Jump to content

The Usual 4age Into Ke55


olskool

Recommended Posts

If your radiator core is in pretty good nic, I wouldn't be too worried about an expensive alloy core one. There's been CA18DET motors run well on standard radiators. Just have a diversion pipe to get the feed to the other size, or have a radiator shop modify the outlet to the other side.

 

You want a radiator that'll keep your motor at the right temperature range for the internal tolerances to be correct. A massive 3 core alloy radiator might look shit hot, but keeping a motor icy cold isn't the best for engine life. You'll find that the thermostat will be opening and shutting constantly under normal driving trying to keep the engine warm.

 

Personally i'd spend the $500 on a nice set of shocks for the front end, or a brake upgrade.

 

 

 

Hey guys, just need some quick advice as to what radiator would be most suitable for my conversion. Thanks heaps for all the comments so far too. :sob:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Members dont see this ad
  • Replies 213
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, just need some quick advice as to what radiator would be most suitable for my conversion. Thanks heaps for all the comments so far too. :hmm:
I used a N13 pulsar radiator in my corolla which is a twin core radiator and it has two 10 inch davies craig fans on it, i have never had it over heat on me and it works real well. I had it pulled apart and cleaned properly for $80 and all up with the fans it cost me at least $250. I also purched a electronic fan controler which allows you to set the temp the fans will turn on at from the cabin and it also has a volt meter and an oil temp meter aswell, cost me $100 and it looks like a little turbo timer. Let me know if your interested and ill let you know were you can buy them. :sob:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Thanks for the advise on the radiator ideas guys. Anyway, again it has been a while since I last posted up on what I have done, but I have been progressing, but I have also begun to to do extra things that I never really planned to do.

 

To begin with I have made a stainless steel muffler for the car. It is a straight through muffler with a polised stainless 3.5" dump pipe, that took me about 3 hrs to polish like that. So here are some pics. And, also by making the muffler myself, I will most definitely have no issues in hitting the leaf spring or anything like that.

 

post-2171-1222482325_thumb.jpgpost-2171-1222482360_thumb.jpg

 

The next bit of really good news is that my diff is complete, shortened, I ended up going to 28spline axles(pretty much unbreakable for the N/A 4age) and a very tight brand new limo, brand new bearings, the whole lot ready to go. Very happy with the end product. I just gotta hurry up and finish the car so I can drive the car.

 

post-2171-1222482520_thumb.jpgpost-2171-1222482567_thumb.jpg

 

Anyway, this next thing is something I didn't plan to do but nevertheless will prove to be a worthwhile task. I have decided to partially notch a few sections to allow for better ride quality and suspension travel.

 

I cut out the brackets that the bump stops bolted onto.

post-2171-1222482638_thumb.jpg

 

This is where the bump stops sit standard.

post-2171-1222482675_thumb.jpg

 

This is the new bump stop bracket that I fabricated.

post-2171-1222482863_thumb.jpg

 

And this where the new position of the bump stops is going to be.

post-2171-1222482926_thumb.jpg

 

This has given a lot more clearance for the diff. The next part I will have to tackle is the rear section of the transmission tunnel. I will have to cut a section out and make a new part with extra clearance. So back to work I go. :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey man, conversion is awesome so fare, your a quality welder

 

just cruious with your diff, i assume its the standard 3.70 ratio? or did you change to pintara to get 4.1?

also is that tag custom? because mine says "spin resistant diff"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have two diffs. One from a skyline and one from a pintara. At the beginning of this thread there is a pic of the pintara diff where I chopped off all unnecessary brackets. The housing that you see now is still the pintara one, with the pintara 4.11 gear set, 28 spline limo and axles. Everything with those borg warners are pretty much interchangeable. That tag is standard ford falcon tag I think. I am not sure if it is custom.

Edited by olskool
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

So, its been a while but the amount of work I have got done, I am quite happy with. Here is a bit of an update. So the big job that I had ahead of me was to make some extra clearances for the diff.

 

Firstly I cut out the section which is right underneath the fuel tank to allow for extra room at the back of the diff centre housing. I welded in a new section that I rolled and it just leaves the perfect amount of room for the diff also without interfering with the fuel tank.

 

Here is the section I cut out.

post-2171-1225508455_thumb.jpgpost-2171-1225508574_thumb.jpg

 

And this is the job done and welded in. It may not look like it has given extra room but it most certainly has.

post-2171-1225508865_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-2171-1225509243_thumb.jpg

 

Once I finished that job I moved onto the next part. I only wanted to cut out the section of the transmission tunnel underneath the rear seat. This was the problem area as where the tailshaft bolted onto the diff is where it hit the floor. It only really hit when I got a decent bump on the road. BUT, I don't want it to happen at all. So out came this section too.

post-2171-1225509374_thumb.jpg

 

This is a structural part of the trans tunnel so I will have to modify it yet keep strength aswell.

post-2171-1225509529_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No more for the better.

post-2171-1225509763_thumb.jpgpost-2171-1225509872_thumb.jpg

 

This is the structural brace. It is also a bolt on section for the seat belts, so it must be retained.

post-2171-1225510052_thumb.jpg

 

ANd here is the new section welded in with extra clearance. The next best thing is that it does not interfere with the seat. The seat sits straight back on there with no hassles. Gotta love it when things run smoothly. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh and the underbody sound deadener smells when it is on fire. :)

post-2171-1225510296_thumb.jpgpost-2171-1225510409_thumb.jpg

 

All painted and looking pretty.

post-2171-1225510531_thumb.jpg

 

I will be putting new underbody sound deadener on all the bits that I have welded in, but that wont be untill I am completely finished all of this welding.

Anyway, there is more to come so I will keep you all updated as I do more.

Edited by olskool
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good thinking, why not. Nah, I wish. If I were to do that my car would never be finished. I must say though, that is part the problem why it isn't done. Every time I finish one thing, I check this and check that and find out I need to do this and do that. It is never ending.

 

Although I must say it is getting closer. At the moment my next job is to make some stainless steel you bolts for the diff and sort out the tailshaft. Is there a cruise in December. I am aiming to have it done for that if there is.

 

I just can't wait to drive it. :jamie:

Edited by olskool
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...