a 4 0r 5k

 

Josh