I hope this hasnt been covered before

I have had a few people pm about hydrolic clutch in ke30, so i thought i would answer publicly in case anyone else is doing this.

so i have taken some photos to help out.

 

Some poeple claim the ta22 pedals bolt in, but apparently not.

 

The photos mostly suck due to it still being in the car, but i tried.

 

I used a ta22 master cylinder.

 

The distance between the top pivot and where the cylinder pivots on is 64mm centre to centre.

 

The master cylinder bolts on to the factory location stamped on the firewall, although you have to drill it to finish the job

 

 

 

Under the dash

The pivot point for thr pedal had to be moved up a fair way from memory

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good Work and Nice pics. I'm about to convert my KE30 to Hydraulic, so this was a big help.

The 64mm Pivot point I assume (If i read correctly) is where the rod mounts to the actual clutch pedal?

What's the point of converting to a hydraulic clutch? Do you really need assistance pressing the clutch pedal? Mechanical linkages are so much simpler!

What's the point of converting to a hydraulic clutch? Do you really need assistance pressing the clutch pedal? Mechanical linkages are so much simpler!

Isnt it a necessary conversion for some gearboxes. Or at least a simpler option rather than fabricating linkages and cables?

I just assumed it was just a necessary evil.

What's the point of converting to a hydraulic clutch? Do you really need assistance pressing the clutch pedal? Mechanical linkages are so much simpler!

It is necessary if the gearbox you are converting to has a hydrolic clutch, it is not for pedal feel (although it has its advantages)

 

The 64mm Pivot point I assume (If i read correctly) is where the rod mounts to the actual clutch pedal?

 

Yep, thats what i was trying to say. :)

My KE55 has a Sprinter T50 but a mechanical linkage - maybe someone made up the linkages themself?

maybe someone made up the linkages themself?

 

True, i did look at that as an option when i did mine, we must have decided the hydrolic clutch won though i guess.

does that pushrod go on an angle towards the pedal?

 

About 10 years ago I did a conversion and I thought i had the pushrod come straight out and a long bolt went off to the RHS and attach to the pedal?

 

I can't remember.... :)

advantages:

self adjusting would be the big one

as would as having no play as fluid does not compress (unless air gets in the system)

also you can change the bore to give different amounts of force/travel

and you can twist and turn to any degree along fluid line

can exert a bigger force than a cable can

 

disadvantages

can be messy and leak when old

more expensive, more parts

needs to be bled occasionally

needs to be matched master and slave bore setup or close.

 

when people want to use another gearbox, some come with the hydraulic setup and so people have to convert to

either a mechanical or hydraulic system and most people go hydraulic it seems.

Edited October 25, 200718 yr by styler

does that pushrod go on an angle towards the pedal?

 

No, the pedal is directly in line with the cylinder.

Nice work, thanks for that much appreticated.

Cheers Shaun

Nice work, thanks for that much appreticated.

Cheers Shaun

 

 

i've got a ke36 aus manufactured by ami 11/74 build and my pedal box is different to this

odd

advantages:

self adjusting would be the big one

as would as having no play as fluid does not compress (unless air gets in the system)

 

Not totally self adjusting, as the rod should be adjusted to get the right feel, also they always must have some play, otherwise your clutch fork would be resting on the pressure plate fingers all the time, resulting in a busted pressure plate.

what about the fact that most late model gearbox conversion run hydrulic clutches standard it makes sense to do the conversion. Price wise its cheap 40 for a slave and 90 for a master 60 odd for a custom hose.

I have been tackling this myself for the passed 2 weeks.

 

The pivot point for the pedal is very close to the pivot point that the master cylinder rod will be secured to on the pedal. My question is how much throw is needed for the clutch to be engaged? From the looks of it the throw is going to be about 2.5cm