If you want it to look 1/2 decent, replace it with metal, don't bother mucking around with fibreglass..

but how do you get the round cuve of the guard?

1) It's best put somewhere within reach of the driver, while strapped in. I guess that isn't so important in a daily driver sort of car, but it's still best in the cabin somewhere. After all that's when you want to kill the power - when you crash and burn somewhere. You don't have to want to get out of the car and pop the bonnet...

I thought kill switches had to be mounted externally for competition with a sticker indicating the position? Or you could always mount 2 in a series.....

Unless you're doing serious round-and-round circuit work, this is not a requirement. Neither of my cars have the kill switch externally accessable....

fold the metal template to fit

Unless you're doing serious round-and-round circuit work, this is not a requirement. Neither of my cars have the kill switch externally accessable....

all drag cars under 11.99 i believe have to run a kill switch on the rear of the car (not that jasons gonna be breaking 11.99)

 

I still kinda fail to see the point of a killswitch in a daily

irokin: Generally, you'll need a killswitch inside the car within reach of the driver, and for more serious stuff (like circuit racing, targa events and I suppose if your car is very quick down the drag) you'll also need to be able to switch it off from outside, in case the driver is unable to turn it off himself. Most of the time people run a cable (like a bike brake cable) with a loop on the end to outside the car. This goes to the switch inside, so you still only need one switch. Then if you stack it and you can't turn it off, someone can come up to the car and pull the cable, which will turn the switch off.

 

Some cars do run two separate switches, some have a switch that can be electronically triggered (relay?) so there's a button on the outside of the car that trips it.

 

Lots of methods. For a daily, probably not required, but never a bad thing to have. The only thing to watch is if you have an external one, try to have a way to "disable" it or tuck it under the bonnet or something so that tom, dick and harry don't keep turning it off everytime you park your car somewhere...

Oh yeah, in general if there is an external kill switch, it'll be near the A-pillar, drivers side, I believe. It's in the CAMS manual, somewhere.

Edited January 30, 200521 yr by demuire

ANDRA regs :D

i got the switch because it was cheap and i was running the cables through the car any way so i said what the hell.

 

i got my boost gauge, shoes and pistons for the rear brakes today. Now to fit it all. didnt get the oil temo becuse i don't know the sender size

Edited January 30, 200521 yr by Jason

i got the switch because it was cheap and i was running the cables through the car any way so i said what the hell.

 

Exactly, it's a hell of a lot easier to get it right first time than to try to stuff around and install one later.

i replaced the cylinder on one of the brakes but when i was getting the shoes in the stuff from the cylinder popped out!!! Is it buggered ? :D

Should be ok. Usually held in with a circlip or something I think? Not sure.

Diff can almost go back in :D

 

BUT..... the axles bearings seem to have a lot of play. I have no clue at what is considered normal. How can i test if its still good or not?

Yeah - anyone know where u can get new bearing for axels on differentials? and who on earth could do them?

 

its better they are done now, then get it all back together and find out _ oh _ crap _ wtf is wrong lol